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Alex Racing Barracuda R2 & R3

Alex Racing Barracuda R2 & R3

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Old 04-10-2004, 10:10 PM
  #10471  
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weird....i always ran TC3 springs on my Cuda with no problems on the stock shocks i just used the tc3 springs retaining on the bottom and flipped the shock collar upside-down
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Old 04-10-2004, 10:57 PM
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This is baffling me. You guys that are using the R3 shocks I have a couple more questions.

1. Do all four shocks appear to be the same size? I know it is said the longer ones go on the rear, but all of mine appear to be the same length

2. How long from top to bottom is yours? The manual and supplement said to set them to 59.5mm so that is where I am at.

One last thing, I can't find my droop screws. Where are they, like what bag did they come in? Did I miss them?
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Old 04-10-2004, 10:58 PM
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Originally posted by TC3
lowering the rollcenter will result in more chassie roll
but it will increase traction...
yep, my mistake. thanks for the correction.
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Old 04-10-2004, 11:02 PM
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Originally posted by pumpkinfish
This is baffling me. You guys that are using the R3 shocks I have a couple more questions.

1. Do all four shocks appear to be the same size? I know it is said the longer ones go on the rear, but all of mine appear to be the same length

2. How long from top to bottom is yours? The manual and supplement said to set them to 59.5mm so that is where I am at.

One last thing, I can't find my droop screws. Where are they, like what bag did they come in? Did I miss them?
I have mine all 4 the same length of 60.5 and there're no droop screw provided.
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Old 04-10-2004, 11:05 PM
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Originally posted by TC3
does anybody know, if tamiya trf shocks fit the R2 ??
thx
It should be, I'm running them on my R3 with Tamiya short springs. Change the mounting to ball studs.
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Old 04-11-2004, 02:25 AM
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Originally posted by OVA
Hey TC3
I'm running Tamiya shock and useing TC3 shock spring.. works great
PS. Don't use tamiya spring they're alittle too long.
will the alex springs fit on the tamiya shocks ?
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Old 04-11-2004, 02:33 AM
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Originally posted by Merciless
I'm sure this has been asked b4 but i don't think a full answer has ever been given !!

When using the XENON front C-Hubs on my R3 i have an issue with ground clearence, well lack of it, the Hubs make contact with the wishbones very soon stoping there downward travel keeping the chassis within about 3mm of the ground when using worn foams.

Is there anything that can be done to help with this problem or is a change back to the std. C-hubs ??

Only thing i could think of was to take a dremel to the shoulders of the alloy C-hubs to narrow them allowing more movement ?!?!
that just seems alittle drastic ??
ANYONE ???
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Old 04-11-2004, 07:06 AM
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sorry mate, i'm not using the xenon parts yet (only the strapping tape) so can't comment on that. If not wrong, they come with 2 holes or something. Have you tried putting back the stock ones and see what is the difference?
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Old 04-11-2004, 08:46 AM
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Default Re: Re: HELP PLEASE

Originally posted by Merciless
ANYONE ???
On my R2, the stock c-hubs are the same as my xenon c-hubs. I think it's the front shocks that are limiting your down travel. Try it, swap out the xenon for the stock and you'll see they're pretty much identical.
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Old 04-11-2004, 09:18 AM
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merciless,

you are correct. for running smaller tires (like foams) you'll need the arms to be able to fall down more than with rubber tires just to get a decent ride height. i have the xenon hubs as well, but i haven't used them yet. i have mounted them up, and i have verified that the interference that you speak of is, indeed, present.

the only solution is to dremel either the arm or the carrier. the arm is cheaper, but there is much more material on the carrier to grind. it won't be pretty, but with some care, and some polishing wheels you could smooth it out nice. sorry, but the low roll center pin location in the hub, which is the only one it has, is the primary cause of this. just take away some of that huge shoulder on the carrier.

pumpkin - your r/h problem is a result of a spring that is too long for your current hardware. the first thing you can do is to use associated spring perches. they drop the spring down like 3 or 4 mm or so. unless they will hit your arms, that's the easiest solution. make sure that the next springs you get fit over the shoulder of the collar. that will give you an extra mm or two. losi's are big, but they aren't much shorter if any.

i did talk to latif michail from trinity, at the roar nats last week, who had a nice set of short springs that come in or near all the ranges the associated set does. he may have said that trinity was distributing them. i can't remember the brand. his username on this board is TEAM BUTTER. i was hounding him for some, but he just blew me off.

see what yo can do.
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Old 04-11-2004, 10:14 AM
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why not use alex springs, the work very well
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Old 04-11-2004, 11:24 AM
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yeah, that sounds like an overlooked solution. i know that a lot of companies don't make springs that go stiff enough for high bite carpet. i guess i thought that might be the case here since your suggestion was, well, obvious.
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Old 04-11-2004, 11:54 AM
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Originally posted by seaball
yeah, that sounds like an overlooked solution. i know that a lot of companies don't make springs that go stiff enough for high bite carpet. i guess i thought that might be the case here since your suggestion was, well, obvious.
I think the highest cuda spring is a 23 lb/in. I don't run carpet so i'm not sure if that's sufficient.
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Old 04-11-2004, 12:04 PM
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lol if ur needin some stiff springs run the associated whites there liek the hardest springs iv seen thats if they will fit properly on cuda shocks
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Old 04-11-2004, 03:28 PM
  #10485  
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Originally posted by seaball
merciless,

you are correct. for running smaller tires (like foams) you'll need the arms to be able to fall down more than with rubber tires just to get a decent ride height. i have the xenon hubs as well, but i haven't used them yet. i have mounted them up, and i have verified that the interference that you speak of is, indeed, present.

the only solution is to dremel either the arm or the carrier. the arm is cheaper, but there is much more material on the carrier to grind. it won't be pretty, but with some care, and some polishing wheels you could smooth it out nice. sorry, but the low roll center pin location in the hub, which is the only one it has, is the primary cause of this. just take away some of that huge shoulder on the carrier.

pumpkin - your r/h problem is a result of a spring that is too long for your current hardware. the first thing you can do is to use associated spring perches. they drop the spring down like 3 or 4 mm or so. unless they will hit your arms, that's the easiest solution. make sure that the next springs you get fit over the shoulder of the collar. that will give you an extra mm or two. losi's are big, but they aren't much shorter if any.

i did talk to latif michail from trinity, at the roar nats last week, who had a nice set of short springs that come in or near all the ranges the associated set does. he may have said that trinity was distributing them. i can't remember the brand. his username on this board is TEAM BUTTER. i was hounding him for some, but he just blew me off.

see what yo can do.
Arranged with a machinest mate of mine to get those C-Hubs milled down alittle Cheers just wanted to be sure i was not overlooking a simple solution
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