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Old 11-30-2003, 06:29 PM   #7606
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Standard Team TC3 with blue screws, blue heatsinks and lrp 7.1 big hitec reciever ko 713 all packed in. Ill take a piccy of it on the scales tomorrow/later today. Your min weight is 1500g right?
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Old 11-30-2003, 07:55 PM   #7607
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Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
Here's it after I visited the scales
Gotta love those rally tires
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Old 12-01-2003, 09:43 AM   #7608
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Quote:
Originally posted by berger
Standard Team TC3 with blue screws, blue heatsinks and lrp 7.1 big hitec reciever ko 713 all packed in. Ill take a piccy of it on the scales tomorrow/later today. Your min weight is 1500g right?
ah, it's not a cuda
aluminium screws..... you're a brave man
minimum weight is 1500g, yes, although if Losi XXX-S owners had their way it would be 1600grams didn't realise how crappy some of their mouldings were until I saw my mates spare front diff cover yesterday, the plastic is just stupidly thick could probably make an alloy one lighter

Hey Randman, don't diss the tyres you try using slicks indoors, I'll see you when your picking your car out of the wall
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Old 12-01-2003, 09:45 AM   #7609
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Herm, ran on polished wooden floor yesterday....and brought home the chocolate
You wont believe the set up though...shouldnt really work but it did.
Running the Web special with Pal A spec conversion.
Front: shock mount 3 holes in at the top outer hole bottom, 40 wt oil hpi piston #2 Yoke bladder caps and Rayspeed red springs.
Xenon front hub with camber links in the middle hole inboard, 0.5 degree toe out, 1.5 degree camber. Droop set at 4 (outside bottom edge of arm)
Rear: shock mount 3 holes in again up top, outer hole at the bottom, 40 wt oil, hpi #2 and rayspeed white spring, bladders up top too. Xenon rear hub camber link in middle hole again, 2.5 degree toe in, 1.5 degrees camber, droop set at 3.

front diff set tight, rear normal, yellow mini pins all round, tried 20 mm pins first but too twitchy at the rear, 26 mm much better, used 26mm inch up in the end with schumacher blue foam insert, car changed direction so much better and had loads of traction too. Pins were quite worn (20+ runs on carpet) but worked so much better than new ones, used GP3300 cells to get the weight uo as was already running 115 gms onboard, total weight 1502 including transponder!!!!!!!! Oh run a protorom vectra too with a std rear wing.

See what I mean, shouldnt work but sure did and won with ease in the end

How does that differ from what you run??????
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Old 12-01-2003, 09:46 AM   #7610
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Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
ah, it's not a cuda
aluminium screws..... you're a brave man
minimum weight is 1500g, yes, although if Losi XXX-S owners had their way it would be 1600grams didn't realise how crappy some of their mouldings were until I saw my mates spare front diff cover yesterday, the plastic is just stupidly thick could probably make an alloy one lighter
And you wonder why I milled the hell out of my XXX-S chassis
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Old 12-01-2003, 10:15 AM   #7611
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gazza_D
Herm, ran on polished wooden floor yesterday....and brought home the chocolate
You wont believe the set up though...shouldnt really work but it did.
Running the Web special with Pal A spec conversion.
Front: shock mount 3 holes in at the top outer hole bottom, 40 wt oil hpi piston #2 Yoke bladder caps and Rayspeed red springs.
Xenon front hub with camber links in the middle hole inboard, 0.5 degree toe out, 1.5 degree camber. Droop set at 4 (outside bottom edge of arm)
Rear: shock mount 3 holes in again up top, outer hole at the bottom, 40 wt oil, hpi #2 and rayspeed white spring, bladders up top too. Xenon rear hub camber link in middle hole again, 2.5 degree toe in, 1.5 degrees camber, droop set at 3.

front diff set tight, rear normal, yellow mini pins all round, tried 20 mm pins first but too twitchy at the rear, 26 mm much better, used 26mm inch up in the end with schumacher blue foam insert, car changed direction so much better and had loads of traction too. Pins were quite worn (20+ runs on carpet) but worked so much better than new ones, used GP3300 cells to get the weight uo as was already running 115 gms onboard, total weight 1502 including transponder!!!!!!!! Oh run a protorom vectra too with a std rear wing.

See what I mean, shouldnt work but sure did and won with ease in the end

How does that differ from what you run??????
Doesn't actually sound too different from what I'm running, same direction anyway. Don't know my exact numbers, but I'm running a bucket load of rear toe in and quite a lot fo rear camber too, lets just say, the rear practicly always follows the front around the track Which allows quite a lot of steering, the front settings are about 1.5 toe out and 1.8 camber (I think) Xenon hubs all round and same link positions, but one alloy spacer on the rear hubs (may try it without) Droop is basicly as far as the arms can go, the screws are all the way up. Using kit pistons with yoke 250 oil, yoke bladders all round too. Front shocks are on the inner holes at the bottom and one in from center at the top. Rears are central at the top and one in at the bottom.

Tyres are narrows at the moment, I think they give just a touch more cornering grip but are more temperamental about the setup and also worse when you run even a little off line where there's more dust.

