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Old 09-04-2004, 06:30 AM   #12526
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Quote:
Originally posted by pumpkinfish
Is oval racing popular in Japan? Also, wouldn't a specific oval car like a RC10L4 be better suited? I don't understand why Alex Racing would release an oval version of the R3
I really don`t know why ALex will produce this car...maybe because the Owner of ALex Racing likes Oval racing..?? not quite sure..but what I do like is the new left hand motor mount make me think that Alex will produce a reversed chassis R3 ..???
-Dave
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Old 09-04-2004, 06:56 AM   #12527
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
I really don`t know why ALex will produce this car...maybe because the Owner of ALex Racing likes Oval racing..?? not quite sure..but what I do like is the new left hand motor mount make me think that Alex will produce a reversed chassis R3 ..???
-Dave
shouldn't you be in bed?

I thought about the reversed motor mount, maybe it's part of the reason they're only making ten kits though.
It seems they're getting a little less willing to do different things with the R3 than they were with the R2.
So will they want to bother with reversed chassis? It took them long enough to do a non sparkle chassis and there's no sign of a web special kind of R3.
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Old 09-04-2004, 05:41 PM   #12528
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Hi All,
still in the building stages of my R3 and have found that it's quite easy to tweak the chassis any tips you can share to reduce this tweak? it starts tweaking when i tighten the top deck even though i am doing it in star patterns and tightening the screws evenly, little by little.
right now, i am able to tighten the screws without much tweak at all (there's still a very slight bit) but i've noticed that the slightest twist to the chassis will make it tweak and not return back to the un-tweaked state
please help!
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Old 09-05-2004, 03:13 AM   #12529
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Default Re: Building tips?

Quote:
Originally posted by poop
Hi All,
still in the building stages of my R3 and have found that it's quite easy to tweak the chassis any tips you can share to reduce this tweak? it starts tweaking when i tighten the top deck even though i am doing it in star patterns and tightening the screws evenly, little by little.
right now, i am able to tighten the screws without much tweak at all (there's still a very slight bit) but i've noticed that the slightest twist to the chassis will make it tweak and not return back to the un-tweaked state
please help!
i read in a book that to solve tweak i think it said was to put the top deck on on tighten down the screws individually, if the chassis tweaks leave the screw a little lose or take that screw out do the same with the other screws but of course if the chasis does not tweak when you tighten down the screws leave them in (i think ), hope this helps

Chazz
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Old 09-05-2004, 03:33 AM   #12530
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Quote:
Originally posted by poop
Hi All,
still in the building stages of my R3 and have found that it's quite easy to tweak the chassis any tips you can share to reduce this tweak? it starts tweaking when i tighten the top deck even though i am doing it in star patterns and tightening the screws evenly, little by little.
right now, i am able to tighten the screws without much tweak at all (there's still a very slight bit) but i've noticed that the slightest twist to the chassis will make it tweak and not return back to the un-tweaked state
please help!
Sounds odd, tweak isn't something a lot of people complain about with the Cuda.
I know I've never had anything bad with my Xenon R2.
The only thing I can think of is the motor mount. I believe it is supposed to have a washer under the bottom mounting point, or no screw there if you want a bit more flex.

I always tend to rebuild the chassis and top deck in a particular way. Screw everything to the chassis but leave the screws a quarter turn loose. The put the top deck on with the chassis on a nice flat surface and star tighten the top deck down after giving everything a good wiggle to make sure everything is aligned properly. Then carefully turn over the whole lot and fully tighten the chassis screws in a star pattern, do each screw in atleast two stages. You can even start the chassis screws while the chassis is on the flat surface, just slide it over the edge of the table a bit and do the outer screws for the bulkheads.
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Old 09-05-2004, 03:59 AM   #12531
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Herminator you have a PM
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Old 09-05-2004, 05:24 AM   #12532
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nick Simpson
Herminator you have a PM
you have a reply
don't be shy to ask questions here too, I'm not the best person to ask for setup advice
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Old 09-05-2004, 12:08 PM   #12533
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Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
you have a reply
don't be shy to ask questions here too, I'm not the best person
to ask for setup advice
Cheers

Just wonderd if anyone can tell me if the R2/Triox comes with any toe in on the rear wishbones themselves?

Reason for this question is when i put the car on the setup board
with the 1deg rear hub on the car has 4deg toe in on each side

Im also running the mid-span arms if that makes a differance
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Old 09-05-2004, 12:33 PM   #12534
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hey nick, can't get away from me that easily

anyway, just a question for you lot, what is the differnece between the R2 and R3?

because the R2 is $200 on rc-mushroom, while the R3 is $250...

because i am going to be ordering the R2 on tuesday (if its any good still) but i was just wondering if there was any big differences.

thanks
Matt
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Old 09-05-2004, 02:31 PM   #12535
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Quote:
Originally posted by raving-monkey
hey nick, can't get away from me that easily

anyway, just a question for you lot, what is the differnece between the R2 and R3?

because the R2 is $200 on rc-mushroom, while the R3 is $250...

because i am going to be ordering the R2 on tuesday (if its any good still) but i was just wondering if there was any big differences.

thanks
Matt
argh... that question again
You'd be better off spending the extra $50 on the R3.
It has a much better drive train out of the box, although the R2 can be made just as good, if not better, it needs money spending on optional parts.
Both cars will benifit greatly from the alloy shaft holders as their first hop up too
I'm not going to bother detailing the differences, I'll post some pics and let you see the R2 close to stock.
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Old 09-05-2004, 02:33 PM   #12536
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you should be able to see the lack of support for the main driveshaft at the motor mount.
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Old 09-05-2004, 02:41 PM   #12537
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one more- this is my cuda at it's first big race about 18 months ago.....
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Old 09-05-2004, 02:44 PM   #12538
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an R3 motor mount....
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Old 09-05-2004, 02:46 PM   #12539
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inspired by the Xenon R2.....
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Old 09-05-2004, 03:06 PM   #12540
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thanks herminator...but i need the other $50 (about 30) for a motor etc....need to save as much as poss...like i also need a shell, wheels/tyres etc
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