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Old 03-23-2004, 09:30 AM   #10291
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Quote:
Originally posted by OVA
I'm at work now...I need to know what deg. is the stock hub carrier? Does R2 have any caster block or hub carrier hop up
OVA,

On the R2, it comes with a 2 deg rear hub carrier (Part number 6514 I believe) and the arms have 2 deg. built in, so a stock R2 will have 4 deg. of rear toe.

You can reduce that by changing the rear hub to a 1 deg rear hub (part number 6113) and that will give you a total of 3 deg. rear toe in. If you need to reduce it further, then you'll need the titanium nitride offset suspension balls studs.

The R3 rear hub carrier (part number 6313) will work on the R2 as well, and that is a low roll center 1 deg. rear hub carrier. This hub carrier straightens out the rear universal at ride height and gives the car better acceleration in my opinion.

Steve Wang
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Old 03-23-2004, 09:43 AM   #10292
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Yes you are right...I do have the offset ball mount in the rear,
I do have the one degree rear hub....
Steve I was talking about the front caster block
What is the degree on the stock caster block?
Right now I got the blue xenon front caster block ,are they the same degree as the stock one?
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Old 03-23-2004, 09:45 AM   #10293
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Steve Are you coming up to the ROAR National on Road in the great NW?
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Old 03-23-2004, 01:58 PM   #10294
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Default Re: Need help

Quote:
Originally posted by KJ
Guys,

Would it be possible for the folks in US to share with us a English version of R2/R3 instruction manual? Everything that we see here in Asia is Japanese. Guess what? I can't read Japs.....

Much appreciated.
heres that link to the troix
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Old 03-23-2004, 02:44 PM   #10295
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Well after a few months of using the titanium axles I can say they certainly don't wear very much. Unfortunatly I can't say the same for the alloy bones. Had some funny handling last night and a mate tracked it down to the huge amount of wear in the bones, which were installed at the same time as the titanium axles, in November.
I haven't managed to bend them at all, and it's not like I never crash, but the wear is kind of annoying. Atleast I have the steel ones to go back to. The alloy ones are barely worth the extra money for saving rotating mass if they're going to give up so quickly with a stock motor running a diff at all times. Even the rear ones are pretty bad, but usable.

Also need to try and track down a radio glitch, had the throttle cutting off for split seconds at times. Often out of corners, not very helpful when you've got some steering on and the car isn't going as fast as you expect it to, you end up turning too much or not enough.
All this managed to put me in the B final the disgrace atleast I won it, but boy did the car feel slow.
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Old 03-24-2004, 01:53 AM   #10296
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Ova,

Ahhh...I was getting a bit mixed up there (I see the word hub carrier and the C-hub, so...sorry about that)

I'm not sure exactly that the C-hub is, but I believe they are 7 deg. (I'll have to double check) and I know the Xenon should the same as stock.

I'm not sure about the ROAR Nats, I attended Nats last year, and it was done okay, but I'm not sure if it was justified for the amount of distance we traveled (North Carolina is faaaarrrr!) It is definitely planned for this year, but I'm not sure if 100% I will attened.

Guys,

One of the things we are discovering with the cuda (in comparison with other sedans out there) is that you will most of the time have to end up going softer in springs and oil all around the car (especially if you're running the long arms) because of the shock angle, and the long arms, a setup that you think is medium on the cuda is actually a very stiff setup in comparison to other sedans out there. So I would suggest experimenting with softer springs, and thinner oil to see if it makes an improvement in handling. I will be doing more testing during the month of April (busy this coming weekend with family ) so I'll let you guys know what I discover.

Herminator,

don't feel bad about B-main, there's always good and bad nights of racing. I was in the B-main myself last Sat. (missed the A by a couple of seconds) mainly because I had bad qualifying runs, but I won the B-main just like you. Sometimes these minor set backs makes you want to race even more the next weekend and I know it keeps me motivated

Steve Wang
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Old 03-24-2004, 02:34 AM   #10297
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Yes ... Xenon front C-Hubs are 7 deg
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Old 03-24-2004, 02:37 AM   #10298
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Default Re: Re: Need help

Quote:
Originally posted by cHckbOY5
heres that link to the troix
Thanks! You guys are helpful. At least I will be able to refer to it.

Anyway, do you guys know what is this Triox business? It looks like it is an R2 but with the battery at a different side.
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Old 03-24-2004, 03:31 AM   #10299
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Default Re: Re: Re: Need help

Quote:
Originally posted by KJ
Thanks! You guys are helpful. At least I will be able to refer to it.

Anyway, do you guys know what is this Triox business? It looks like it is an R2 but with the battery at a different side.
triox is a gearman company. it is the distributer for alex racing in europe (well, they changed the battery layout, and gave the barracuda, a new namen).
in former times triox was distributer for companies like losi, trinity and traxxas.
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Old 03-24-2004, 07:37 AM   #10300
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Hi Steve
I was talking about The Roar National on road in The Great NorthWest Portlan Oregon.....Are you going there?
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Old 03-24-2004, 05:18 PM   #10301
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedTech

Guys,

One of the things we are discovering with the cuda (in comparison with other sedans out there) is that you will most of the time have to end up going softer in springs and oil all around the car (especially if you're running the long arms) because of the shock angle, and the long arms, a setup that you think is medium on the cuda is actually a very stiff setup in comparison to other sedans out there. So I would suggest experimenting with softer springs, and thinner oil to see if it makes an improvement in handling. I will be doing more testing during the month of April (busy this coming weekend with family ) so I'll let you guys know what I discover.

Steve Wang
what oil and springs are you using at socal?

just fyi... i was experimenting last night.. i put 3 hole tamiya pistons.. and 35 wt oil (team orion oil w/ midspan arms and camber links set to the outer holes) and the car came to life.... very responsive. i had to dial my steering down to about 65%. i didnt experiment enough to where i could actually use the new found responsiveness of the car. the qualifiers were just around the corner.

steve.. PM me your set up so i can compare with mine and see where i can go so i can get the car dialed.
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Old 03-24-2004, 07:43 PM   #10302
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Ok guys, time for me to ask a question
Can anyone tell me if the kit came with an option of servo arms as I've not been able to find any on the old parts tree's I have and I need one to fit a Futaba servo since I've been using a KO servo for the last year. I take it it's a yokomo part like the other plastic parts tree items, so if anyone has a part number for it that would be helpful too.

Cheers.
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Old 03-25-2004, 12:51 AM   #10303
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If you are talking about an R2, they do come with servo arms. The exact part number is A6123. You will have 3 different ones to fit the most popular servos.

As regarding the R3s, they do not come with a servo saver. The best one I found till now is the Tamiya Hi-Torque Servo Saver SP-473 (50473). You have the option of long or short servo horn and can fit Futaba, Tamiya, Sanwa, Acoms & KO servos.

Regards,
Mark
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Old 03-25-2004, 06:33 AM   #10304
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Anyone gt any idea's on a STARTING set-up for the R3 racing on an indoor low grip prima felt carpet with proline purple tyres ??

Fairly tight infield but a long straight (got to be at least 40 foot)
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Old 03-25-2004, 09:40 AM   #10305
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Visit http://www.alexracingusa.com/setup_sheets.htm for some setup sheets provided by Speedtechrc.

Regards,
Mark
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