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Old 11-16-2004, 05:50 AM   #13501
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Default Re: Re: Mounting shell on R3

Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
You really should try out the New ALEX M6 Body then.... handles like the Proto Mazda...and also the Ride MKII Status.. since it kind of a blend of the 2 bodies and you will not have to worry about the Body posts being switched around..
-Dave
Hey DAve!

I wish i can try the New ALex M6 or the Ride's bodies...

In here, Sydney... The hobby shop dont import any of these brands bodies!!! The even dont have any Alex-racing car selling in here!!! The only choice I can get for car shell is either HPI, Protoform, Tamiya or Fewer.... which is not very suitable for my R3.....

so I guess... the only option is to use the Protom Doge Strut, since I dont need to change the position of the rear body mount, right!?
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Old 11-16-2004, 09:18 AM   #13502
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Most of the people that are doing this in Japan are doing this so they can run the rear shocks more vertical...that is the only benifit .. I can see from doing that mod

-Dave
yeah, notice that too...using the outer most hole available .
Hm, so non body roll related then? I thought that the whole concept of R3 chanelling the force to the center line of chassis got something to do with the whole mod thing....pressing down one of the bod post at rear tower did make the rear lean to that side compare to pressing to rear bulk head where mod mounting is .
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Old 11-16-2004, 04:44 PM   #13503
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Default Re: Re: Re: Mounting shell on R3

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Originally posted by chappi

So I guess... the only option is to use the Protom Dodge Stratus, since I dont need to change the position of the rear body mount, right!?
The 2.0 is a good safe body that works on all tracks
-Dave
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Old 11-17-2004, 12:59 AM   #13504
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Mounting shell on R3

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Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Man!! Lay off the rear toe in ... thats where your more than likley looseing your cornering speed.. try around 2.5 deg toe in in the rearand also on a side note what body are you running..?? it might be the body also... you really should have someone paint up a few new M6 bodies or a couple of Ride Accords


-Dave
Nice new one there .. I must try out the orange ones when they get here, then I can pickup some newe stuff

I'm running a Protofom Stratus (not 2.0) and that might have something to say to but currently I don't have other bodies
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Old 11-17-2004, 01:43 AM   #13505
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
I have yet to try the Rayspeed one.. but I have tried the EXCEL and Ride Accord and they are very nice.... needless to say I will not be using many Status bodies anymore... the Accord from Ride is very similar to the Rid MKII but with better turn in and mid to exit steering
-Dave
Have you tried or seen anyone use the Active Hobby Mazda Atenza body?
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Old 11-17-2004, 07:14 AM   #13506
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Default Other parts

Dave - and others

Does any other manufactor parts fit the Cuda ? I thinking CVD's, diff. outdrives and the like

HAVE ANY ONE had succes with 3'rd part products not meant for the Cuda ?

Thanks to all that reply's
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Old 11-17-2004, 07:31 AM   #13507
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Default Re: Other parts

So far I know Kyosho TF4/KX-One rear hubs fit and I am
pretty sure Yokomo MR4SD front axles are a direct fit.
Right now I am waiting on Yomoko to release the MIP CVD for
the MR4SD so I can try them on the Cuda.
Dave should know more since he has most of the touring cars
that are out to swap stuff around.

Quote:
Originally posted by stjerno
Dave - and others

Does any other manufactor parts fit the Cuda ? I thinking
CVD's, diff. outdrives and the like
HAVE ANY ONE had succes with 3'rd part products not meant
for the Cuda ?
Thanks to all that reply's
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Old 11-17-2004, 09:14 AM   #13508
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Default Re: Re: Other parts

Quote:
Originally posted by RcMonk
So far I know Kyosho TF4/KX-One rear hubs fit and I am
pretty sure Yokomo MR4SD front axles are a direct fit.
Right now I am waiting on Yomoko to release the MIP CVD for
the MR4SD so I can try them on the Cuda.
Dave should know more since he has most of the touring cars
that are out to swap stuff around.
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Old 11-17-2004, 01:35 PM   #13509
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Hey guys,

ran a car not a million miles away from what Kitazawa run, last weekend. Car really handled well, could have been better if I ran roll bars, but decided to try a non roll bar set up. Still awesome!!

One piece top deck was good and kept everything in place with no hint of a tweak.

Wonder if we are going full circle going back to a one piece top deck. Besides with the R3/Pal/Xenon drive there is not much requirement to change the spur gear anymore.....bullet proof or what!!!!

Dave, still no news on the chassis, but will know a bit more after this coming weekend
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Old 11-17-2004, 02:10 PM   #13510
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gazza_D
Hey guys,

ran a car not a million miles away from what Kitazawa run, last weekend. Car really handled well, could have been better if I ran roll bars, but decided to try a non roll bar set up. Still awesome!!

One piece top deck was good and kept everything in place with no hint of a tweak.

Wonder if we are going full circle going back to a one piece top deck. Besides with the R3/Pal/Xenon drive there is not much requirement to change the spur gear anymore.....bullet proof or what!!!!

Dave, still no news on the chassis, but will know a bit more after this coming weekend
I didn't see Kitazawas set up. Can you post for us?

Yes- one piece top deck is more solid... but... if you have to change the front one way to a diff for example you only need to remove the front top plate. The rear plate is untouched and so it doesn't mess up the rear droop or camber settings...
Besides, I can lock the two top plates pretty well without them tweaking. I guess there are pros and cons to either style though
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Old 11-17-2004, 02:17 PM   #13511
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Quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
I didn't see Kitazawas set up. Can you post for us?

Yes- one piece top deck is more solid... but... if you have to change the front one way to a diff for example you only need to remove the front top plate. The rear plate is untouched and so it doesn't mess up the rear droop or camber settings...
Besides, I can lock the two top plates pretty well without them tweaking. I guess there are pros and cons to either style though
Just currius Mike, how would removing the top plate mess up your droop ?? I ajust my drop with dropscrews on the arms ??

Besides, I run a "almost" stock R3 and I have yet to break a spur or for that matter a diff- or bevel gear guess they fix'd the R2's problem there just to introduce the steering problem with the new rack but the PAL rack cured that one
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Old 11-17-2004, 04:56 PM   #13512
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Moving the top plate moves the upper links which moves the camber. I measure droop from the axles and not the arms (a better guage of your droop setting) so when the camber changes so does your droop. Most people measure droop from the arms but what they don't realize is that they are getting a false reading because the tires contact the ground at different pressures if the camber is a little different from left to right even if the the arms are equal from left to right. Even when you have the camber guage the same left and right it's never exact. Hope that makes sense If not i can try and explain better a 2nd time
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Old 11-17-2004, 05:31 PM   #13513
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Quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
Hope that makes sense If not i can try and explain better a 2nd time
As Clear as Mudd Just kidding Mike
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Old 11-17-2004, 05:55 PM   #13514
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me can talk in good english
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Old 11-17-2004, 05:57 PM   #13515
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Quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
me can talk in good english
No no no EnGeRiSh
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