R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-07-2003, 09:07 PM   #2581
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Headbanger
What pistons are you using? Hopefully not the black ones off the parts tree. There should have been white teflon ones in your kit. I found some HPI #2 with bigger holes.
Unfortunately the Web Special doesn't include the teflon pistons, it has everything else, just not the pistons
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2003, 09:17 PM   #2582
Tech Adept
 
NMRCDude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 209
Send a message via AIM to NMRCDude
Default

Rc-Zombies, feel free to post some pictures during the remaining building process (if your still building it)
NMRCDude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2003, 09:29 PM   #2583
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

My web special should be finished in a week or so as well. Got it about 2 months ago, but PAL lags on anodizing parts orange
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2003, 01:32 AM   #2584
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,542
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Exclamation To any CUDA freaks wanting to run the yok Bladder caps....

The yok bladder is the one to use, problem with the rayspeed is they are a little thinner on the lip, our caps cannot tighten enough to make a good seal cause of the oring lip on the shock body, the aluminum cap bottoms out against this lip so the more material on the bladder the better. you will of course need to remove the oring on top.
Also building from the bottom works really well, fill body, pull piston all the way against the cartridge, and insert, comes out even every time, with this procedure they seal quite well

oh and you will also need to have a set of short shock bodies for the rear shocks.
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2003, 01:58 AM   #2585
Tech Master
 
Maj. Teeth's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,130
Default First Test drive

Ok, just got back from an afternoon of testing the new Web Cuda down at Socal. THIS CAR HALLS!

Thanks to RBF, the setup was not changed and remain the way it is and drove very nicely. I only found a little push so chances are, changing the shock oils to 30wt all around or using one step softer in springs should cure this problem. The car was noisy in the beginning, but RBF help me fix that by shimming the diffs. "Thanks again RBF!".

Anyway, like a novice driver, I ran over a few dots during the first couple of packs and the car responded actively without spinning out so its pretty much planted. I'm sure this is solve since RBF helped with the the droop setting afterward. Overall, this car is really nice and extremely fast. It does carry a ton of corner speed and then some with it's double one-ways (front and center).

I've notice that the eccentric pillow balls do come loose and the tick marks will be way off once it's loose so those who are running these, you have to constantly check it after each time, but no biggie as soon as you crank it down a few times it'll stay. It's amazing how stiff the shocks are with 40wt and the 6.00 springs.

Lastly, those EL CHEAPO wheel hex must GO! man! I've had to pry them off the wheels a few time and they come loose much too easy when you want them to stay or get stuck in the wheels when you don't want them. I still can't get over the fact that spending this kind of money, A/R didn't inlude the Orange clamp one hex nuts. I'd given up the swaybars in exchange for the clamp hex. That'll be my next/immediate purchase. LOL.. Oh well, at least I got a full set of Squat Racing DRY bearings coming from Japan.

Dan
Maj. Teeth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2003, 02:00 AM   #2586
Tech Master
 
Maj. Teeth's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,130
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
Just got done assembling the shocks...
and in the process almost lost one of the those spacers and wire spring clip. luckily I found them.

It's not as silky smooth compared to the Yok SD shocks. the shock shaft doesn't move in & out smoothly. Feels like something is clamping around it... is it the 1mm spacer? I used the clear O-rings and also applied the usual green slime on it. Is the 1mm spacer neccessary?

Please advice...thanks.
Strange, mine's are really smooth and felt even better then the SD ones. I'm sure you've built them per instruction. I've notice that you really have to press down on the housing to get it fitted before you snap the C-rings on.

Dan
Maj. Teeth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2003, 02:02 AM   #2587
Tech Master
 
Maj. Teeth's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,130
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
HPI #2piston....
and I didn't find any white teflon ones..

I'm going take them apart again and rebuild... I did notice that the plastic part ( the first part that goes in ) is not totally flush. I may have to push that part in harder...
Your right. nope, nada, none. I've looked thinking its got to be there somewhere. Did end up finding some HPI #2 from the Pro 3 box. LOL. Probably same with you huh?

Dan
Maj. Teeth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2003, 02:07 AM   #2588
Tech Master
 
Maj. Teeth's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,130
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
the 1mm spacer is the one sandwich between the O-rings... I think I found the culprit...yes its the first plastic part that shows. It was not pushed out all the way. and was at an angle making it tight.... now all 4 are a little smoother. Still not as smooth as Yokomo shocks... I think I'll swap out the clear O-ring and replace them with Rayspeed yellow O-rings... which were silky smooth on my SD. Yea... bleeding the shocks is a pain... I'm going to go with the New Yok caps and RaySpeed bladders.

would like to see Dave's shock photos... that would be helpful...and there's too many pages to search for it..
Ramon,

What I did was built the shocks before anything else and I fill the bodies upside down and then place the bottoms on. Let it sit overnight without bleeding, then in the moring, bled the oils while pushing the shaft in slowly and all the way, then tighten the bleed screw. Works great! and all compress the same length and action with a slight 2mm rebound only. Its a lot easier then the XRAY shocks honest.

