5LikesAlex Racing Barracuda R2 & R3
08-07-2003, 08:07 PM
#2581
Originally posted by Headbanger
What pistons are you using? Hopefully not the black ones off the parts tree. There should have been white teflon ones in your kit. I found some HPI #2 with bigger holes.
What pistons are you using? Hopefully not the black ones off the parts tree. There should have been white teflon ones in your kit. I found some HPI #2 with bigger holes.
08-07-2003, 08:17 PM
#2582
Rc-Zombies, feel free to post some pictures during the remaining building process (if your still building it)
08-08-2003, 12:32 AM
#2584
To any CUDA freaks wanting to run the yok Bladder caps....
The yok bladder is the one to use, problem with the rayspeed is they are a little thinner on the lip, our caps cannot tighten enough to make a good seal cause of the oring lip on the shock body, the aluminum cap bottoms out against this lip so the more material on the bladder the better. you will of course need to remove the oring on top.
Also building from the bottom works really well, fill body, pull piston all the way against the cartridge, and insert, comes out even every time, with this procedure they seal quite well
oh and you will also need to have a set of short shock bodies for the rear shocks.
Also building from the bottom works really well, fill body, pull piston all the way against the cartridge, and insert, comes out even every time, with this procedure they seal quite well
oh and you will also need to have a set of short shock bodies for the rear shocks.
08-08-2003, 12:58 AM
#2585
First Test drive
Ok, just got back from an afternoon of testing the new Web Cuda down at Socal. THIS CAR HALLS!
Thanks to RBF, the setup was not changed and remain the way it is and drove very nicely. I only found a little push so chances are, changing the shock oils to 30wt all around or using one step softer in springs should cure this problem. The car was noisy in the beginning, but RBF help me fix that by shimming the diffs. "Thanks again RBF!".
Anyway, like a novice driver, I ran over a few dots during the first couple of packs and the car responded actively without spinning out so its pretty much planted. I'm sure this is solve since RBF helped with the the droop setting afterward. Overall, this car is really nice and extremely fast. It does carry a ton of corner speed and then some with it's double one-ways (front and center).
I've notice that the eccentric pillow balls do come loose and the tick marks will be way off once it's loose so those who are running these, you have to constantly check it after each time, but no biggie as soon as you crank it down a few times it'll stay. It's amazing how stiff the shocks are with 40wt and the 6.00 springs.
Lastly, those EL CHEAPO wheel hex must GO! man! I've had to pry them off the wheels a few time and they come loose much too easy when you want them to stay or get stuck in the wheels when you don't want them. I still can't get over the fact that spending this kind of money, A/R didn't inlude the Orange clamp one hex nuts. I'd given up the swaybars in exchange for the clamp hex. That'll be my next/immediate purchase. LOL.. Oh well, at least I got a full set of Squat Racing DRY bearings coming from Japan.
Dan
Thanks to RBF, the setup was not changed and remain the way it is and drove very nicely. I only found a little push so chances are, changing the shock oils to 30wt all around or using one step softer in springs should cure this problem. The car was noisy in the beginning, but RBF help me fix that by shimming the diffs. "Thanks again RBF!".
Anyway, like a novice driver, I ran over a few dots during the first couple of packs and the car responded actively without spinning out so its pretty much planted. I'm sure this is solve since RBF helped with the the droop setting afterward. Overall, this car is really nice and extremely fast. It does carry a ton of corner speed and then some with it's double one-ways (front and center).
I've notice that the eccentric pillow balls do come loose and the tick marks will be way off once it's loose so those who are running these, you have to constantly check it after each time, but no biggie as soon as you crank it down a few times it'll stay. It's amazing how stiff the shocks are with 40wt and the 6.00 springs.
