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Old 03-30-2004, 11:50 PM   #10351
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Default Re: A guy on another board....

Quote:
Originally posted by racenut123
He had it for sale and it was new.Got pics.Said it was 200.00 and thought to myself I think they go for alot more then that new from Speedtech.Also thought its my chance to try a cuda.So its a done deal.Just looked at how much it would have cost me.twice as much would have hurt!

Anything I should get beside the obvious{arms,knuckles,etc}?
A6313 rear knuckles (1 deg).
A6713 Short span arm
6.8mm offset ball studs to ajust rear toe (get a set for both the arm sets if you run both short and long arms).
shimset and spacers

$200 !!!! WOW rear good deal..

Happy racing.
The Wallbanger
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Old 03-30-2004, 11:56 PM   #10352
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Yeah the guy checked out.Hes had good past sales already and has good Paypal record.Also I have his cell and home phone info.
Not too worried about that.


What does the short arms do compared to the stock arm length?
Also I noticed this thing uses torq screws?WTF!?
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Old 03-31-2004, 12:15 AM   #10353
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Quote:
Originally posted by racenut123
Yeah the guy checked out.Hes had good past sales already and has good Paypal record.Also I have his cell and home phone info.
Not too worried about that.


What does the short arms do compared to the stock arm length?
Also I noticed this thing uses torq screws?WTF!?
The short arm are recomende by most drivers here to use on short twist tracks because they make the car more responsive.

The car is assambled with 2mm hex and a "+" screw driver.
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File Type: jpg short-long.jpg (29.7 KB, 109 views)
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Old 03-31-2004, 01:39 AM   #10354
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Quote:
Originally posted by Merciless
Guys with these "hard" wishbones I believe you are susposed to warm the arms before trying to install the ball studs.

How have you been "warming" them boiling the complete wishones seems like a bad idea as that'll just de-stress them and they'll be all bendy again surely ??

Anyway please help as thats my next job in the "BIG" cuda build

I'll post some pic's maybe soon........Oh i'm like a proud farther
Yeah good point. I would just dip the ends in the water only although I didn't heat mine up at all and snapped them in fine. **kids don't try this at home! **
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A picture with your post, when trouble shooting, will probably get more rctech help than without...
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Old 03-31-2004, 02:12 AM   #10355
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Heating them up with a heat gun a little is highly recomended...or anything that will get them warm.
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Old 03-31-2004, 03:51 AM   #10356
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Default Work in progress




1/3 done ??
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Old 03-31-2004, 04:44 AM   #10357
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Dang...is it my browser or the pic is really HUGE
Nice....
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Old 03-31-2004, 05:03 AM   #10358
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OOPS!

I'll remember to RESIZE the next
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Old 03-31-2004, 06:54 AM   #10359
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Quote:
Originally posted by GTO2
Dang...is it my browser or the pic is really HUGE
Nice....
yup, it's huge...it's for us old people who can't see...lol
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Old 03-31-2004, 11:18 AM   #10360
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Default Re: Hello guys!

Quote:
Originally posted by racenut123
Just thought I would come to where the Cuda info is!I need a couple things......First off I just bought a Blue R3 with xenon aluminum front hubs carriers and rear uprights.Its brand new and it was 200.00 Was that a good deal for basically a new R3?Also 2# What are the essential parts for the car that I will need to stock for racing?And #3 Ling if your listening or see this,Can someone give me a good starting setup for asphalt.Medium,sometimes low grip asphalt.I know lingers got the carpet setup dialed cause his car was awsome on carpet.But he also kicked my butt at rctech last tuesday night race. So parking lot setup is what I need. #4 What is th3e main difference between the r2 and r3?Any essential hopups like how the r2 needed the pal drive?

Please tell me it was a good deal!?
John,
Congrats on your purchase.

For the R3 make sure the steering rods a mounted in the forward hole on the spindle to get enough steering throw.

Shocks:
The stock pistons need help. You will probably need to drill them out to 1.0-1.2 mm. Better yet, I use the HPI teflon #2 piston. With that piston, running a 30 weight oil in a cuda shock is like running a 40 weight oil in an AE shock. For carpet I used 40F/30R, for asphalt I run 30-35F, 25-30R. Don't worry if you are running lighter shock oil than everyone else.

Springs:
For Asphalt (low-med bite RC-Tech, RC-Car)
I start out with the 1.4x6.25 (12.42 lb/in) Alex spring in front mounted on the inner hole on the arm.
For the rear, I use the 1.4x6.00 (14.39 lb/in) Alex spring mounted in the 2nd hole (from outer) on the arm.
A thought about springs: I highly recommend the Alex or Rayspeed springs. I personally measured the spring rates and they are spot on from spring to spring. The Yokomo and Tamiya springs have TONS of variation. The AE springs are pretty decent too.
The Alex Shocks and Springs are larger in diameter. You can use smaller diameter AE/Tamiya springs by flipping the upper spring perch upside down and by using a tamiya lower spring perch.

Swaybars:
In front, I use 1.2mm
In rear, 1.0 mm or none at all.

Arms:
Ditch the long span arms and get the mid-span (short) arms.

I also run little bit of anti-dive in front.

Spare parts:
castor blocks, spindles, bearings for the wheel hubs, maybe 1 set of replacement gears. Nothing else breaks.

-Ling
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Old 03-31-2004, 12:40 PM   #10361
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Guys could you please spend alittle time looking at these and see if you can spot any build mistakes i might have made ??



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Old 03-31-2004, 12:49 PM   #10362
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Seems to be a great car, although taking some time over building it as my japanese ain't up to much and reading it is hard

linger Any chance of a full carpet+foams set-up please i'm very new to the cuda so a complete run down of all the settings would be great if you don't mind spending the time on it for me/us all please??

Cheers GUYS i really appreciate your help !!
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Old 03-31-2004, 01:35 PM   #10363
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The build looks fine so far, I would of prepped the chassis though to get rid of those sharp edges.
Atleast seal the battery slots with some CA. I found the best stuff for the job was a little container that comes with a brush built into the cap, the brush is good for running along the edge of the chassis.
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Old 03-31-2004, 01:44 PM   #10364
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As u noticed i haven't yet done the battery slots, but the lower chassis's outer edges have already been completely sealed
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Old 03-31-2004, 02:30 PM   #10365
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looks nice but i would sand the outer adges as well in case they rub in the corners a little bit it wont scrub off tons of speed
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