Dan
Maj. Teeth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2003, 09:01 AM   #2589
Tech Champion
 
rc-zombies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: NorCal. Napa area
Posts: 7,212
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by NMRCDude
Rc-Zombies, feel free to post some pictures during the remaining building process (if your still building it)
too late...I'm pretty much done...just have to fill the shocks with oil, install the electronics...then off to the track.... Randman might be able to take some pics of the building process.... He's yet to assemble his Web.

I built my shocks with Rayspeed bladders... Silky smooth!

Dan... glad to here the car is handling well.... I did find some #2 HPI pistons. and for the Hex hubs... get some Yok Clamping hex hubs...they fit....
__________________
HB WCE HARA EDITION CYCLONE: LRP Sphere TC, KO 2363 digital servo.
HB HARA EDITION PRO4: Gone to a new home..

SPEEDTECH|FUTABA|KO|ORION|SPEEDWORLD|HARA
rc-zombies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2003, 09:17 AM   #2590
Tech Champion
 
JDM_DOHC_SiR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Chula Vista, CA
Posts: 9,070
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
Unfortunately the Web Special doesn't include the teflon pistons, it has everything else, just not the pistons
are you sure about that Randy..??? I could have sworn that they came with Teflon Pistions

-Dave
__________________
Ȼ4.5 Centro+α ◊ TRF 501ӽ ◊ TRF 502ӽs ◊ TRF 503 ◊ TRF 511 ◊ TRF 201ӽr ◊ TRF 211ӽ
B5m ◊ T5m ◊SC5m ◊ B64deez nutz
Speedway PAL ◊ SDRC ◊ Shop UFO ◊ SMC
JDM_DOHC_SiR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2003, 09:24 AM   #2591
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default Re: First Test drive

Quote:
Originally posted by Maj. Teeth
Ok, just got back from an afternoon of testing the new Web Cuda down at Socal. THIS CAR HALLS!

Thanks to RBF, the setup was not changed and remain the way it is and drove very nicely. I only found a little push so chances are, changing the shock oils to 30wt all around or using one step softer in springs should cure this problem. The car was noisy in the beginning, but RBF help me fix that by shimming the diffs. "Thanks again RBF!".

Anyway, like a novice driver, I ran over a few dots during the first couple of packs and the car responded actively without spinning out so its pretty much planted. I'm sure this is solve since RBF helped with the the droop setting afterward. Overall, this car is really nice and extremely fast. It does carry a ton of corner speed and then some with it's double one-ways (front and center).

I've notice that the eccentric pillow balls do come loose and the tick marks will be way off once it's loose so those who are running these, you have to constantly check it after each time, but no biggie as soon as you crank it down a few times it'll stay. It's amazing how stiff the shocks are with 40wt and the 6.00 springs.

Lastly, those EL CHEAPO wheel hex must GO! man! I've had to pry them off the wheels a few time and they come loose much too easy when you want them to stay or get stuck in the wheels when you don't want them. I still can't get over the fact that spending this kind of money, A/R didn't inlude the Orange clamp one hex nuts. I'd given up the swaybars in exchange for the clamp hex. That'll be my next/immediate purchase. LOL.. Oh well, at least I got a full set of Squat Racing DRY bearings coming from Japan.

Dan
Dan, I told you that this car was awesome I'm going to try it out in mod, doesnt seem like many people have yet, but I think with some swaybar action I can get the car planted. The only downside to everyone having web editions, is now mine isn't so popular
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2003, 09:24 AM   #2592
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
are you sure about that Randy..??? I could have sworn that they came with Teflon Pistions

-Dave
Mine didn't, and it doesnt sound like either of the ones Steve got did either...
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2003, 09:26 AM   #2593
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Maj. Teeth
Ramon,

What I did was built the shocks before anything else and I fill the bodies upside down and then place the bottoms on. Let it sit overnight without bleeding, then in the moring, bled the oils while pushing the shaft in slowly and all the way, then tighten the bleed screw. Works great! and all compress the same length and action with a slight 2mm rebound only. Its a lot easier then the XRAY shocks honest.

Dan
If you build the shocks upside down, you dont have to wait overnight, or even 30 seconds, there are no air bubbles that can get trapped, that's the beautiful thing about our shocks.
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2003, 09:26 AM   #2594
Tech Champion
 
rc-zombies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: NorCal. Napa area
Posts: 7,212
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
are you sure about that Randy..??? I could have sworn that they came with Teflon Pistions

-Dave
nope.... no white teflon pistons in my kit...
__________________
HB WCE HARA EDITION CYCLONE: LRP Sphere TC, KO 2363 digital servo.
HB HARA EDITION PRO4: Gone to a new home..

SPEEDTECH|FUTABA|KO|ORION|SPEEDWORLD|HARA
rc-zombies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2003, 09:28 AM   #2595
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

rc zombies - YGPM
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
WTB Alex Racing Barracuda R2 & R3 Funkymojo R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 02-03-2007 01:00 PM
alex racing barracuda con81 Electric On-Road 1 12-14-2005 03:36 AM
WTT: Alex Racing Barracuda R2 for PS2 AZ_Ron Other Items: For Sale/Trade or Wanted to Buy 0 02-13-2005 07:30 PM
Alex Racing Barracuda R3-New. rcracing1973 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 9 04-11-2004 08:29 AM
Alex Racing Barracuda Bugs Bunny Singapore R/C Racers 6 01-22-2003 11:47 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:26 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net