Lastly, those EL CHEAPO wheel hex must GO! man! I've had to pry them off the wheels a few time and they come loose much too easy when you want them to stay or get stuck in the wheels when you don't want them. I still can't get over the fact that spending this kind of money, A/R didn't inlude the Orange clamp one hex nuts. I'd given up the swaybars in exchange for the clamp hex. That'll be my next/immediate purchase. LOL.. Oh well, at least I got a full set of Squat Racing DRY bearings coming from Japan.
Dan
08-08-2003, 01:00 AM
#2586
Originally posted by rc-zombies
Just got done assembling the shocks...
and in the process almost lost one of the those spacers and wire spring clip.
luckily I found them. 
It's not as silky smooth compared to the Yok SD shocks. the shock shaft doesn't move in & out smoothly. Feels like something is clamping around it... is it the 1mm spacer? I used the clear O-rings and also applied the usual green slime on it. Is the 1mm spacer neccessary?
Please advice...thanks.
Just got done assembling the shocks...
and in the process almost lost one of the those spacers and wire spring clip.
luckily I found them. It's not as silky smooth compared to the Yok SD shocks. the shock shaft doesn't move in & out smoothly. Feels like something is clamping around it... is it the 1mm spacer? I used the clear O-rings and also applied the usual green slime on it. Is the 1mm spacer neccessary?
Please advice...thanks.
Dan
08-08-2003, 01:02 AM
#2587
Originally posted by rc-zombies
HPI #2piston....
and I didn't find any white teflon ones..
I'm going take them apart again and rebuild... I did notice that the plastic part ( the first part that goes in ) is not totally flush. I may have to push that part in harder...
HPI #2piston....
and I didn't find any white teflon ones..
I'm going take them apart again and rebuild... I did notice that the plastic part ( the first part that goes in ) is not totally flush. I may have to push that part in harder...
Dan
08-08-2003, 01:07 AM
#2588
Originally posted by rc-zombies
the 1mm spacer is the one sandwich between the O-rings... I think I found the culprit...yes its the first plastic part that shows. It was not pushed out all the way. and was at an angle making it tight.... now all 4 are a little smoother. Still not as smooth as Yokomo shocks... I think I'll swap out the clear O-ring and replace them with Rayspeed yellow O-rings... which were silky smooth on my SD. Yea... bleeding the shocks is a pain... I'm going to go with the New Yok caps and RaySpeed bladders.
would like to see Dave's shock photos... that would be helpful...and there's too many pages to search for it..
the 1mm spacer is the one sandwich between the O-rings... I think I found the culprit...yes its the first plastic part that shows. It was not pushed out all the way. and was at an angle making it tight.... now all 4 are a little smoother. Still not as smooth as Yokomo shocks... I think I'll swap out the clear O-ring and replace them with Rayspeed yellow O-rings... which were silky smooth on my SD. Yea... bleeding the shocks is a pain... I'm going to go with the New Yok caps and RaySpeed bladders.
would like to see Dave's shock photos... that would be helpful...and there's too many pages to search for it..
What I did was built the shocks before anything else and I fill the bodies upside down and then place the bottoms on. Let it sit overnight without bleeding, then in the moring, bled the oils while pushing the shaft in slowly and all the way, then tighten the bleed screw. Works great! and all compress the same length and action with a slight 2mm rebound only. Its a lot easier then the XRAY shocks honest.
Dan
08-08-2003, 08:01 AM
#2589
Originally posted by NMRCDude
Rc-Zombies, feel free to post some pictures during the remaining building process (if your still building it)
Rc-Zombies, feel free to post some pictures during the remaining building process (if your still building it)
too late...I'm pretty much done...just have to fill the shocks with oil, install the electronics...then off to the track.... Randman might be able to take some pics of the building process.... He's yet to assemble his Web.I built my shocks with Rayspeed bladders... Silky smooth!
Dan... glad to here the car is handling well.... I did find some #2 HPI pistons. and for the Hex hubs... get some Yok Clamping hex hubs...they fit....
