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Old 01-08-2006, 11:29 AM   #14821
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Default ball stud part numbers

need to find the part numbers for the frt ball stud used as king pin on an lcg and the tall raer ones on the rear hub carriier - thanks
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Old 01-09-2006, 03:17 PM   #14822
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Looking forward to perhaps a chassis upgrade offered by Speedtech.

Going carpet racing this weekend. Raced last weekend as well. The car was ok actually and I got compliments on the way the car handled. You know the looks good statements.
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Old 01-09-2006, 03:44 PM   #14823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaac
Looking forward to perhaps a chassis upgrade offered by Speedtech.

Going carpet racing this weekend. Raced last weekend as well. The car was ok actually and I got compliments on the way the car handled. You know the looks good statements.
Hey Isaac remember Paul Lemiux schooled guys at Cleveland with a car that had a 2mm chassis and toplate so sometimes I wonder if these super thick chassis are really needed to go fast on carpet.
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Old 01-09-2006, 03:48 PM   #14824
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Default parts ball stud

Magnum,
ball stud/king pins are the same as the YoK BD, don't have the manual with me at this time. Go to YokomoUSA.com, download the Yok BD manual or parts diagram it should give you all the part numbers you're looking for.
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Old 01-09-2006, 04:38 PM   #14825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnum
need to find the part numbers for the frt ball stud used as king pin on an lcg and the tall raer ones on the rear hub carriier - thanks
Kingpins ZS-414B
Long Ball Studs ZC-206L
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Old 01-09-2006, 05:23 PM   #14826
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The ball stud/king pin is ZS-414KB
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Old 01-09-2006, 07:15 PM   #14827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniz24
The ball stud/king pin is ZS-414KB
KB is a new hop up part which is black, instead of chrome
You can also use ZM-414 King Pin Set from the old MX-4, it comes with a couple of open eylet style ball cups.
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Old 01-09-2006, 08:45 PM   #14828
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Wink LCG REBUILD

Well I have just finished rebuilding my LCG from the ground up. I covered the bottom of the CF chassis with some 3M clear adhesive. This adhesive should protect the CF from scratching as it is about 1mm thick. While I was at it, I rebuilt the rear diff with carbide bearings and placed the bevel gear covers SD-302LDC to both front and rear. I have also fitted Rayspeed springs and retainers to the car. I also added SD-202LPL to the front steering rack. I will be trying the car out in the next few days.

Has anyone been able to translate the LCG setup sheets used by the factory drivers for Yatabe Arena? From what I can make out they using the SD A-arms (possibly CGM graphite), front and rear. They are also using the Tamiya TRF pistons in the Yok shocks as well, I believe. Can anyone advise further as would like to try this setup or something similar.

Will try and add some photo's.

Cheers
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Attached Thumbnails
Yokomo MR-4TC SD-dscf0856.jpg   Yokomo MR-4TC SD-dscf0851_edited.jpg   Yokomo MR-4TC SD-dscf0858.jpg  
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Old 01-09-2006, 09:35 PM   #14829
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Hmmmmm.....nice belly I mean nice ride!
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Old 01-09-2006, 09:45 PM   #14830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caltech1
Has anyone been able to translate the LCG setup sheets used by the factory drivers for Yatabe Arena?
You could get the English LCG setup sheet and lay it over the top somehow, or compare the two side by side - still that will only help for the actual parts of the setup sheet that aren't hand written.
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Old 01-09-2006, 10:04 PM   #14831
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LCG SETUP SHEET

I have compared the English and Japanese setup sheets, however it is some of the comments that I want translated. I have worked out which springs they using, but not the steering blocks, Hub carriers and the notes at the bottom of the setup sheet.

I am just trying to get start up ideas for using and trialing prior to the new on-road season. I may take them to a translator for conversion. I will share results when I do.

Thanks
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Old 01-09-2006, 10:08 PM   #14832
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That would be awesome
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Old 01-09-2006, 10:19 PM   #14833
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Default I need to get lower

I just converted my SSG to the LCG and can't get my ride height lower. Right now I'm sitting at 6mm rear and 5mm front. It was recommended 4.5f and 5r for the local track but I can't get it any lower. I've already modified the spring retainers and shock ends to get lower but still NO GO. Any help would be much appreciated. Looking forward to running this new beast.
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Old 01-09-2006, 11:22 PM   #14834
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Talking LCG RIDEHEIGHT

G'day Ro0sTer,
To lower your ride height have got your shocks at 60-64mm in lenght. Have you fitted the short shock ends and have you mounted your shocks on the outer hole on the rear A-arm and the inner/second inner hole on the rear shock tower. this should lay the shock over more and reduce your ride height. Which springs are using and how much tension do you have on them? The same can be applied to the front.

I currently run YOK shocks,(fitted with Rayspeed springs),front and rear with a length of 61 mm for all four shocks. I have the rear shock fitted to the inner a-arm mount and to the second outer hole on the shock tower.(second from the outside of the shock tower). I have the front fitted to the middle on the A-arm and the second outer on the front shock tower. I run 5.5mm ride height front and rear.

I am still a newb at car setup, so I hope this helps.
Calvin.

Last edited by caltech1; 01-10-2006 at 01:45 AM. Reason: Fix misleading Text
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Old 01-10-2006, 06:31 AM   #14835
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Yokomo japanese drivers are not using TRF pistons, they use yokomo#3(3 holes) enlarge the holes to 1mm(original are 0.7mm I think, not sure). Sometimes they use old style SD arm(not graphite), they think those arms have more grip than HD type arms. But they are hard to find now, also those arms are quite fragile. The HD arms are boomproof.
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