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Old 05-28-2004, 10:14 PM   #11041
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Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
Will this 3mm chassis have 3d milling?
Would be nice to see the servo area milled out a bit to lower it and also instead of the annoying big battery sized slots where the esc and reciever usualy sit, it would be good to maybe have small holes as well as some milling to lower it.
Maybe some hexs milled out around the large pivot ball lacations so they can't rotate loose. Although they couldn't be deep as it could reduce droop too much. It could help make sure each side is the same when using the offset balls, but it may also limit precise changes if you want to use tiny amounts of rotation for tiny toe in changes.
Maybe you could bevel the out edge of the chassis where the suspension arms are to make sure the droop isn't limited.
maybe a personal tranponder sized bit of milling between the steering posts on the bottom chassis, if one will fit under the rack.
I'm full of ideas

Will there be R2 Pal style "wings"?
Will they be able to work out an easy access spur through a splir top deck with the R3 motor mount the way it is?
So far..... . I have sent the R3 to the Maker of the Chassis... and They are open for my Idea's or other Idea's that us R3 users might have ..

so far from what I have told then is that I want the Battery moved up 3mm and in 1mm and the servo moved up 3mm also... along with 3D cut outs for the bulkheads like the Xenon and PAL R2 chassis and that would make the Steering wiper posts lower too along with the motor mount being lower .... Now I have thought about 2 things like you pointe dout Heremi... I have though of Removing the area under the servo's carbonfiber in X or Square patter...or milling in down 1mm?? still thinking about that one Also I am trying to get this set made with the shock towers in 3mm and 3D milled in sertain palces along with a front bumper brace and Boday post supports like the Square ones ... Trust me the Quality of this Conversion lit will be one most of you R3 guys will want to have... and from some of my testing with the R3 it seams like the car needs a bit more forward Bias.. ..

More to follow in the Weeks to come
-Dave
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Old 05-28-2004, 10:18 PM   #11042
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Quote:
Originally posted by Merciless
JDM_DOHC_SiR

U able to hook us up with those alloy knuckles ?? I've tried every where for a R3 compatable set with the right ackerman holes i still haven't found anyone that sells them !!

Cheers
I'm still in the works with them but it might be a few months down the line But they will be made the more people want them the faster I think I can get them made...$$$ talks too but they will have all of the positions of the R3/R2 ones along with one more position ..( I hope ) but if your in a hurt for some alloy knuckles that have a mid point between the R2/R3 ones try the Jet Hobby ones they have there mounting point right between were the two holes are
-Dave
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Old 05-29-2004, 12:40 AM   #11043
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Oh! I thought you were in Japan Where are you now?
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Old 05-29-2004, 12:48 AM   #11044
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I'd go for a 1mm lowered servo position
Then in the ESC area you could put some corrally assassin style small swaure cut outs just left of the center line so you can use their chassis weights and then where the actual ESC will sit mill out some triangular sections or maybe a big R3
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Old 05-29-2004, 12:48 AM   #11045
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Quote:
Originally posted by OVA
Oh! I thought you were in Japan Where are you now?
On Vaccation in the States
-Dave
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Old 05-29-2004, 12:49 AM   #11046
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another change of avatar Dave?
didn't know what the one before this one was, looked odd, what motor is that?
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Old 05-29-2004, 12:53 AM   #11047
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Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
I'd go for a 1mm lowered servo position
Then in the ESC area you could put some corrally assassin style small swaure cut outs just left of the center line so you can use their chassis weights and then where the actual ESC will sit mill out some triangular sections or maybe a big R3
I have some drawings that I did before I came to the states with the dimentions and such and what areas I thought would need to have matterial removed from ..but I think that the servo being lower is a start also a fewsmaller slots under the ESC area wouldn"t hurt...just as long as there is more surface area to servo tape or shooe gooe the ECS and what ever else down ..besides the motor side is a tab bit on the light side by about 10 grams on average.. right in front of the motor or next to the motor depending on motor servo receiver ECS ect ect
-Dave
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Old 05-29-2004, 12:54 AM   #11048
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Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
another change of avatar Dave?
didn't know what the one before this one was, looked odd, what motor is that?
It's one of the Newer ATLAS ones the FORCE 23T can
-Dave
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Old 05-29-2004, 01:13 AM   #11049
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hmm, not exactly a racey looking motor
You should quit all this wimpy 23T stuff, get a nice 19turn or mod motor
I really enjoy the managable power of a 19spec motor, it's the best change to tourer classes for years
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Old 05-29-2004, 01:22 AM   #11050
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Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
hmm, not exactly a racey looking motor
You should quit all this wimpy 23T stuff, get a nice 19turn or mod motor
I really enjoy the managable power of a 19spec motor, it's the best change to tourer classes for years

Trust me 99% of all my 23T motors can put the Smack Down on 19T's that are out there in the States right now and my 23T don"t have bearings either ..

I just picked up a Fantom Dyno and Have been going wild with it testing a few 23T stockers that I took to the states from Japan and I also bought 4 differnt 19T "SPEC" motors
Quad Mag Reedy
Epic Biniary 19T
Orion Element
Trinity Chamillion
Some are ok but for a 19T they need some help ..

DO I need to send you a 23T motor for testing there Peter
Trust me you'll be a beliver
-Dave
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Old 05-29-2004, 01:28 AM   #11051
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hmm.... I'm certainly skepticle
I think the americans are slightly behind anyway with 19turn motors
What are the 23turn stocks like for maintanence?
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Old 05-29-2004, 01:33 AM   #11052
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Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
hmm.... I'm certainly skepticle
I think the americans are slightly behind anyway with 19turn motors
What are the 23turn stocks like for maintanence?
Depends on what type of Brush and what your track conditions are like...but most of the time I cut the comm every 4~5 packs...becuase I love a fresh motor...but you can get away with 10 Packs before a cut or skim if you gear them right ...want to try one
-Dave
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Old 05-29-2004, 01:44 AM   #11053
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sounds like a 19spec motor for skimming then, just have to wonder how it makes the power up if it's not by being a bitch to the comm
Going to be trying to get the best out of my Demon 19Spec motor tomorrow From what I've experienced so far with it, I should be able to out gear practicly every car out there and still have the rip in the mid field to stick on the tail of any other car My Matrix was different, it would keep up on the straight with anything but then out rip them on the midfield They run quite differently.
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Old 05-29-2004, 01:53 AM   #11054
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Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
sounds like a 19spec motor for skimming then, just have to wonder how it makes the power up if it's not by being a bitch to the comm
A lot of it I think has to do with how some of them are made... I have looked at some of the windings on some of the Trinity Arms and they look like the Machine that wound them was on CrAcK ..really piss poor but most of the 23T arms that are wound on Machines look just as good and tight around the poles as some moderate priced Modified motors ...no BS. and alot of the 23T motors are now messing around with different Comm sizes and Screw Comm's I think that the new V2 19T Spec Element will Have this type of Comm when it's out in Europe
-Dave
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Old 05-29-2004, 02:14 AM   #11055
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The Peak Dynasty is already out with the V2 endbell. Don't know if it has the spiral comm segments, I know one of the modified versions does, something like the Masami edition, but I don't think you can actualy get them at the moment. I think the 19turn has a pretty large comm size.

Some stock motors do have ugly windings I would say Matrix motor's are good for being fairly consistant and reasonably neat. Lots of other motors can vary a lot. So it's worth getting a good tuner to pick you out a motor, now where would I find one of those around here.... (hey Gaz quit hiding )
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