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Old 08-16-2003, 11:21 PM   #3211
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After driving the R2, TC3, and SD, I really dont think it matters which side the batts are on...
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Old 08-16-2003, 11:24 PM   #3212
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Quote:
Originally posted by RBLove
JFCTech,

Torque steer should be a lot less noticeable on the R2. The TC3 and other cars are trying to get their batteries in extremely close to the shaft to help with the torque steer. The R2 has motor left and batteries close to shaft. To me it seems like best case scenario.............. BTW. I am not an R2 owner nor have NEVEr seen one. So this is a very biased opinion.

Rob Love
Just wondering if it is the best case scenario, why did the designer of the Tamiya EVO 3 moved it to the left side unlike the location on the EVO2?
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Old 08-16-2003, 11:25 PM   #3213
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Quote:
Originally posted by elnitro
Just wondering if it is the best case scenario, why did the designer of the Tamiya EVO 3 moved it to the left side unlike the location on the EVO2?
Seriously... I can't tell a difference in handling...
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Old 08-16-2003, 11:52 PM   #3214
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Quote:
Originally posted by jfc_tech
Hi there friends...im new at this....planning to buy shaft driven kit...can anyone tell me why R2 still using motor on the left and evo 3, Yokomo SD & TC3 on the right...any advantages? thanks for clearing this up.
Right side batt placement on chassis is better for clockwise flow tracks because right hand turns are dominant and when weight is inside, meaning right part of chassis, it keeps the wieght in rather than out, especially on long sweepers. I use to drive a TC3 and now an R2, torque steer is not an issue. We run 8x2 motors every practice day in our local track and never had or felt any torque steer. I am not a PRO level driver or won't even come close to expert level racing (I'm using U.S. standard for basis on skill level) but I can definitely say that the R2 to is a great car, sometimes I wonder how come a car laid out so simple interms of design can be hooked up so much at still have tons of steering. Until now, I haven't changed anything on my car except for the alloy shaft holders and alloy c-hubs. Out of the box, the car is excellent. I just tune the car by changing the shock positions. The chassis reacts very well to small tuning changes. It is also a good beginner's car because it's really tough built like a tank but fast
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Old 08-17-2003, 12:14 AM   #3215
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Just wondering if it is the best case scenario, why did the designer of the Tamiya EVO 3 moved it to the left side unlike the location on the EVO2?
Evo2 have big torque steering problem. It caused by bad designs and Tamiya blame on motor location. Then, they copy Associated's theory and moved the motor to the other side on Evo3.

Quote:
Hi there friends...im new at this....planning to buy shaft driven kit...can anyone tell me why R2 still using motor on the left and evo 3, Yokomo SD & TC3 on the right...any advantages? thanks for clearing this up.
Nope, both sides are equal. What Fatboy Joe said is also Associated's theory. Which is also true, but left and right still equal.

Last edited by Aku-Man; 08-17-2003 at 12:43 AM.
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Old 08-17-2003, 12:32 AM   #3216
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fatboy Joe
Right side batt placement on chassis is better for clockwise flow tracks because right hand turns are dominant and when weight is inside, meaning right part of chassis, it keeps the wieght in rather than out, especially on long sweepers. I use to drive a TC3 and now an R2, torque steer is not an issue. We run 8x2 motors every practice day in our local track and never had or felt any torque steer. I am not a PRO level driver or won't even come close to expert level racing (I'm using U.S. standard for basis on skill level) but I can definitely say that the R2 to is a great car, sometimes I wonder how come a car laid out so simple interms of design can be hooked up so much at still have tons of steering. Until now, I haven't changed anything on my car except for the alloy shaft holders and alloy c-hubs. Out of the box, the car is excellent. I just tune the car by changing the shock positions. The chassis reacts very well to small tuning changes. It is also a good beginner's car because it's really tough built like a tank but fast
If you build the car right, you should be able to get 50/50 side to side balance...
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Old 08-17-2003, 03:50 AM   #3217
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does steve do special orders if we want sumthign specific from japan?
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Old 08-17-2003, 04:17 AM   #3218
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
If you build the car right, you should be able to get 50/50 side to side balance...
Yep, that's what I make sure all the time Btw, do you know if the Yokomo Titanium screw set will work with the R2? I saw some on my LHS. Thanks
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Old 08-17-2003, 06:54 AM   #3219
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fatboy Joe
Yep, that's what I make sure all the time Btw, do you know if the Yokomo Titanium screw set will work with the R2? I saw some on my LHS. Thanks

I think steve is going to carry the ti(torx) screws for the alex car
you might ask him.
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Old 08-17-2003, 08:07 AM   #3220
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Quote:
Originally posted by cHckbOY5
does steve do special orders if we want sumthign specific from japan?
Steve can get about 85%~90% of the stuff thats out there for the Barracuda R2...but you`ll have to ask him to see if he can get that specific item that you are looking for..
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Old 08-17-2003, 09:19 AM   #3221
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fatboy Joe
Yep, that's what I make sure all the time Btw, do you know if the Yokomo Titanium screw set will work with the R2? I saw some on my LHS. Thanks
Some will fit, but you wont get an entire screw set out of it...
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Old 08-17-2003, 02:43 PM   #3222
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ive never worked on woven graphite b4, the filing n the glue part seem hard... n the other supplemental parts too on the website seem hard
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Old 08-17-2003, 02:54 PM   #3223
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Quote:
Originally posted by cHckbOY5
ive never worked on woven graphite b4, the filing n the glue part seem hard... n the other supplemental parts too on the website seem hard
sanding the edges of the graphite does take a long time and is a pain but it's well worth it once you're done and it's nicely glued up at the edges. I've sliced my finger open a couple of times on a chassis that wasn't prepped and it's not nice plus it looks nicer when done.
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Old 08-17-2003, 05:45 PM   #3224
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how much is that blitz body at the PAL website?... i like the exhaust tip
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Old 08-17-2003, 11:24 PM   #3225
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Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
sanding the edges of the graphite does take a long time and is a pain but it's well worth it once you're done and it's nicely glued up at the edges. I've sliced my finger open a couple of times on a chassis that wasn't prepped and it's not nice plus it looks nicer when done.
I've never cut a finger, but I have chipped the chassis away because it wasn't sealed...
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