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Old 02-16-2006, 09:07 AM   #14971
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Default set-ups

anyone have a good set up for carpet ?
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Old 02-16-2006, 09:44 AM   #14972
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what you chattin about chubbspeterson?

you can do the hingepin thing on the current lcg and ssg cars. if u hadnt noticed all teh mounts are the same width, so if you use the rear mounts on the front (with the degree toe block on the very front) then you can change your front inboard toe out.
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Old 02-16-2006, 09:46 AM   #14973
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Maybe Tommy Kramer has just finish his course for Photoshop
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Old 02-16-2006, 01:37 PM   #14974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agower
what you chattin about chubbspeterson?

you can do the hingepin thing on the current lcg and ssg cars. if u hadnt noticed all teh mounts are the same width, so if you use the rear mounts on the front (with the degree toe block on the very front) then you can change your front inboard toe out.
Correct! You are! whats the diffrence between the mounts that bolt to the chassis from the middle of the block, or the once that bolt to the outer portions of the blocks.......Im not very smart as most people know....help please?
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Old 02-16-2006, 11:35 PM   #14975
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okay i went from shreadin front tires with a push, to pickin up the inside rear wheel.

now new problem, thing freaking traction rolls like a high rise suv tryin to drift !

i was thinking going to a stiffer rear spring? tires are front jaco double purple, rear TRC tan. im runnin some pretty hard compounds.

snagged TQ tonight, only car to hit 27laps, the yok gets faster every week, thanks everyone for ur setup help
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Old 02-17-2006, 02:56 AM   #14976
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Default team suzuki

Anybody know which online shops in Hongkong, Singapore, Korea or other far east country sells Team Suzuki parts. I am looking for the aluminum centre cups for my LCG and the rear hubs.
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Old 02-17-2006, 10:25 AM   #14977
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eazy...did you try to super glue the outside edges of the tires? also how much camber do you have in the car? and finaly, how tight are your circles?
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Old 02-17-2006, 11:28 AM   #14978
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no super glue, camber is -2.5 , circles ehh.... 4ft maybe..um 4.5 ? cant quite recall but i know i can turn a complete circle inside of a 7ft lane going both ways ,, but i sorta swing wide ,, so maybe that will sorta give u an idea ?

tire dia. is 58mm

im running 80% steering with 90% end points, -35 expo
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Old 02-17-2006, 01:37 PM   #14979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easy e
no super glue, camber is -2.5 , circles ehh.... 4ft maybe..um 4.5 ? cant quite recall but i know i can turn a complete circle inside of a 7ft lane going both ways ,, but i sorta swing wide ,, so maybe that will sorta give u an idea ?

tire dia. is 58mm

im running 80% steering with 90% end points, -35 expo
Superglue will give the side walls of the tires some firmness, the idea behind this is when the car enters a corner the sidewall of the tire flexes and the car traction rolls. If you use superglue be sure to put it on the tires then round the edges on a truer. If the supergule is the same height as the riding surface of the tire the car will spin out. I only use superglue in high traction because it will make the car push a little.
Camber is a little steep for carpet I usally go with 1 to 1.5, and I like to rotate the tires left to right after every run. This keeps tire ware even. camber is then tweeked a little to keep even tire ware. Circles are usallly around 5.5 to 6 ft. I know it seems like alot but if the set up is good that is all the steering you need. Think about when you drive a car into a corner and turn the wheel, the secound the car begins to react the car begins to "scrub" speed. The whole idea behind setup's on cars is to limit the "scrubing" feeling you get, and can sometimes hear in our cars.This is how you can still have huge amounts of steering with 6ft circles, good setup's are key!
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Old 02-17-2006, 11:17 PM   #14980
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the reason for the camber is i get alot of outter tire wear ..
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Old 02-19-2006, 04:43 AM   #14981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrUnlimited
Anybody know which online shops in Hongkong, Singapore, Korea or other far east country sells Team Suzuki parts. I am looking for the aluminum centre cups for my LCG and the rear hubs.
Nobody?
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Old 02-20-2006, 05:42 AM   #14982
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Default what?????

E-easy......did anything work for you?
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Old 02-20-2006, 05:50 AM   #14983
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Hi,

@MrUnlimited: Try Champ R/C. They have the best prices by far.
Besides them you could Futaba Pro Shop or RainbowTen.

Cheers
Chris
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Old 02-20-2006, 06:00 AM   #14984
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Default set up for cm

hi i race on outdoor asphalt track with very tight u turns and s sections it also has a big u shape straight i need help with the set up my car is quite heavy and need to get speed and good set up for state titles in 3 weeks i keep getting ripped by xrays fk 04 05 and t2 tc3 and bd's what can i do to my car to get it lighter and faster and handle better

atm i have rayspeed rear cbd the graphite front and rear arms and front and rear hubs yokomo oil threaded shocks front and rear but standard front and rear ball diffs and help would be great

the track i race has reasonalbe grip can be a little slippy when dusty we are on rubber only racing here and i will be running stock

please help
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Old 02-20-2006, 06:28 AM   #14985
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Hi,

from you signature I'd guess you are running a Yokomo Drift car. It shouldn't be a problem to make this car fast. In Germany there is (was) a race series which used this car under the label of "Keil Yokomo K5". And you can go pretty fast with these cars.
First I would suggest you a one-way. You will be able to carry a lot more corner speed and corner speed is exactly the point you want in stock.
Always keep your diffs and ball bearings in good condition. That's a point where you can win a lot but loose a lot aswell.
For the setup I would try something like this:

Springs: Yokomo Green (all around)

Oil: Depends on the track (start with 40wt and 3 holes drilled to 1.2mm)

Camber: 1 degree should work

Camber link: Perhaps you want to try to shorten the rear camber link by using the secon inner hole on the rear hub.
At the front you could try to mount the camber link as on the BD.

Damper position: At the front try the second outer hole on the damper stay and the second outer hole on the A-Arm. At the rear use the most outer hole on the A-Arm and the third hole on the damper stay.

Rear toe in: Try the 2 degree block. You will gain a bit of steering but loose some rear traction (on a flowing track that shouldn't be a problem).

Chassis stiffeners: The Drift car has more flex then the CGM but you could try to remove the front and/or the rear stiffeners to gain more traction and steering.

We raced the CGM (the graphite version of your car) outdoor and indoor and were always happy with the car. It was a bit heavy and if you wanted to have your weight lowered you had to spend a lot of money. At the end I was 1508g but with all the hop ups which look nice but don't have a big effect on your cars handling.

BTW: Don't spend to much money on the car with hop ups. Spend your money on new tires, batteries and motors. You will gain a lot more with that. Save your money and get the BD or LCG.

Cheers
Chris
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