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Old 01-31-2006, 11:48 PM   #14926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOTMAN
Steve at speedtechrc.com was looking into having a chassis made for the LCG. There is definitely interest in the chassis. A number of guys expressed interest. You should post an entry on the LCG thread to Speedtechrc to see where he stands. I got the impression it may be a while before they could work on the LCG chassis.
Hi Guys,

Sorry for the delay on the chassis, our other project is taking up the machine time and it will be about another 2 weeks before we finish up this project and start working on the LCG chassis.

On another note, we did get more Yokomo spare and hop-up parts in stock and the SD spools are still on sale (buy 1 get 1 free, basically you get two spool for the price of one $29.99)

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Old 02-01-2006, 06:48 AM   #14927
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Originally Posted by speedy-932
Hi,

perhaps some of you read in the BD thread and have seen that I will make a thicker carpet chassis for the BD.
I just want to ask you guys whether you are interested in one for the LCG aswell? I will make one for mine for sure but haven't made any drawings yet.
What are your expectations towards a new chassis?
I expect the chassis to be in the same price region as the Yokomo chassis (BD chassis is 85$)...

Cheers
Chris
I want one!! 3mm chassis, no cut outs on the servo and esc side, and remove the small cut outs around the diff area. And a solid upper deck.

Just my suggestion on mine when the time comes!!

For me, Since the batteries are getting bigger and heavier, then a no cut out section on the esc side will help a little in making things even. And the solid upper deck, will also help in the flex issue withthe added weight of the new generation batteries.
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Yokomo MR-4TC SD-sd-002l.jpg   Yokomo MR-4TC SD-sd-003l.jpg  

Last edited by lem2; 02-01-2006 at 07:07 AM.
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Old 02-01-2006, 07:35 AM   #14928
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I need the chassis.... where are my chassis....
wait... i want a narrower chassis too..

Last edited by aoizip; 02-01-2006 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 02-02-2006, 02:22 PM   #14929
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Originally Posted by seaball
- hubert crandall -

My man herb.........wait herb they will see the future of the SD soon enough.......soon enough........
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Old 02-03-2006, 10:44 PM   #14930
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my top plate 3mm

how can i acheive -1 anti dive ?

When running the chris tosolini carpets 2004 setup what shock length should i use ? i put 61.5mm in front and 62mm in back. is that good?

it says adjust droop according to tire size , my tire size is 59mm what drop should i run ?

while using the short shock ends in the front and the above shock length the most amount of drop i can get is 6mm ( meaning I cant achieve say 5mm or 4.5mm because my drop screw arent touching and im sitting at 6)

on the front c-hub and rear hub what is difference in using the upper and lower hing pin hole?

track is 65x36 9.8sec lap is blistering im lingering arround the mid 11's with 10.9 being veryy seldom. please please help the sd get a win !

Also I want to get a LCG kit because I like the aluminum bulk heads the lower drive train. I hear the LCG is flexy and I race on carpet , will I still be able to run the current top plate I have (in picture) with the LCG kit ? Does anyone have any noted performance changes in the LCG kit ?
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Last edited by easy e; 02-04-2006 at 11:23 AM.
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Old 02-04-2006, 06:50 AM   #14931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flysti
what??? a lap in the 6 second range... a 6 second lap how small is the track you are on? yeah only reason i ask this question is cause i have only had one shaft car in all the time racing & i thought it sucked. no it was not a yokomo. i beleive from what people are saying that the lcg is one of the only shaft cars that does not suffer from torque steer. is this true?
Well I've only run 19T and Stock in LCG and don't have any pull from motor torque. I remember running MOD in a TC3 years ago and it always managed to pull to one side.

Yes the track we have indoors is small but it's all I've got during the winter time.
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Old 02-04-2006, 12:13 PM   #14932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easy e
my top plate 3mm

how can i acheive -1 anti dive ?

When running the chris tosolini carpets 2004 setup what shock length should i use ? i put 61.5mm in front and 62mm in back. is that good?

it says adjust droop according to tire size , my tire size is 59mm what drop should i run ?

while using the short shock ends in the front and the above shock length the most amount of drop i can get is 6mm ( meaning I cant achieve say 5mm or 4.5mm because my drop screw arent touching and im sitting at 6)

on the front c-hub and rear hub what is difference in using the upper and lower hing pin hole?

track is 65x36 9.8sec lap is blistering im lingering arround the mid 11's with 10.9 being veryy seldom. please please help the sd get a win !

Also I want to get a LCG kit because I like the aluminum bulk heads the lower drive train. I hear the LCG is flexy and I race on carpet , will I still be able to run the current top plate I have (in picture) with the LCG kit ? Does anyone have any noted performance changes in the LCG kit ?
1} 1 deg of anti-dive is when the front suspension arm's pins angle downward. To achieve this remove the 1mm shims from the front suspension block. Leaving the 1mm spacers under the rear front suspension block. Toso acheived this by grinding down the old plastic mount. This was before the availability of the new mounts with spacers.

2} You will need to run the shock lengths long enough to achieve the droop you need. Start with 63.5mm in the front and 64mm in the rear.

