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Old 12-28-2006, 03:24 PM   #16
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ittjv hit it right on the money! My friend has a TB02R & those are the issues that he has, but he likes the car and was willing to throw in the extra money. Other than that, I would suggest buying a TA05 or look around for a good used EVOIV. Although, if you can handle paying about $400 for an EVOV, I would suggest going that route as it does come with a lot of hop ups on the car already. A friend of mine has one and he loves the car. I haven't drove it yet, to I can't tell you how it would compare to an EVOIV or TB02R.
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Old 12-28-2006, 07:51 PM   #17
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thanks for all the comments. that all helped a lot. I called tamiya and left a message yesturday and they didn't call me back so ii left another message today... one part of the site says it wasn't shipped. another part says it was and gives a valid ups tracking number... thing is I put in my credit card number and they didn't even charge me for it.. so if it is in transit then I got one free tbo2 coming.. hehe.. I might wait like 2 weeks to even open the box to see iif they call me. hey iits there mistake.. they should charge before they ship it.. lol
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Old 12-29-2006, 05:17 AM   #18
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Well i've raced mine for 3 years now, mostly in 27T...and it's a decent car. Practically its best trait is the fact that it's pretty resistant to dust (relative to more modern cars). The diffs can last long (if you don't strip the diff gears ) but that's about it. It's heavy and some of the plastic parts included are just totally worthless. Bought a TA05 this summer to replace it and never looked back... BTW, if they still run that "$275 for an original TRF415 with Legacy B4 body and heatsink motor mount" sale over at Tamiya USA you're better off buying that
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Old 12-29-2006, 04:48 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxnfx
ittjv hit it right on the money! My friend has a TB02R & those are the issues that he has, but he likes the car and was willing to throw in the extra money. Other than that, I would suggest buying a TA05 or look around for a good used EVOIV. Although, if you can handle paying about $400 for an EVOV, I would suggest going that route as it does come with a lot of hop ups on the car already. A friend of mine has one and he loves the car. I haven't drove it yet, to I can't tell you how it would compare to an EVOIV or TB02R.
Tamiya is selling their origional Evo4 for only 250 bucks!!!
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Old 12-30-2006, 06:05 PM   #20
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i dont know if they canceled my order yet or not but ill call them after new years and find out.. Im looking into getting the Tamiya TRF501X since it just came out and looks like it can hold up.
Went crusin with my jato today, went to some huge jumps where there were 2 huge puddles on both sides of the jump and after like 45mins of riding my car just did a huge flip right into the puddle upside down.. i was so pissed.. lol

but ya. car was covered in mud. Cleaned it all up. The tranmitter was sh*t cuz it got drenched... Went got a new one for $30 flushed the engine and now the cars runnin like new again. ha... was rippin down me blacktop street doin like 80mph right by my house.. lol

So whats the scoop on the Tamiya TRF501X??

The site says over $800.00 but i found a site selling it for like $350.00
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Old 12-30-2006, 11:17 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catchm3srt
So whats the scoop on the Tamiya TRF501X??

The site says over $800.00 but i found a site selling it for like $350.00
DO NOT buy from the Tamiya website unless you can't find it any where else! You MUST look into other places like www.speedtechrc.com FIRST! Tamiya sells a lot of it's stuff at full retail. I LOVE Tamiya's but I would never EVER pay full prices unless I had to. DO you have a LHS? That's the first place to start!
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Old 12-31-2006, 03:14 AM   #22
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ya. larrys performance. I'm gonna ask em today. I didn't plan on ordering it from online but thanks.
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Old 12-31-2006, 06:42 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ittjv
I have to chime in here, because I raced a TB-02R competitively for a few months and now my brother races it. It's a good beginner car, but if you plan to campaign it for a while, you're better off starting with a more modern platform. My biggest gripes:

