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Old 08-25-2005, 01:38 AM   #14491
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Thanks caltech1 thats what I'll do. Hobby Habit is my LHS.I should have looked back a couple of pages.
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Old 08-26-2005, 02:43 PM   #14492
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Default Set up

Guys I need a good setup for the lcg for outdoor asphalt
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Old 08-26-2005, 03:05 PM   #14493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Local racer
Guys I need a good setup for the lcg for outdoor asphalt
Smooth high traction asphalt setup:


Lay the shocks in one hole if traction is low.
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File Type: doc Durham RC Club.doc (99.0 KB, 173 views)
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Old 08-26-2005, 03:07 PM   #14494
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attachment doesnt work
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Old 08-26-2005, 03:09 PM   #14495
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try again
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Old 08-26-2005, 03:12 PM   #14496
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better
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Old 08-26-2005, 09:38 PM   #14497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agower
better
Try it out, it works great. I ran some wicked fast runs with that setup. It's actually a 19turn setup, but it rips in stock. Probably b/c I've got the car freed up alot to run 19t.
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Old 08-28-2005, 10:22 AM   #14498
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Hello
I need your advice.
Can you please help me with setup my Yokomo SD for very big, fast and little bumpy, medium-high grip track.

I don't ask you for complete setup but it would be great.

I need advice which springs should i use and which oil and why? Camber angle, toe angle front and rear, camber link position.

I use one-way in front and other parts are like in normal SD.

Thank You in advance.
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Old 08-28-2005, 10:32 AM   #14499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tral
Hello
I need your advice.
Can you please help me with setup my Yokomo SD for very big, fast and little bumpy, medium-high grip track.

I don't ask you for complete setup but it would be great.

I need advice which springs should i use and which oil and why? Camber angle, toe angle front and rear, camber link position.

I use one-way in front and other parts are like in normal SD.

Thank You in advance.
ill do my best to help you.

if its yoke springs then i wouls suggest around light green. if your getting new springs then get white and blue rayspeed springs, white front blue rear. oil about 45 front, 40 rear otherwise any harderit wouldnt absorb the bumps much, any lighter and it would be to light for a medium - high grip track (thats if you racing on tarmac?) (tyres would also be handy)

camber about 1.5 - 2 degress front and rear
toe, front 0. rear 3

im not sure about camber positions, best to start with kit positions then go from there.

this may help, it may not help aswel.
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Old 08-28-2005, 10:49 AM   #14500
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i thought i would post my LCG setup, for medium grip tarmac, cs22 / 27 tyres 27t stock, overall ratio is about 5.76

front:
toe 0
camber 1.5
oil 40
rayspeed yellow springs
2nd outer hole on tower
inside hole wishbone
5 droop (with gauge)
wishbones spaced all the way back,
no spacers under inner ball stud,
outer ball stud is kingpin hole.
spool
5.5mm rideheight

rear:
toe 3
camber 1.5
oil 35
rayspeed blue springs
2nd outer hole shock tower
outside wishbone hole
4 droop (with gauge)
wishbones spaced all the way back
no spacer under inenr ball stud
ball stuf 2nd inside hole on hub
5.5mm rideheight.

yokomo type e bodyshell


attachment is a picture of the track before it was re designed, the red line is now where the actualy track is.

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Yokomo MR-4TC SD-untitled.jpg  
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Old 08-28-2005, 12:27 PM   #14501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadCapece
Smooth high traction asphalt setup:


Lay the shocks in one hole if traction is low.

best setup I've got for smooth high traction asphalt is the one I posted a few post ago. It was for the track that the 2003 Nats were run at.
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Old 08-28-2005, 07:55 PM   #14502
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Default Urgent question

I installed the RS CVd's and they are too short without shims. So I put one shim behind the axle and now I can't fit the pin through the Aluminium Hex wheel hub. So I filed off the aluminium, but it still didn't fit right. What can I do to make the CVD's work? Is drilling the hole out further on the axel the only solution?
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Old 08-28-2005, 09:03 PM   #14503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadCapece
I installed the RS CVd's and they are too short without shims. So I put one shim behind the axle and now I can't fit the pin through the Aluminium Hex wheel hub. So I filed off the aluminium, but it still didn't fit right. What can I do to make the CVD's work? Is drilling the hole out further on the axel the only solution?
Hi! I had the same problem too. You have to file off the excess on the alum hex hub, I forgot to do mine since I threw away the small pieace of instruction on the CVD packet. Then there is the issue of the cvd's being front and rear specific!

Hope you figure out yours soon. And do not make a new hove on the drive shaft.
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Old 08-28-2005, 09:21 PM   #14504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadCapece
I installed the RS CVd's and they are too short without shims. So I put one shim behind the axle and now I can't fit the pin through the Aluminium Hex wheel hub. So I filed off the aluminium, but it still didn't fit right. What can I do to make the CVD's work? Is drilling the hole out further on the axel the only solution?
Just take the hex hub to a file and remove just a little at a time until the pin will fit. Also make sure that after you get it to fit, that it is not binding the bearings by spinning the wheels. If you do not take off enough, it will bind. Take off too much, and the pin will break thruough the hole.
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Old 08-29-2005, 04:47 AM   #14505
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The CVD's are too short to run a diff or spool up front. So I had to put one of the one-way outdrive spaces on the axle. After doing this, the pin binds on the bearing and creates a lot of drag. I've already filed down the aluminium hexes. No help. I think the only thing left is to elongate the hole towards the threaded part of the axle. Everything works fine without that shim, but the axles are not long enough to get full camber and suspension travel. The bones will fall out of a Speedtech spool, and hang on the aluminium rings in a diff.
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