Lotus111

Hi Dave

Ive want to get my Shocktower even lower then on the Pictures shown on my Page, Problem is the Barracuda Shocks are to long , do you remember any shorter schocks on the Market?

Thanks

Roger

poop

iTrader: (27)

Thanks Dave!

i race on a high grip asphalt surface that is tight and technical using rubbers. I have the R3 black chassis with pal steering rack, aluminium shaft holders front and rear, center one way, two sets of offset balls, full sway bar kit. it's shimmed relatively good (can surely be better as it's not as free as your- spin for 15+ sec drivetrain) and it's quiet. i'm running a ko vfs1 speedie trying out a few profiles for 27T stock. there's nothing wrong with the acceleration of this car and it's top speed as i can see that it just accelerates like a bullet compared with others, it's the handling that letting me down
it really doesnt like rapid weight transfer as it'll swing the rear end around faster than anything!
my set up right now:

kit pistons with 35wt front 25wt rear
no stabilizer bars installed (yet)
1 deg camber all round
kit mount position of shock on arms and tower
0 toe front
2.5 toe in rear
5mm ride height F and R
kit springs (i have yokomo springs but still using kit ones)
camber links all on the outer most hole on top deck and on the bottom hole on the hubs
2mm droop all round

thanks mate!

- Karl.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

What! They think the Cuda doesn't work? Haha- good one, hope you show them all. Dave will get you a good set up

Long span arm is great for big flowing high speed tracks. Some people say the mid span car makes your car snapier which makes sense since on tight tracks the car feels like it pushes unless you mod the c-hubs to allow more steering throw. I would stick with matched front and rear lengths until you get very familier with the Cuda. There are a lot of reasons to use adjustable balls up front but the only 2 reasons i use them is that they are stronger and I can fine tune the freeness of the arm (sometimes you get an arm that sits too tight and so doesn't move up and down freely- twist the brass ball just slightly and it'll free up the arm)

BTW- What car did you used to drive?

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

What tires and inserts and how hot does the track get? Also what body?

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Ok I hope this picture of my R3 looks a little better. I now have all my hopups on and I have my shocks done with the Yoke caps.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

One with my newest body on.

poop

iTrader: (27)

Thanks for your reply mike,
I'm using sorex 28R and sorex A firm inserts. track doesnt get too hot because it's indoors.
cheers mate.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Ah ha- that's what i thought when you said high grip asphalt. Your tires are most likely overheating. We have a high grip indoor asphalt track here also. 30 seconds into my run with Sorex 32r tires my Cuda would start to break loose for I thought no reason. The temp indoors was 29 celsius (digital meter) so I thought it couldn't be the tires but after playing with my setups for awhile a friend clued me in by saying the high grip is generating too much heat in my tires- switch to 36r. Bingo- hooked up! (thanks SteveTech!)
Although that is what I think is the main problem for you, since this is a new car for you, there still may be other things to still sort out on your car. I would try 1mm less droop in back compared to the front, double and then triple check that the suspension moves freely with the shocks off, moving the front/top shock to the furthest out and running with no one-way until you are more familiar with the car.
Best,
Mike

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Disco is back! Car looks great. Looks like you finely got your alloy steering rack... watch out!

wyd

iTrader: (51)

I will try out that steering rack today for the first time. Once I get to the track today I will measure the rack and make sure it is perfectly centered and adjust anything else that might be off a tad.

poop

iTrader: (27)

Hi Mike,

i'm pretty sure it's not the tyres as all the other good racers are using this combo plus the car actually gets better as more heat get's into the tyres.

Dave,
any help you can throw my way to shut those guys up and beat them convincingly?

cheers.

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Now that I know what type of track surface... I can post a set up that is pretty easy to drive and has very good corner speed!!

-Dave

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

I can't argue with that

poop

iTrader: (27)

thanks Dave! looking forward to trying it out
would it be beneficial to go with pal or xenon hubs and then the drop down camber links? would this improve handling by a lot?

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Here ya go Poop

Front
Front One way
Oil AE 35W
1.2mm pistion
1.5x600 spring
Mid Span sus arm
Lower hole on c-hub(5deg)
Outermost hole on upper deck for camber link
shock on outer most hole on shock tower & 60% or inner hole on sus arm
toe 0deg @ wheels
Sus arm toe out (as much as you can get )you`ll need offset sus balls for this..the front a-arms when looking down at them should look like this \ /..as much as possible
Camber 1deg
4.5mm ride height
3.5mm rebound/droop
Steering Rack inner holes for linkage and short/fwd hole on knuckle

Rear
Rear Diff med~tight
Oil AE 30W
1.2mm pistion
1.5x700 spring
Mid Span sus arm
Upper hole on rear hub
Outermost hole on upper deck for camber link
Shock on outer most hole on shock tower & 70% or second hole in on sus arm
toe in 2.5 deg
camber 1.5 deg
4.8~5mm ride height
4.5mm rebound/droop

This set up can work with both mid span or long span sus arms..all you have to do is change the upper camber link mount from the outermost hole to the middle hole on the upper deck.. so if the track grip goes away switch to the long span

I also would recomend using a nutral body..AKA Dodge 2.0 and try to stick with a Med inner...Xenon Green or Xenon X-Black..and you should be on your way to having a very fast cornering easy driving Barracuda

Good Luck

-Dave