1. The propeller shaft design is OLD! You have to shim it just right or youíll strip bevel or crown gears all day. Also, the kit doesnít come with these shims and the manual doesnít even mention you have to shim it.
2. The diff gears are weak. If you do end up buying it, buy the TB Evo IV Ball diff gears. They are thicker and wonít flex. You can also use the TB Evo IV one-way and gear. These gears wonít change your internal ratio and can be used with the stock crown (bevel) gear.
3. Fixed motor mount holes. You are STUCK using .06 Module (48 Pitch Metric) gears. It makes for a loud car, they are less efficient and it is difficult finding gears when youíre in a bind. You also have to use the TB-02 spur gears or TT-01 spur gears because of the design. You canít buy off the shelf spurs.
4. Diff outdrives. Buy the reinforced outdrives for the Evo III. Either the black ones or the white delrin ones. The stock TB-02 ball diff is a joke.
5. Screws. Get rid of the tapping screws and get yourself a Titanium screw kit or at least switch to machine screws.
I just bought a TB-02 that I plan on racing with the stock "silver can" motor.. I'm pretty new to racing, so I don't want to get into crazy motors just yet. Since I plan to use the stock Johnson 540 motor, do I still need better gears/better outdrives/shims for propeller shaft?

Also, how do I shim the prop shaft? And finally, how would I switch to machine screws from the self-tapping? Do you mean drill through each screw hole, use a machine screw and nut on the other end? Why? Do the screws strip out?

Thanks,
Jason
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Old 12-31-2006, 07:51 AM   #24
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bump..
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Old 12-31-2006, 08:47 AM   #25
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machine screws have a finer thread than self-tapping screws...on a standard TB-02 the machine screws are provided only for the steering posts (both top and bottom) if you want to take a look at it. I don't like self-tapping screws because Tamiya molded the TB-02 out of soft nylon which strips out easily (the screw won't bite into the plastic anymore) when using self-tapping (standard) screws. I got sick of the standard screw set so I just bought a set of hex-headed machine-thread screws for my car.

I broke the standard diff when driving with a silver can, so yeah...get an upgraded set of diff halves...either the nylon #50992 or the delrin #53627

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Old 12-31-2006, 08:58 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P956LH
machine screws have a finer thread than self-tapping screws...on a standard TB-02 the machine screws are provided only for the steering posts (both top and bottom) if you want to take a look at it. I don't like self-tapping screws because Tamiya molded the TB-02 out of soft nylon which strips out easily (the screw won't bite into the plastic anymore) when using self-tapping (standard) screws. I got sick of the standard screw set so I just bought a set of hex-headed machine-thread screws for my car.

I broke the standard diff when driving with a silver can, so yeah...get an upgraded set of diff halves...either the nylon #50992 or the delrin #53627

Cheers
Yes, I noticed the machine screws on the steering posts- I liked this too, as I knew it would be bulletproof- but, there are threaded metal inserts to receive the machine screws in those posts.. I'm sorry to continually ask, but I am still not quite sure how you will use machine screws for the other spots on the chassis where self-tapping screws were originally used? Will you through-drill each screw hole and put a nut on the other side? Machine screws are indeed finer threads, so if you just put in a machine screw where a self tap screw was, it will certainly strip..
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Old 12-31-2006, 10:10 AM   #27
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Hmm...i used machine screws where there used to be self-tapping screws and I haven't had any stripping problems since. I guess the thread is THAT much finer...cuts in between the old self-tapping thread. If you're that worried then buying a spare chassis might be wise...tap all the holes with a machine thread before screwing anything in...and be careful while screwing it in...you should feel the screw "click" into the tapped thread.
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Old 01-02-2007, 12:36 PM   #28
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Was reading the thread and stumbled on this..

TRF-415 combo listed on the Tamiya website for $275.

That seems like a heck of a deal to me.

You get a bone stock TA-05 for $120.. but just about everything on a carbon base with hopup motormount and a body set for $275.

Damm I need money.

James
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Old 04-05-2007, 10:45 PM   #29
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i personally like the TB02. i just like the way shaft drive cars are.
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Old 04-05-2007, 11:24 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catchm3srt
I just bought the RC Subaru Impreza WRC 2003 - TB02 from tamiyas site and i was wondering if that was a good choice. I dont really know much about electric yet. Just been racing my nitro cars.

So tell me what you think about it and is there price of $250.00 right?
I have an evo4 I can sell for a good price.
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