JIMC

any suggestion for my servo fit problem???

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

JIMC,

Most standard servo should fit the car without a problem. I had KO, Airtronics, Futaba all fit on the car. Make sure the servo mounting blocks are installed correctly, and make sure that steering linkage that connects to the servo is the correct length (this will ensure that you're installing the servo with the servo gear/horn towards the outter edge of the chassis)

I looked up your JR servo in comparison with an Airtronics servo that I used, and the dimension is actually smaller on the JR (however, I'm not sure if they include in the measurement the "nose" you're talking about)

If the "nose" is causing problem, and you don't have any other servos to try, you can try shaving the back part of the steering arm, and also try a different servo horn that might be thinner.
You can also try putting servo on the back side of the servo mounting blocks and screw it securely from the back side (instead of screwing in from the front right now as per the instruction) this will buy you quite a bit of space away from the steering bellcrank arms, and you might have to turn the ballstud on the servo horn the other way to reach the steering linkage and maintain the right steering linkage angle.

Steve wang

Steve Wang

JIMC

Thanks Steve

I believe the servo mounts are installed correctly

Herminator

Any one know what yokomo 250weight oil is closest to?

Has anyone placed their personal transponder on top of an alloy transponder mount and had any problems with missed laps? I know when I fitted my alloy battery strap it started blocking the signel from a hand out tranasponder that was sitting above it, mounted in the shell windscreen, but then the signal also had to go through cells and graphite.

John_S

hey guys was jsut wodnering what gearing you arte using on your 27t motors i run an mvp on a tight track with some small straights and the car was lacking a bit of top end im running a 70 spur and 23t pinion
Thanks for any help

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

U know it man I've been happy with every purchase I've made at Speedtech...

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

250=roughly 20wt.

Herminator

Well I've not used an MVP before (heard too many overheating problems) but it's got to be more torquey than the Matrix and GM3 I use. I gear my Matrix at 69/22 or 21 depending on the track, it likes to rev and we have a fairly large sports hall. Your gearing sounds about right, maybe you could go up a tooth if you're lacking top end, I hear lots of MVP users are unsure of gearing because it runs hot all the time

Herminator

cheers, now I'm wondering if I really need fast weight transfer indoors, may over load tyres too quickly. Hmm.... decisions decisions

John_S

ye it gets real hot after a run i cant even look at it without burnin sumthin...well i think im gona tyry and get a putnam monster if i can get them to send 1 to scotland or see if they have a uk distributer failiung that i will just get a fantom and mayb some putnam brushes

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I'd think it would help a little bit, since you dont have the traction there to help weight transfer...

Herminator

hmm, thats what I was thinking but I'll probably have to go stiffer on the front, already getting too much weight transfer into/mid corner.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I'd think you'd want a balanced car from front to rear on a low traction surface. I usually try to keep the same spring rates on my cars, just makes them more predictible in my mind...

JIMC

I notice the R2 does not come with the set screws used to set the droop.
What size would they be and who might I get them from
Thanks

cHckbOY5

i sanded the chassis but i could still see graphite lines... how much am i suppose to sand?