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Old 09-28-2005, 09:05 PM   #14611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tharv
Chad,
I've got the short ones on the front, long ones on the rear. bought the car used, that's how it was put together. actually when i got it the long ones were on the front. swaped front to back & it got better. the car actually has SSG shock towers on it, don't know if it matters ?? The rear has been ok, it's the front that's giving me fits !! tried changing shock length to 61.5. With orange springs, it still won't get below 6mm ride height. will the perches make a difference & can i still use stock springs ??
Thanks for the help !!
First thing you should do is get a new set of short ends and put them in the rear. The front and rear shocks should be identical in length and travel (shock end length).

Yes, I'm sure that the SSG towers make a difference. I wouldn't be suprised if that is the sole problem with your ride height. Find someone with the regular towers, or order a set. You won't have a problem after you get the suspension back to stock form. I doubt you'll even need the rayspeed retainers after you get new towers and shock ends.

peace
=chad
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Old 09-28-2005, 09:09 PM   #14612
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lengthend shocks to 63mm. front height just a touch below 6mm. if they'll really make a difference, I'll get the perches. want to run this thing sometime !!
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Old 09-28-2005, 09:51 PM   #14613
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You were right Chad. The SSG tower made all the difference. I put the stock tower back on & used the stock mounting locations. with the shocks at 63mm, the ride height was down to 2mm. good call !! guess I'll put the stock rear on as well, order another set of short mounts & use the stock set up in the back.

Thanks to all !! You've been a tremendous help !!
Tom
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Old 09-29-2005, 07:01 AM   #14614
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anyone know if there is a thicker chassis availalble for the LCG?
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Old 09-29-2005, 08:03 AM   #14615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
anyone know if there is a thicker chassis availalble for the LCG?
I asked BMI about it but to no avail. There too busy withthe tc4,1/12th and mi2. Too bad.
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Old 09-29-2005, 08:22 AM   #14616
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it wouldnt be to hard to make your own, as the only holes that are different to the standard sd are the steering belcrank posts, motor mount and battey post holes, so you could get a normal thicker sd chassis, and ask them to put some extra holes in it?
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Old 09-29-2005, 04:53 PM   #14617
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If anyone's looking for a never-used SD SSG, please check out my post in the For Sale forum

http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=85523
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Old 09-29-2005, 06:37 PM   #14618
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Default YOK PART #

Anybody have the part # for the Yok bleeder screw for the shock caps?
And also the # for the clamping hex drives and does the oring for the roll pin come with the hex drives?

Thanks,
E
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Old 09-29-2005, 09:09 PM   #14619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tharv

You were right Chad. The SSG tower made all the difference. I put the stock tower back on & used the stock mounting locations. with the shocks at 63mm, the ride height was down to 2mm. good call !! guess I'll put the stock rear on as well, order another set of short mounts & use the stock set up in the back.

Thanks to all !! You've been a tremendous help !!
Tom
I'm glad it worked out for you. Now it's time to dominate the track with your Yoko
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Old 09-29-2005, 09:10 PM   #14620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lem2
I asked BMI about it but to no avail. There too busy withthe tc4,1/12th and mi2. Too bad.
I asked them about 2 months ago, same result as lem2.
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Old 09-29-2005, 09:17 PM   #14621
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The CGM is very stiff and works pretty good on carpet.
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Old 09-29-2005, 11:45 PM   #14622
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Good to hear that about the CGM. I bought some CGM parts from a member here and I'm going to convert my Yokomo DP to a CGM and try come carpet racing with it.

Another question, I've got a set of TC3 threaded shock bodies and unobtanium shock shafts and I want to build some shocks for my Yokomo DP. I haven't bought the parts yet, but should I build them the way Team Associated says to, or should I build them the Yokomo way with some Yokomo parts (with the bladder). Thanks!
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Old 09-30-2005, 03:02 AM   #14623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03
Anybody have the part # for the Yok bleeder screw for the shock caps?
And also the # for the clamping hex drives and does the oring for the roll pin come with the hex drives?

Thanks,
E
Well, according to the manuals at www.yokomousa.com

ZS-011EL is the hex drives complete with pin and o-ring.

ZR-011SM is the hex drive maintenance kit (not sure what is in this).

YS-8D are the complete shock caps with screw.

As far as the screw itself goes, it is pretty tiny, I think it may be an M2x6mm round head self tapper. You might be able to source them seperately.

HTH
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Old 09-30-2005, 04:13 AM   #14624
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Default YOK part

I am look at the thickness of the hex, it is half the thickness of the FTC4 hex, this narrows the car 2mm on each side. This moves the hub further into the rim, changing roll rate of the suspension, making it respond faster than the stock part, feeling more responsive to all driver input. This is a Yokomo part just checking on a part #.

picture of low profile hex with o-ring..
Attached Thumbnails
Yokomo MR-4TC SD-ftc4-1.jpg  

Last edited by RED-LINE M03; 09-30-2005 at 04:14 AM. Reason: @$#$
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Old 09-30-2005, 04:31 AM   #14625
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One more quick qusetion. How tight should I run the diffs ??
Thanks !!
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