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Old 09-25-2004, 11:50 PM   #12766
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Default Shaft holders

Raving-monkey, do you have the aluminum shaft supports? If you don't then it is definately not recomended to use 64p spurs.
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Old 09-26-2004, 12:25 AM   #12767
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Quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
Same thing with the R2. The car just didn't have as much steering throw as my other cars and would seem to push on really slow tight tracks. I did have to dremel out the c blocks as WYD mentioned and it makes a world of difference for these types of tracks. The good thing now is I can dial it out with dual rate or dial it back in depending on how good or bad my set up may be.
Hi This might be worth a try......

The link that is on the steering knuckle try mounting it on the top instead of the bottom also mount it on the top of the 2 links in the wrack as well.You will hafto swap the ball studs round put the one on the knuckle on the inner link and the one on the inner link on the outer knuckle.This will give you a little bit more throw each side because then the link doesnt hit the wish bone stopping the throw.

Hope this helps
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Old 09-26-2004, 12:32 AM   #12768
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nick Simpson
Hi This might be worth a try......

The link that is on the steering knuckle try mounting it on the top instead of the bottom also mount it on the top of the 2 links in the wrack as well.You will hafto swap the ball studs round put the one on the knuckle on the inner link and the one on the inner link on the outer knuckle.This will give you a little bit more throw each side because then the link doesnt hit the wish bone stopping the throw.

Hope this helps
Sorry Also......

Try running the car with the ball stud in the upper hole the knuckle.By doing this it gave me a straighter steering lnik which made the steering feel more posative.
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Old 09-26-2004, 07:31 AM   #12769
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Default Re: Shaft holders

Quote:
Originally posted by psmart2
Raving-monkey, do you have the aluminum shaft supports? If you don't then it is definately not recomended to use 64p spurs.
This would really help keep the flex down to almost zero.
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Old 09-26-2004, 08:51 AM   #12770
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Default

hiya guys, i only use 48dp in my TCs, i use 64 in the 12th though.

i fitted a new spur this morning and went to another club today and i bet you can never guess what happened....who ever guesses right can have 4 free stripped spurs

first lap, first corner i clipped an apex and.....i dont need to tell you, you should know by now
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Old 09-26-2004, 09:42 AM   #12771
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Quote:
Originally posted by raving-monkey
hiya guys, i only use 48dp in my TCs, i use 64 in the 12th though.

i fitted a new spur this morning and went to another club today and i bet you can never guess what happened....who ever guesses right can have 4 free stripped spurs

first lap, first corner i clipped an apex and.....i dont need to tell you, you should know by now
raving-monkey,

If you're using the stock R2 motor mount and drivetrain system, then gear mesh and the entire assemblying of the center driveshaft and input gear would have to be perfect for it not to strip spur gears. This was probably the only flaw in the R2 drivetrain design (which is now fixed in the R3 with a new motor mount that has a bearing in the motor mount to support the center shaft). Right now, the R2 motor mount and the center shaft is two seperate unit, and due to the vibration of the shaft and the motor, the gears (spur and Pinion) will move close and away from each other as you run the car. Alloy center shaft holder will help with the problem (as it reduces the amount of vibraion with its precision over the stock nylon center shaft holder) A Speed Way Pal drive unit or a Xenon Racing drive unit will take care of this problem definitely.

Steve Wang
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Old 09-26-2004, 12:18 PM   #12772
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Default Melted diff...

went for outing on friday night.... and guess what??? melted my rear diff for the first time...

Well, I got it replaced and the my R2 is back to normal

Now, I wonder what can I do with the worn diff... got an idea to use it to make a spool... I tried to look few pages back but cant find the "how to".. I remember seeing it here quite sometimes ago...

Anybody have the link or source???
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Old 09-26-2004, 01:20 PM   #12773
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Default Re: Melted diff...

Quote:
Originally posted by Speed Demon
went for outing on friday night.... and guess what??? melted my rear diff for the first time...

Well, I got it replaced and the my R2 is back to normal

Now, I wonder what can I do with the worn diff... got an idea to use it to make a spool... I tried to look few pages back but cant find the "how to".. I remember seeing it here quite sometimes ago...

Anybody have the link or source???
I know how you feel

I have more broken diff halfs than working ones
Infact I've only got one complete diff, waiting on Steve to get more diff halfs in....
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Old 09-26-2004, 01:28 PM   #12774
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We found no problem with the delrin diff halves over here. Strange
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Old 09-26-2004, 01:37 PM   #12775
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Quote:
Originally posted by dhiracing.com
We found no problem with the delrin diff halves over here. Strange
most have broken from the upper hub screws coming out then the cvd gets pulled out and snaps the outdrive but I have had two diff halfs go when the diff ring starts spinning. Thats in about 18 months of cuda racing now though. One diff half was still usable as it the ring had only moved a bit, pushing up the delrin a bit which I trimmed and then glued the diff ring in place, that half has since snapped though
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Old 09-26-2004, 05:16 PM   #12776
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyd
MikeR nice to see you on here. Been a little since I saw you post. I think I will dremel mine out some as well even though at this time I don't need to but would be nice to have it done.
Hey you too. Thought you went away from the Cuda for awhile.

As far as the C hub- 1mm cut is all that's needed. A little goes a long way.

Once I went to the alloy carrier in back I haven't broken any diff halves. I always use the one-way so of coarse you can't break the front
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Old 09-26-2004, 05:21 PM   #12777
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Quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
Hey you too. Thought you went away from the Cuda for awhile.

As far as the C hub- 1mm cut is all that's needed. A little goes a long way.

Once I went to the alloy carrier in back I haven't broken any diff halves. I always use the one-way so of coarse you can't break the front
I was but only for a few weeks and I made a deal to get my new red Xenon R2 (wish i was blue. ) but I can deal with the color.
Just like the car and will make a much better go of this one. Potential is unlimited and the drivetrain is as free as they come.
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Old 09-26-2004, 10:51 PM   #12778
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Talking Back from the Orange factory

Hey guys..

I just finally got my R3 back from PAL...it`s now getting packed up and going off to BMI..so have a look at some of the pic`s

-Dave
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Old 09-26-2004, 10:52 PM   #12779
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Default Re: Back from the Orange factory

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Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Hey guys..

I just finally got my R3 back from PAL...it`s now getting packed up and going off to BMI..so have a look at some of the pic`s

-Dave
another shot
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Old 09-26-2004, 10:54 PM   #12780
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Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
another shot
Parts and such
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