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Old 09-14-2004, 01:20 AM   #12661
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Quote:
Originally posted by Eddie M
Hi guys, I am putting a R3 together and I find that the A arms (I have the harder optional arms) will bind when I tighten the pivot ball down on the chassis! What would you guys do to solve this probelm? I've try to use a heat gun on the arms but It doesn't seems to help.

Are you using the stock pivoballs or the offset ones ?
Try to use a fine file or a pice of sandpaper to polish the inside of the holes on the arm, this will make the pivoballs "run" freely in the armholes.

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Old 09-14-2004, 01:36 AM   #12662
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Thanks for the advice guy's!!!!
I have fitted Tamiya shocks to the car and there was no improvement, so I assume it's not shocks.
All the pivot balls and hinge pins are free and the arms fall equally all round, without the wheels fitted, so I think it's not that.
All the screws are tight, so no loose bits.
I have tried the one way, a diff and a spool in the front and the car is just as bad with all of them.
The car has been re-built 4 times in the last 6 weeks, and every bearing checked, and on a set up board at least 3 times a week, and all the settings are consistant.
Really don't know were to go from here????
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Old 09-14-2004, 01:40 AM   #12663
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Quote:
Originally posted by anton
Thanks for the advice guy's!!!!
I have fitted Tamiya shocks to the car and there was no improvement, so I assume it's not shocks.
All the pivot balls and hinge pins are free and the arms fall equally all round, without the wheels fitted, so I think it's not that.
All the screws are tight, so no loose bits.
I have tried the one way, a diff and a spool in the front and the car is just as bad with all of them.
The car has been re-built 4 times in the last 6 weeks, and every bearing checked, and on a set up board at least 3 times a week, and all the settings are consistant.
Really don't know were to go from here????
Seems like you tried just about everything ..
How about servo- servosaver ??

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Old 09-14-2004, 02:33 AM   #12664
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Quote:
Originally posted by anton
Thanks for the advice guy's!!!!
I have fitted Tamiya shocks to the car and there was no improvement, so I assume it's not shocks.
All the pivot balls and hinge pins are free and the arms fall equally all round, without the wheels fitted, so I think it's not that.
All the screws are tight, so no loose bits.
I have tried the one way, a diff and a spool in the front and the car is just as bad with all of them.
The car has been re-built 4 times in the last 6 weeks, and every bearing checked, and on a set up board at least 3 times a week, and all the settings are consistant.
Really don't know were to go from here????
did u try harder springs and swaybars?
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Old 09-14-2004, 02:41 AM   #12665
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Yes, tried almost every spring in the set.
Tried both front and rear roll bars in different combinations and different weights.
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Old 09-14-2004, 03:28 AM   #12666
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anton:
I did have this kind of sudden swerving before with my TC3 and when I checked everything was fine.
The problem dissapear when I change the front oneway with a diff. so maybe...one of those oneway bearing got busted-although when I check the oneway there's no binding (offload).
Check your L-R rear uprights as well, make sure it's correct.
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Old 09-14-2004, 03:58 AM   #12667
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Hi Anton,

As GTO2 also told you, check the front oneway properly. We already experienced some problems with the oneway sort of locking up sometimes on one side only. This will definitely effect the whole balance of the car

I did not read all your posts, but did you try a normal diff or a locked diff
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Old 09-14-2004, 05:58 AM   #12668
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If you are running a one way then like said before that might be your problem. If you leave off the throttle at all with the one way it will make your car get loose and swerve some. Any drag from the motor with the one way will make the car loose anytime you leave off the throttle.

I would try the car with the front diff in as it will more than likely be letter. Also could the car actually be glitching a little and causing the swerve.
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Old 09-14-2004, 07:36 AM   #12669
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He says he's tried a normal diff and a spool and still has the same problem.
Sounds more likely to be a dodgy bearing or two somewhere in the drive train, possibly they only act up when under load.
Take all the bearings out and give them a bath to take out the thick grease if you haven't already done so.
Then try each one in your fingers and feel for any notchyness.

A long shot guess.... but could you have the wrong axles with the wrong bones on the cvd's? or possibly the complete front cvds in the rear and vice versa?
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Old 09-14-2004, 08:00 AM   #12670
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Yeh, tried all the bearings, and the drive shafts are all in the right way.
I am trying to test again this weekend, so it's another total stirp down and re-build for me before that, and who knows, I might just find the problem!!!!
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Old 09-14-2004, 08:12 AM   #12671
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I did get my axles mixed up first time round, also the rear uprights...(silly me fixing it at 3am) surely car was behaving strangely until I got them all corrected.
So my suggestion when you strip them down the next time, try to double check that all goes correctly to their places. Who knows it's dang axles if not else, try and meet up with those Cuda guys.
good luck
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Old 09-14-2004, 08:31 AM   #12672
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Just a Quick question whats your roll out for r3? im using 27T monster pro what pinion and spur should i use

bryan
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Old 09-14-2004, 08:48 AM   #12673
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Sometimes it is a good idea for someone else to look at the car because after you look at it for so long sometimes you miss something. I know it happens to me every once in a while. The more you look and go over the more yu could miss something simple.
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Old 09-14-2004, 09:05 AM   #12674
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lowner_V1S
Just a Quick question whats your roll out for r3? im using 27T monster pro what pinion and spur should i use

bryan
Depends highly on your track -- small medium large ect..
I gear mine to peak just before the end of the longest straight of the track..
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Old 09-14-2004, 09:31 AM   #12675
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It can often be something silly that you just don't think of, like a certain ex Cuda racer who built the diffs with the diff screw in the wrong side then he wondered why the cvd couldn't go into the diff outdrive far enough....
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