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Old 12-29-2006, 07:34 AM   #1
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Default NEED BATTERY HELP "SOLDERING"

WHAT IS THE IDEAL HEAT RANGE FOR SOLDERING ON BATTERY CELLS I KNOW YOU HAVE TO HAVE ATLEAST 60 WATTS BUT MY SOLDERING STATION GOES IN HEAT RANGES FROM 200DEG TO 850DEG DOES NOT SHOW WATTAGES, THANKS AGAIN
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Old 12-29-2006, 07:37 AM   #2
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Its dificult to say temerature but its ideal for battery welding to have an iron around 100 watts
......... the higher the wattage the better.
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Old 12-29-2006, 07:53 AM   #3
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YEAH I JUST DONT KNOW HOW MANY WATTS IT PUTS OUT, I JUST KNOW THAT IT IS ADJUSTABLE I BOUGHT IT FROM RADIO SHACK ITS THERE TOP OF THE LINE, IT JUST DOES NOT SHOW WATTAGE BUT GOES FROM 200-850 DEG...
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Old 12-29-2006, 08:13 AM   #4
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Ideally you want it to get as hot as possible. In increments of 100degrees, ut solder to it, you want it to melt almost instantaneously. Put it at about 300 and then fgo up in 100 degree increments, leave about 5minutes for it to get up to the higher heat. Once the solder will melt instantaneouly, knock it up about another 40degrees and get soldering. Thats my opinion
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Old 12-29-2006, 09:05 AM   #5
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I WILL START OFF THERE, DO THE 1400 INTELLECT NEED THE TOPS TO BE SANDED FIRST BEFORE SOLDERING
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Old 12-29-2006, 09:16 AM   #6
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Every time you solder the cells you need to sand the area of where you want to solder. It gives the solder something to stick to. I use flux though, but is that ok?
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Old 12-29-2006, 09:36 AM   #7
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I ALSO HAVE FLUX SHOULD I SAND AND FLUX
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Old 12-29-2006, 09:52 AM   #8
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Typical electrical solders melt at 361 degrees F. That said, the temperature of the tip of the iron will drop rapidly when touched to the battery bar, which is made of copper and it a great heat sink. I'd experiment with at least 500 F and increase it if you find that you don't get very quick melting of solder. Heat is bad for the batteries and what will heat them up the most is taking too long to complete the task. An underpowered or underheated soldering iron will take too long to melt the solder and the battery will absorb more heat as a result. Clean the tip often with a damp rag or spong and retin it by melting some solder directly on the tip. This will ensure good heat transfer. If you use flux, make sure its electrical grade (rosin), not acid based for plumbing work.
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Old 12-29-2006, 11:14 AM   #9
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850's is good... i solder at 840 and it works
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Old 12-29-2006, 11:16 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hpipro321
850's is good... i solder at 840 and it works

I do the same thing. I've got the hakko 936 soldering station and i solder everything at the highest temperature (850 i think), i've built hundreds of packs for myself and others and never had a problem with that temperature setting. Also, i take a dremel tool and a sanding bit and i grind slightly each end of the battery, that way the solder has more surface to adhere to. If you've got that deans battery jig, that thing works wonders too. It has one of those little clips that holds the battery bars down for you, very nice device.
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Old 12-29-2006, 11:44 AM   #11
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Here's what i do with regard to soldering battery packs.

1) Use the Deans battery jig (makes life MUCH easier)
2) Smear a small amount of flux on the cell ends to be soldered
3) Tin the cell ends (the flux will allow the solder to flow across the cell end easier)
4) Put a small amount of flux on the battery bar (no solder)
5) Put the bar on the cell end using the jig for positioning
6) Apply heat from the iron which melts the flux, also melting the solder
7) Job done.

May seem funny not to put solder on the battery bars but I asure you guys that I have never had a pack fall apart and by doing the job this way, you end up with a very neat looking battery pack!

Hope that helps and all the best,

Chris.
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Old 12-29-2006, 12:08 PM   #12
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The radioshack model that you have is 80 watts. So put it at the highest temperature, and start building your pack. Good luck!
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Old 12-29-2006, 03:56 PM   #13
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THANKS FOR THE HELP I AM ALWAYS IN THE NITRO FORM FIRST TIME IN THE ELECTRIC AND MUCH QUICKER ANSWERS I MIGHT JUST SWITCH OVER..
THANKS AGAIN......
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Old 12-29-2006, 05:32 PM   #14
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Don't switch over!! I run both nitro and electric, on and off road. I run 1/10th Stock truck, 1/10th 4WD Mod, Electric Tourning car AND 1/8th scale buggy!
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Old 12-29-2006, 06:49 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRX4-R03
THANKS FOR THE HELP I AM ALWAYS IN THE NITRO FORM FIRST TIME IN THE ELECTRIC AND MUCH QUICKER ANSWERS I MIGHT JUST SWITCH OVER..
THANKS AGAIN......
Nitro guys don't solder battery packs much.
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