Tyres are confusing me at this minute, after yesterday there seems to be quite a few combinations that work, lots that don't work though. Wides can be just as fast as narrows at the right time and can be more forgiving, new tyres never seem to work I think. I've seen some weirdly good grip from practicly bald narrows with pretty hard rubber insirts My narrows have had less than two weeks use and they're getting fairly bald, far too much wear for my liking, but hopefully I can get them working when bald too......
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Old 12-01-2003, 12:05 PM   #7612
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Default @hermi

why r u placing the weight on the battery side
isn't the stock r2 chassie the better choice for lowgrip tracks like wouden flor?
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Old 12-01-2003, 03:31 PM   #7613
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Default Re: @hermi

Quote:
Originally posted by TC3
why r u placing the weight on the battery side
isn't the stock r2 chassie the better choice for lowgrip tracks like wouden flor?
I prefer the Xenon chassis over the stock one, nicer balance, plus it's a hell of a lot easier on spur gears
There's weights on the battery side because I ran out of room on the other side There are a lot of weights on not much chassis space
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Old 12-01-2003, 04:41 PM   #7614
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Default Re: Re: @hermi

Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
I prefer the Xenon chassis over the stock one, nicer balance, plus it's a hell of a lot easier on spur gears
There's weights on the battery side because I ran out of room on the other side There are a lot of weights on not much chassis space
have you tried to run any of the weights down the center of the chassis?
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Old 12-01-2003, 04:48 PM   #7615
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Default How reliable is this car?

Hi all,

I am thinking about getting an R2 or even an R3 when they come out and was wondering how reliable these cars are? I was even considering a Yokomo SD until i saw a guy break something in the front suspension arm/parts by just ever so slightly clipping the guard rail (which many people hit with their Tamiya's at full speed and drive away unscratched). I'm not asking whether these cars will be more crash proof than Tamiya's 'cos they're pretty much known for their crash worthiness, what i am asking is what are the weakest parts in an R2? would you recommend this car to people who enter into races with other people who drive those tanks (aka Tamiya) where accidents do occasionally happen? and because spare parts are an issue where i live, when i do buy a barracuda, what spares should i pick up along with the car?
thanks in advance for your help, and sorry for the long story
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Old 12-01-2003, 04:49 PM   #7616
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Default Re: Re: @hermi

Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
I prefer the Xenon chassis over the stock one, nicer balance, plus it's a hell of a lot easier on spur gears
There's weights on the battery side because I ran out of room on the other side There are a lot of weights on not much chassis space
there should be room in the area behind the motor mount near the pinion.
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Old 12-01-2003, 04:53 PM   #7617
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Default Re: How reliable is this car?

Quote:
Originally posted by poop
Hi all,

I am thinking about getting an R2 or even an R3 when they come out and was wondering how reliable these cars are? I was even considering a Yokomo SD until i saw a guy break something in the front suspension arm/parts by just ever so slightly clipping the guard rail (which many people hit with their Tamiya's at full speed and drive away unscratched). I'm not asking whether these cars will be more crash proof than Tamiya's 'cos they're pretty much known for their crash worthiness, what i am asking is what are the weakest parts in an R2? would you recommend this car to people who enter into races with other people who drive those tanks (aka Tamiya) where accidents do occasionally happen? and because spare parts are an issue where i live, when i do buy a barracuda, what spares should i pick up along with the car?
thanks in advance for your help, and sorry for the long story
the only part ive broken on my barracuda was the front right c-hub. and the only reason i broke them was because the track i raced at placed a dot in the sweeper that had a piece of 2x4 that couldnt been seen from the driver's stand.

the only thing i picked up a lot of are the screws that go underneath the c-hub. i think they're called the king pin screws. i switched my cuda ones to the tamiya ones so i didnt need to use the flange tubes with it. worked out great. i race at socal so nothing really breaks.. just screws come loose and if im not paying attention i lose a screw here and there. i check my car now after every heat to make sure i dont lose any. it's an AWESOME car and you'll get awesome support from Steve at SpeedTechRC.
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Old 12-01-2003, 08:30 PM   #7618
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Default Re: Re: Re: @hermi

Quote:
Originally posted by Ko Racer
have you tried to run any of the weights down the center of the chassis?
I have a couple there, only next to the speedo and reciever though as I didn't want any of them touching the cells. If I had had more time I probably would have removed the top deck and placed them neater, trying to get more along the center of the chassis but I didn't so it was a case of place em where you can with resonable neatness.

Can't put any to the rear of the motor mount, they would stop you getting to the lower motor mount screw There are a couple of 5g weights next to the motor on the outer edge of the chassis and one next to the servo and left side steering post. Then one right in the middle of the two steering posts.

Will have to go to the tyre shop and get some more to place on better. Should atleast try and race somewhere close to the regulation weight Then again I may just remove those on the battery side

Managed 3rd tonight, was quite happy with it, the other two were just taking a slightly better line and more consistantly. I had a bit of clear ground behind me. The final I pulled out of though I know I said I wanted to try the car without spacers on the rear hubs but I didn't mean on one side in the middle of a race

Drove the Pro 2 of the guy no one can catch in my club and he drove my car. Was interesting, I hated his tranny, I couldn't move my thubg enough to get full left hand lock. His car was very smooth in acceleration, he said the Cuda was a rocket but top speed is the same. His Pro 2 was a bit smoother in the corners, this is where he gets his speed I think, it's not as quick at the turn in but mid corner and beyond it's on rails and can get on the power earlier, although he needs to with the lack of punch he has. We had a little race, we were still fast with each others cars, yet again he edged ahead though ahwell, I'm getting closer....
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Old 12-02-2003, 11:50 AM   #7619
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Default King Daddy race anyone? Need Help

Need help getting a part for my cuda. Anyone going to the KDR race at Freedom Park? I'm in dire need for an R2 bevel input gear? If I don't get one by this weekend I'll have to run my TC3 I'd rather run my CUDA
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Old 12-02-2003, 11:54 AM   #7620
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Default Re: King Daddy race anyone? Need Help

Quote:
Originally posted by azzrael
Need help getting a part for my cuda. Anyone going to the KDR race at Freedom Park? I'm in dire need for an R2 bevel input gear? If I don't get one by this weekend I'll have to run my TC3 I'd rather run my CUDA
Call Speedtech, if you're in SoCal, it should get to you tomorrow if you order today.
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