08-08-2003, 08:24 AM
#2591
Re: First Test drive
Originally posted by Maj. Teeth
Ok, just got back from an afternoon of testing the new Web Cuda down at Socal. THIS CAR HALLS!
Thanks to RBF, the setup was not changed and remain the way it is and drove very nicely. I only found a little push so chances are, changing the shock oils to 30wt all around or using one step softer in springs should cure this problem. The car was noisy in the beginning, but RBF help me fix that by shimming the diffs. "Thanks again RBF!".
Anyway, like a novice driver, I ran over a few dots during the first couple of packs and the car responded actively without spinning out so its pretty much planted. I'm sure this is solve since RBF helped with the the droop setting afterward. Overall, this car is really nice and extremely fast. It does carry a ton of corner speed and then some with it's double one-ways (front and center).
I've notice that the eccentric pillow balls do come loose and the tick marks will be way off once it's loose so those who are running these, you have to constantly check it after each time, but no biggie as soon as you crank it down a few times it'll stay. It's amazing how stiff the shocks are with 40wt and the 6.00 springs.
Lastly, those EL CHEAPO wheel hex must GO! man! I've had to pry them off the wheels a few time and they come loose much too easy when you want them to stay or get stuck in the wheels when you don't want them. I still can't get over the fact that spending this kind of money, A/R didn't inlude the Orange clamp one hex nuts. I'd given up the swaybars in exchange for the clamp hex. That'll be my next/immediate purchase. LOL.. Oh well, at least I got a full set of Squat Racing DRY bearings coming from Japan.
Dan
Ok, just got back from an afternoon of testing the new Web Cuda down at Socal. THIS CAR HALLS!
Thanks to RBF, the setup was not changed and remain the way it is and drove very nicely. I only found a little push so chances are, changing the shock oils to 30wt all around or using one step softer in springs should cure this problem. The car was noisy in the beginning, but RBF help me fix that by shimming the diffs. "Thanks again RBF!".
Anyway, like a novice driver, I ran over a few dots during the first couple of packs and the car responded actively without spinning out so its pretty much planted. I'm sure this is solve since RBF helped with the the droop setting afterward. Overall, this car is really nice and extremely fast. It does carry a ton of corner speed and then some with it's double one-ways (front and center).
I've notice that the eccentric pillow balls do come loose and the tick marks will be way off once it's loose so those who are running these, you have to constantly check it after each time, but no biggie as soon as you crank it down a few times it'll stay. It's amazing how stiff the shocks are with 40wt and the 6.00 springs.
Lastly, those EL CHEAPO wheel hex must GO! man! I've had to pry them off the wheels a few time and they come loose much too easy when you want them to stay or get stuck in the wheels when you don't want them. I still can't get over the fact that spending this kind of money, A/R didn't inlude the Orange clamp one hex nuts. I'd given up the swaybars in exchange for the clamp hex. That'll be my next/immediate purchase. LOL.. Oh well, at least I got a full set of Squat Racing DRY bearings coming from Japan.
Dan
I'm going to try it out in mod, doesnt seem like many people have yet, but I think with some swaybar action I can get the car planted. The only downside to everyone having web editions, is now mine isn't so popular 
08-08-2003, 08:26 AM
#2593
Originally posted by Maj. Teeth
Ramon,
What I did was built the shocks before anything else and I fill the bodies upside down and then place the bottoms on. Let it sit overnight without bleeding, then in the moring, bled the oils while pushing the shaft in slowly and all the way, then tighten the bleed screw. Works great! and all compress the same length and action with a slight 2mm rebound only. Its a lot easier then the XRAY shocks honest.
Dan
Ramon,
What I did was built the shocks before anything else and I fill the bodies upside down and then place the bottoms on. Let it sit overnight without bleeding, then in the moring, bled the oils while pushing the shaft in slowly and all the way, then tighten the bleed screw. Works great! and all compress the same length and action with a slight 2mm rebound only. Its a lot easier then the XRAY shocks honest.
Dan