3} You will want to run around 2mm of actual suspension lift in the front and 3mm to 4mm of suspension lift in the rear. Set your ride height and camber first. Say you want 5mm of ride height, and 2mm of suspension lift in the the front. You will want to place some support under the rear of the car so that the rear tires do not touch the tweek board. Place a support of 7mm (5mm + 2mm) high under the front of the car. Adjust the droop screws until the tires just touch the board. You now have 2mm of suspension lift, this is the correct droop. When your foam tires wear more or after you true them, you will need to adjust this once again. Do the same for the rear of the car (5mm + 3mm).

4} Lengthen your shocks, do not use the normal droop gauge for foam tires. Rubber tires do not wear that much, so the normal droop gauge is OK. Foam tires wear more, the suspension are will be the same angle but the tires will become smaller changing the amount the suspension changes.

5} Almost always the lower hole in the rear hub is used. Most of the time I would say the lower hole is used in front steering hub as well. Some times the upper hole is used in the front steering hub for some tuning. I believe the car becomes a little more twichy when the upper hole is used.

6} Practice, practice, practice. Try small changes.

7} Don't use the SD much anymore, perfer the BD, can't help you on that. I am sure there are a few guys on here that can help you with set-ups for the LCG. Good luck..
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Old 02-04-2006, 04:50 PM   #14933
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Quote:
On the LCG thicker chassis
Just to let everyone know, we did receive a call from one of your members about the possibility of doing this chassis and that he was reffered to us by Steve from Speedtech R/C. I am sorry that I have not been able to return his message should he see this. Anyway on the chassis we will look into it as I also belive that Steve at Speedtech is as well. We currently do not have a car available to us to do any development and we normally do not just duplicate existing designs so they do take longer for development, We also do not produce parts normally that will compete with our OEM customers if they do the parts before we have started production processing (ie Design and prototyping ready for production).

Custom work that we do, for informational sake, usually will take between 4-6 weeks to complete and can range from designing a part from scratch all the way to just cutting w/material. A full fleged production ready design can run in the $500-$750.00 range depending upon the accuracy wanted. A copy of a part which we cannot do if it is intended for production, due to copyrights, can range from $250 - $500.00. If someone were able to provide us with an accurate DXF file of the part that they wish to cut the parts usually will run from $70 - $200.00 depending upon the part. These are all very loose estimates and it really depends on how much work we have to do on this end, accuracy required, and size of the part.

As always after the design stages the more you cut the cheaper each part does get.

We don't yet have a website set up for our custom work however the design area email is [email protected]

Thank you
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Old 02-05-2006, 10:46 PM   #14934
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anyone have any tips for helping my car to stop eating front tires.

car is really fast and handles great, i have a slight push. would removing the front sway bar help maybe thinner front sway ? what about changing the front drop ? the tires are cyan for front and magenta's for the rear.. i put double pinks on the back and i had more push. . I could try tans on the rear. but mainly my fronts are wearing really fast and i have a push . so im afraid if i go harder tire up front i will have more push /
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Old 02-06-2006, 12:49 AM   #14935
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if your runnig a spool, try changing to a oneway or a diff even. this will get rid of some tire wear
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Old 02-06-2006, 08:35 AM   #14936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easy e
anyone have any tips for helping my car to stop eating front tires.

car is really fast and handles great, i have a slight push. would removing the front sway bar help maybe thinner front sway ? what about changing the front drop ? the tires are cyan for front and magenta's for the rear.. i put double pinks on the back and i had more push. . I could try tans on the rear. but mainly my fronts are wearing really fast and i have a push . so im afraid if i go harder tire up front i will have more push /
What springs are you running in front?
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:01 AM   #14937
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Sounds like your scrubbing at the front. Post your setup.
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:09 PM   #14938
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okay heres setup

Tires- cyan front and magenta rear - TRC
Sping and oil AE purple 50wt up front / AE copper 45et rear #3 yok pistons all arroud, bladder stock, SSS shocks
Front sway bar - bronze
0 toe -1.5 camber front / -3 camber rear
shock length 61.5mm with short end up front / 64mm with long end on rear.
droop 4mm all arround
gearing 23/75 monster stock
tire sauce jack da gripper
dual diffs
steering expo 75%
tire size 59mm
60x36 track is tight but flows well. lots of speed is carried all arround the track, carpet is wearing so bite isn't spectacular but a nice groove is laid down.(mostly from my fronts after practice sunday 9.8 is about as fast as it gets ,, i got laps down to 10.5

shock and camber mouting postions are in the pics below thanks for the replies

What is everyone remedy for all the slop in steering ? mainly the ackerman link I saw somewhere the LCG had a revised system . When can i pick this up online ? or know the part # ? "Yokomo. In an A-main near you!"
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PB210056.JPG (61.4 KB, 111 views)
File Type: jpg PB210055.JPG (41.1 KB, 97 views)

Last edited by easy e; 02-06-2006 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 02-06-2006, 08:49 PM   #14939
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Run Purple's and Plaid's....Parma's there a bit firmer than cyan and megenta's so you will lose a little grip.....the softer tires will wear more if the grip is low.....and part of racing on foams is tire wear....you just cant stop it. On X-rays we were eating rear tires twice as fast as fronts!
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Old 02-06-2006, 10:01 PM   #14940
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easy-e are you running a SSG? I see the SSG shock towers but can't tell what chassis you are running?
Parma Purple and Plaids should help as mentioned.
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