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Old 08-12-2003, 04:00 PM   #2806
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i'm back from holiday..
what hop ups would be nice for my xplosion?
here is what i thought:
alu center shaft holders
some springs
sway bars
alu batteryholder
6,8mm toe adjust balls
alu wheel hubs
ti turnbuckles
shock quick screw set
alu hub carriers?
ceramic diff balls?

does anybody know the part number of the hpi shock pistons?

what do u think about replacing some steelscrews with red alloy ones? i think the top deck screws M3x10 and the screws witch holde the shocktower. but what about the screws oneway-gear screws? or the spurgear screws? would alloy break?
should i go with the ti screw set?

plz help
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Old 08-12-2003, 04:00 PM   #2807
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
The reason for mounting the pivot balls upside down is mainly the ease of adjustment, you can see the notch in the pivot ball at all times.
I'll have to do that to mine...
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Old 08-12-2003, 04:02 PM   #2808
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Quote:
Originally posted by TC3
.....what do u think about replacing some steelscrews with red alloy ones? i think the top deck screws M3x10 and the screws witch holde the shocktower. but what about the screws oneway-gear screws? or the spurgear screws? would alloy break?
should i go with the ti screw set?

plz help
Stay away from alum. screws...the break easy..and when they do..they're hard to get out.
go with some stainless steel hex or Ti hex screws....
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Old 08-12-2003, 04:10 PM   #2809
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
I'll have to do that to mine...
Look out, you need to tap the pivot ball all the way through, for some reason the threads at the very top of the ball do not mesh with the rest, I learned this 2 titanium screws later
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Old 08-12-2003, 04:11 PM   #2810
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You can use aluminum screws in low-no stress areas. Be sure to use a little grease on the threads before you screw it in though, otherwise it may seaze and break when you try to remove it.
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Old 08-12-2003, 04:33 PM   #2811
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Quote:
Originally posted by racenut123
I am looking to buy an R2...Anyone have one for sale?Ko racer?Thanks!
i dont have anything to sell at the this time

check with steve at speedtech
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Old 08-12-2003, 04:35 PM   #2812
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Quote:
Originally posted by TC3
i'm back from holiday..
what hop ups would be nice for my xplosion?
here is what i thought:
alu center shaft holders
some springs
sway bars
alu batteryholder
6,8mm toe adjust balls
alu wheel hubs
ti turnbuckles
shock quick screw set
alu hub carriers?
ceramic diff balls?

does anybody know the part number of the hpi shock pistons?

what do u think about replacing some steelscrews with red alloy ones? i think the top deck screws M3x10 and the screws witch holde the shocktower. but what about the screws oneway-gear screws? or the spurgear screws? would alloy break?
should i go with the ti screw set?

plz help
Looks like a very nice hop up list, I wouldn't use aluminium screws though, stupid things with no use at all. Go for titanium screws to lighten the car, and get rid of the annoying philips head screws.
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Old 08-12-2003, 04:42 PM   #2813
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Thats a very interesting looking chassis, machining out the graphite to lower the alloy parts is interesting, wil lower CG nicely but unless it's 2.8-3mm graphite, I'd worry about the strength of the chassis, even on thick graphite you're adding some serious stress points.
Spur gear looks reasonably ok to get to, plenty of screws but nothing fiddly and less worry about tweaking the chassis and drive train.
I hope thats the chassis they are going to use on the Excel Edition R2, if it is then I may have to get one as a mod car for next season not in black though....
Come on Dave you should know the deal, I'm shocked that you didn't post these pics first infact I'm stunned
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Old 08-12-2003, 04:52 PM   #2814
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I think that the PAL chassis is a 3mm chassis. The recesses in the chassis propably drop those areas down to 2.5mm. Reason bieng is to put the motor in the stock position. They can't go lower than 2.5 in those areas because the motor would scrape, and higher would ruin the CG.
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Old 08-12-2003, 05:05 PM   #2815
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
I think that the PAL chassis is a 3mm chassis. The recesses in the chassis propably drop those areas down to 2.5mm. Reason bieng is to put the motor in the stock position. They can't go lower than 2.5 in those areas because the motor would scrape, and higher would ruin the CG.
i think it would have more to do with the gear then the motor.
my speedway pal is lowered 2mm and i have to run a smaller gear and it still gets caught at times threw the bottom of the chassis
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Old 08-12-2003, 05:11 PM   #2816
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Are the older style PAL cars lowered as well?
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Old 08-12-2003, 05:15 PM   #2817
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
Are the older style PAL cars lowered as well?
they are if you shave the bulkheads down 2mm


here is a photo of the 2 i have going now the red is still wating a few parts from steve
Attached Images
File Type: jpg cudas 001.jpg (171.9 KB, 87 views)
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Old 08-12-2003, 05:43 PM   #2818
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How do the PAL cars drive compared to the stock R2?
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Old 08-12-2003, 05:52 PM   #2819
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
How do the PAL cars drive compared to the stock R2?

there about the same the difference is the arms and im running excel hubs and really like them alot as for tunning with the set-ups.
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Old 08-12-2003, 05:58 PM   #2820
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I forgot about the short span arms, do you need to run a stiffer spring with them?
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