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Old 07-01-2005, 10:25 AM   #14041
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Originally Posted by Dan Hughes
You would need a higher ratio, this would mean that you need to make the pinion smaller and the spur bigger. It is definatley possible as i have run a race with a monster stock and only taken just over 1500mah and this was not the tidiest of runs.
When you use a smaller pinion and a larger spur, you are lowering the gear ratio, not making it higher. Low gear ratio = acceleration/less top speed/longer duration.

When you climb into a 4wd vehicle with low range gears for off roading, these are the equivelent to a small pinion and a large spur. They're certainly not described as high gearing in fullsize cars.

When you change gear in a car - you start in the low gears and change up into the higher ones.

Recently for some reason, RC racers have started to adopt an arse about face way of describing gear ratios. I don't know why. For example, a 9:1 ratio should be considered a low gear ratio, 4:1 should be considered a high gear ratio. Just lately, it seems people are describing them the other way around. It aint right and it needs to stop.
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Old 07-01-2005, 12:33 PM   #14042
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Default SD to LCG

Hey guys,

I just want to be clear on this-if you want to make a Yokomo LCG-what are the chassis and suspension you need to be compatible with it?

I havent owned a Yokomo since the original MR4 and i remember the suspension of the week with that car. Just want to be sure if I buy a doaner car for this project I dont buy the wrong car or the suspension.

Thanks,
Ray
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Old 07-01-2005, 12:57 PM   #14043
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you can use any of the yokomo sd range, i would go for the cgm as the donnor car, as its the cheapest and all graphite.
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Old 07-01-2005, 01:00 PM   #14044
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agower
you can use any of the yokomo sd range, i would go for the cgm as the donnor car, as its the cheapest and all graphite.

Thanks!! Anyone raced the LCG on carpet-more specifically foam tires? I hear the CF is too thin for super high bite-but I should have that covered :sneeky:

Ray
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Old 07-01-2005, 02:03 PM   #14045
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtlemaster
pro 4, did you ever try this, never heard back from you.

I put a 1mm spacers and didn't notice the car drop down any?? ?

One thing to consider is that with the HD arms and stock plastic c-hubs, I couldn't get a full range of travel. So I took a dremel and sanded out a large U shaped area so that the c-hubs can swing freely. I would imagine that if this isn't done, then maybe that could jack up the car too much and keep it from dropping.
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Old 07-01-2005, 02:29 PM   #14046
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Thanks!! Anyone raced the LCG on carpet-more specifically foam tires? I hear the CF is too thin for super high bite-but I should have that covered :sneeky:

Ray
Okay Ray, what custom chassis have you had made recently? hummmmmm?
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Old 07-01-2005, 02:30 PM   #14047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horatio
When you use a smaller pinion and a larger spur, you are lowering the gear ratio, not making it higher. Low gear ratio = acceleration/less top speed/longer duration.

When you climb into a 4wd vehicle with low range gears for off roading, these are the equivelent to a small pinion and a large spur. They're certainly not described as high gearing in fullsize cars.

When you change gear in a car - you start in the low gears and change up into the higher ones.

Recently for some reason, RC racers have started to adopt an arse about face way of describing gear ratios. I don't know why. For example, a 9:1 ratio should be considered a low gear ratio, 4:1 should be considered a high gear ratio. Just lately, it seems people are describing them the other way around. It aint right and it needs to stop.


cheers for you help i will try some different spur pinon combos and see how i go
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Old 07-01-2005, 04:06 PM   #14048
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I'm thinking about picking up the Yoke shaft drive car, but just wondering about tunability.

Does this car have tunability for anti-dive/squat for front and rear arms.
Also are there other caster angles available? I believe the kit comes with 4 degree which seems to be ideal.

Also any reviews or links to reviews would be great. I'd be setting this car up for stock carpet racing. I'm also comparing this to the Pro4.
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Old 07-01-2005, 05:09 PM   #14049
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Wich shaft car? Theres like 8 of them! For carpet racing the CGM \ SD Black \ SD Rayspeed would probably be the best choice

AS for the tunability, any of these chassis offer ALL the tuning possibilities a high-end TC can offer and Yokomo cars are Very easy to work on especially the LCG and BD
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Old 07-01-2005, 05:51 PM   #14050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electro-MAX RC
Also any reviews or links to reviews would be great. I'd be setting this car up for stock carpet racing. I'm also comparing this to the Pro4.
i had a pro4 and i like my yokos 10 times more .
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Old 07-01-2005, 09:10 PM   #14051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electro-MAX RC
I'm thinking about picking up the Yoke shaft drive car, but just wondering about tunability.

Does this car have tunability for anti-dive/squat for front and rear arms.
Also are there other caster angles available? I believe the kit comes with 4 degree which seems to be ideal.

Also any reviews or links to reviews would be great. I'd be setting this car up for stock carpet racing. I'm also comparing this to the Pro4.
The SD is completely tunable EXCEPT for the 4 deg castor blocks, which are the only option
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Old 07-01-2005, 10:41 PM   #14052
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electro-MAX RC
I'm thinking about picking up the Yoke shaft drive car, but just wondering about tunability.

Does this car have tunability for anti-dive/squat for front and rear arms.
Also are there other caster angles available? I believe the kit comes with 4 degree which seems to be ideal.

Also any reviews or links to reviews would be great. I'd be setting this car up for stock carpet racing. I'm also comparing this to the Pro4.

I like my Yok more than the Pro4. The only 2 advantages the Pro4 has is the cheapier parts and graphite everything. The Yok beats it in parts fit, easy of maintance, smoothness of the tranny, and tweakfree chassis.

Yes everything but the castor blocks can be adjusted. I haven't needed different c-hubs b/c anti-dive and other front suspension changes can be made instead of buying new c-hubs.
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Old 07-01-2005, 10:57 PM   #14053
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Did some testing with the LCG today.

Likes:
Very smooth steering and more linear rotating than the SSG.
Blazing fast through tight sections of the track.
Amazing grip b/c of the smooth give of the chassis
Tweak free after a full day of running
Close to 1500 grams with Reedy clip-on heatsink and fan.
Very easy to shim diffs and gears.
P-dub bumper is probably the best investment in rc.


Dislikes:
Chassis edges are weak
Cannot remove spur gear without moving the rear bulkhead vertically
I lost a ring gear and diff gear due to small rocks
Less freespin from tranny b/c I had to run both shields on the bearings in/or around the bulkheads.
Vertical slop in steering rack(will attempt to solve problem this morning before the race)


Matt, are the bulkheads designed to let the diffs run w/o shims? Mine were a very tight fit, and I had to force the diff down in the housing.

Last edited by Pro4Capece; 07-02-2005 at 09:57 PM.
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Old 07-01-2005, 11:03 PM   #14054
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I don't know about the shimming of the diffs on the LCG, I'm waiting for the full kit to be released before I get one. I do know on the BD they say to use shims on the diffs and you don't have to and there still isnt' any play.
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Old 07-02-2005, 03:37 AM   #14055
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You shouldnt have your diffs tight, diffs shimming car be different on every car
I always shim my diffs depending on how they feel, the instructions is only a starting point but you should shim your car individually

Guys, what are your thoughts on Team Suzuki alloy parts? I heard they re not always a perfect fit and tweak (drive cups)
Are the Speed Racing parts better? B\c they re cheaper so...

Thanks!!
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