dhiracing.com

One of my friends here in Malta, had an interesting idea about the steering system for the R3. He placed the steering rack above the main drive shaft, instead of at the bottom.

The operation was simple and he did not even make any big changes. He simply put the steering posts upside down, connected everything to the top instead of the bottom on the steering knuckles and shortened the servo linkage. Now the steering link is parallel to the rack (not at an acute angle as original), he has more throw than before and the whole system looks more stable and efficient

He tried it on the track and he had in effect more steering and stability, all this using the standard R3 steering rack. I will try to post a picture here as soon as possible

rcsabah

yah in my place they put it the other way too. it's smoother and don't have to worried the main shaft..

poop

iTrader: (27)

wow! i'm sure to give this a try and hope it works well for me. I was just about to post a "HELP!!!!!" subject because my r3 has bugger all steering put side by side to other cars and all with full lock steering, you can see that the wheels are only turning half as much as other cars even with a pal steering rack

wyd

iTrader: (51)

I think that somea re dremeling their steering blocks a bit to get a little more steering throw but if your having to go from lock to lock toget steering then the setup is more than likely not as good as it could be. You should never have to use 100% of you steering travel to make the car turn.

rcsabah

if so that's mean have to set the car slightly loss at the rear?? won't it overheat the tyres?

racer

is this the new car Dave is referring to?



oops, nevermind...

pumpkinfish

iTrader: (4)

Is there an easier way to get the bones out of the diffs when I want to adjust the tightness/looseness on the diff? When I was testing setups, I had to take off the rear arm, the camber link and the shock so I could get the bone to slip out of the diff. I really do not like how the Cuda diffs have the captured outdrives compared to the open outdrives of my Xray. If I was to cut the delrin to make them open, will that compromise the diff under power?

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

I just take the wheel off, slide the outter hinge pin off and just remove the carriers from the arms. It's a snap actually.
For the front oneway I did dremel out the retainer in 2 slots so that the dog bone slides out easier but I'm woried to try that on the delrin diff...

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Same thing with the R2. The car just didn't have as much steering throw as my other cars and would seem to push on really slow tight tracks. I did have to dremel out the c blocks as WYD mentioned and it makes a world of difference for these types of tracks. The good thing now is I can dial it out with dual rate or dial it back in depending on how good or bad my set up may be.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

The easiest is to take out the rear hub carrier and then you can get the correct angle to get the dog bone out. I was thinking of cutting the delrin diff and then using heat shrink tube at the end. In a wreck then the diff half would not be messed up and I can replace the heat shrink in seconds.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

MikeR nice to see you on here. Been a little since I saw you post. I think I will dremel mine out some as well even though at this time I don't need to but would be nice to have it done.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

You just need to have the ar setup neutral. You don't really have to have a loose car in order to have it turn well for you. The more you need to turn your wheel the more you wold scrub speed. If two guys are using Cuda's or any other cars if they are turning less than you they wolod normally not be scrubbing as much speed as you would be. It is a happy medium to this and I think once you find it once you will see the benefits. It will take time to get it as each track is different.

raving-monkey

hiya guys, just raced the cuda for the first time tonight and it didn't go to well at all...

well in the first heat i clipped the apex of a corner and stripped a spur gear (i dont know if this was a common thing at this point)

2nd heat i clipped the same corner apex and stripped another spur gear...started to piss me off at this point

but i thought i'd fit another spur gear and have another go, after changing springs on the rear it went really well, until some numpty took me out while i was lapping him and i...take a guess.....stripped another spur gear!!!!!!!!!


anyway, i didn't have the car ready for the final (as i didnt finish any races, i was in a crap final) so i i raced my 12th in the 12th final (didn't score any points, as it was a 12th fun meeting) ....


so, my question is, is this a very common thing? is there a cure to this problem, or is it just me doing something wrong?

raving-monkey

and about getting the bone thingies out, i just take the shock off at the bottom, take the camber link off and the wheel...push the wishbone/hub carrier right up as far as it will go and it just drops out, i do the same to get it back in.

no need to take wishbones/hub carriers off...

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Not sure what spur your using. If you keep having this problem I would either use 48 pitch gears or make sure you atre getting a tight enough mesh on your 64 pitch and that the motor is tighten enough not to move. Every now anf then I have stripped a 64 pitch gear on a touring car. Their is a very fine line when meshing those things!!!!!! Sometimes I go months and never strip one and sometimes I do one on my first run.