Yokomo MR-4TC SD

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  • Quote:
    Originally posted by sosidge
    Is anyone else on the board running the SD on a slippy floor with Schumacher minispike tyres?

    I'm still having real problems getting the car to work well when the grip is low, basically it has a tendency to hook the rear around mid corner, and then shake the tail under power. Combined with major understeer, which stops me even getting close to an apex at any kind of speed, it's making tuning the SD really frustrating.

    I race at two clubs, one has a grippier floor and the car is much more driveable, the other is slippier and the car is a real handful.

    This is using a Monster Stock by the way, so although the car is fast, it isn't stupidly overpowered (same power as the other cars who manage to get traction).

    I've tried hard springs and soft springs, stiffer front or stiffer rear, low roll centres and high roll centres, 1 degree camber and 2 degree camber.

    Any help - preferably from another slippy floor racer?

    I'm ALMOST ready to put my gear back into the Pro 3 - despite its flaws, it always stuck to the track (couldn't get the back end loose!)
    I don't think theres many people here who will be able to help you. For most here, the track surface is either asphalt or carpet. And to be honest, I mean you really can't blame the car for the setup problems your having. I'm sure Yokomo didn't plan on "slippery floor w/mini spikes" when they tried to design a good handling car.
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by futureal
    For those of you that are rotating the servo 90 degrees, are you mainly drilling a new hole in the chassis to accomodate the mounts, rather than just taping/gluing it in? I prefer to use the mounts whenever possible.

    I haven't really measured out a hole on mine yet, just looking to see how others have done it.

    Thanks!
    Well, I am using just a good old servo tape. I've clean a surface very well and using either Yokomo or Tamiya heat resistant servo tape. I have crushed many times but servo is still intact. I've choose servo tape because I actually want servo to come off after big crush to save my servo gear.
    D.
  • sosidge: How much tow are you runnig? how much droop? Try running more rear tow, and more droop (numericaly lower on guage) this will help with your rear grip. You can also try redusing you front grip (less steering) run less droop (numericaly higher on guage) less camber and No tow out or maybe a little tow in. Also running your ride heith the same front to rear should help. You can also try running a longer camber link in the rear that will also give you more grip as well as well as running the shocks on the inside hole of the arm. Just try one at a time Im sure you can fid the grip that you need and remember don't make extreme changes small changes can make a big differece. Good Luck.
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by futureal
    For those of you that are rotating the servo 90 degrees, are you mainly drilling a new hole in the chassis to accomodate the mounts, rather than just taping/gluing it in? I prefer to use the mounts whenever possible.

    I haven't really measured out a hole on mine yet, just looking to see how others have done it.

    Thanks!

    I drilled and countersunk mine. More secure than goo or servo tape.... I've had servos come loose before using servo tape.
  • I was origionally planning on running the second servo mount, but as I was cutting the single ear off, I went a little deep with the wire cutters and the whole thing snapped off... I am going to run shoe goo under the servo, as well as the single mount I have, I would run servo tape, but trying to keep the CG as absolutely low as possible on this car. I obviously drilled and countersunk the single hole though, just wish I still had a drill press to do it with, made it much easier than the stupid hand drill.

    I am focusing most of my attention to my B4 right now, going to put the SD aside for a little while, and build it when some of the parts come readily avalible for it (1 way, carbon driveshaft, beefier universals etc..) plus by running my B4, I will get my throttle control back much faster than I would with the SD, a dry, bumpy track with a 10x2 Reedy Kr definately makes you work the throttle more than a high-grip asphault track with an 8x2 would.
  • pucho - thanks for the suggestions - as it happens I'm already running a lot of rear droop (4mm at the chassis, i.e.you can lift the car 4mm before the wheels leave the ground), 3mm at the front. Running 3 deg rear toe. I've used springs as soft as white on the third hole out on the rear, and as stiff as orange on the 4th hole out, the harder setting makes the rear drift more controllable, but the softer setting still sees the car break loose and then tankslap more down the straight bits. I'll do some work on ride height, currently I run the rear 1/2mm higher out of habit. I feel that the SD upper links are already long.
  • sosidge: If it all fails Change tracks.

  • Darkseid, my Yok will be here by Wed of next week...I think Yokomo is invading Kansas....lol

    After meeting Chris and seeing his car work, I know I am sold. Been looking at getting a different car and am real excited to run one.

    Want to come to Topeka and race with you guys...will have to give me the hot setup for the SD! I will get you one for Wichita if you guys come down.

    Jeff
  • Also guys I tried to find the discussion on Spur gears...could not find it...lol What gears are you guys running in your SD? I will plan on running 48p but a list of what sizes will fit in both 48 and 64 would be great!

    Jeff Werner
  • If anyone is interested in a front Universal durability fix PM me.....still double checking the viability..but it looks very promising!! I believe 48 pitch goes prob from 66-84..although I have been told a 84 Kimbrough or Robinson (fatter gears) may rub on the bigger sizes. I have been running a 75 and have been real happy.
  • Jeff: I'll take a look at my car and see what my setup is and list it for you.

    I know for certain that the 84 tooth Kimbrough is to fat to be used on the car. Where it should fit down in the hole in the chassis, the gear holder holds it to far forward for it to go down in there properly. Now if you used a 84 tooth RW spur, it would definitely fit. I know getting a large gear in there is important to you Wichita guys cause you love that mod. racing!

    Before the kit came out, some people wondered why Yokomo decided to include a 70 tooth spur gear. My personal feelings on that is that that is about the largest gear that can still go along with their "change the spur without removing the upper deck" thing. Because, not many gears beyond 70tooth is going to make up through there.
  • Looking to get some Alum MIP CVD's for my new SD. I read where you can use the Mr4 cvds. Will a person need to order both a front and rear kit or because the arms are all the same do yuo need two sets of either front or back? Any info would be great!

    Jeff
  • I run a 102spur on one SD and 112 on the other. I think a 112 would be the biggest you could fit. Maybe a 113. Only problem with running large spurs is you have to take out the rear upper deck screws to pop the spur in and out. But that's no biggy.

    Jeff, you running stock or mod? Just curious. I posted my setup on like page 46. It was for stock. Car was hooked up in the cold weather we had last weekend in Durham. I'm gonna see how it does at my other track. It's more technical and the weather should be warmer. Only problem though is I run a oneway. So I'm not sure how it will handle with a diff. Hmmmmm maybe I'll try a diff out too tomorrow! Yeah!! haha...

    Well let me head out. I have some batteries to discharge tonight....

    Jimmy Mac
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by sosidge
    pucho - thanks for the suggestions - as it happens I'm already running a lot of rear droop (4mm at the chassis, i.e.you can lift the car 4mm before the wheels leave the ground), 3mm at the front. Running 3 deg rear toe. I've used springs as soft as white on the third hole out on the rear, and as stiff as orange on the 4th hole out, the harder setting makes the rear drift more controllable, but the softer setting still sees the car break loose and then tankslap more down the straight bits. I'll do some work on ride height, currently I run the rear 1/2mm higher out of habit. I feel that the SD upper links are already long.
    droop at one end of the car affects weight transfer to the other.

    so for more rear traction out of a corner, you'd want more front droop, not rear.

    what's the setup you have on the car atm?
  • KilRuf
    Are you going to save me a pit space for when I come down and practice ?? I was thinking about the june 5th or 12th.. are you guys having any big races thoes dates ?

    Thanks

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