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Old 06-28-2005, 01:05 PM   #14026
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well the main reason why i put them in there is for the looks and make it lighter. but thanks for all your guys help.
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Old 06-28-2005, 03:01 PM   #14027
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whats a good shock kit for my yokomo? i need to get new ones and i was wondering. and whats the difference in Yokomo Low Friction Aluminum Shock Set Long and short?
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Old 06-28-2005, 03:22 PM   #14028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hurley081182
whats a good shock kit for my yokomo? i need to get new ones and i was wondering. and whats the difference in Yokomo Low Friction Aluminum Shock Set Long and short?
The difference is the length of the shock body, the SS (Long) was meant got the Nitro GT-4 and used for the RS kit, but people have had success with the short bodies and long shock ends, and the SSS (Short) was made for the electric touring car. Were you looking for a set?
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Old 06-28-2005, 03:24 PM   #14029
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yeah u got any u would sell me?
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Old 06-28-2005, 03:27 PM   #14030
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Quote:
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yeah u got any u would sell me?
I'll send you a PM later.
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Old 06-29-2005, 05:48 PM   #14031
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hey send me a pm
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Old 06-30-2005, 02:18 PM   #14032
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I just finished building my LCG. Man, this car rocks. It looks wicked fast just sitting there. EXTREMELY low CG compared to any other shaftie I've ever owned. I loved how easy it is to work on.

Problems:
Had to dremel on the arms and c-hubs to get full travel and smooth action.

Vertical slop with the main steering rack.

Hard to work with the spacers for the bulkhead deck and the upperdeck.
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Old 06-30-2005, 02:56 PM   #14033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro4Capece
I just finished building my LCG. Man, this car rocks. It looks wicked fast just sitting there. EXTREMELY low CG compared to any other shaftie I've ever owned. I loved how easy it is to work on.

Problems:
Had to dremel on the arms and c-hubs to get full travel and smooth action.

Vertical slop with the main steering rack.

Hard to work with the spacers for the bulkhead deck and the upperdeck.
Pro4Capece, did you by any chance use the spacers that were used on the SD steering posts to kill some of the slop? And I'll agree w/you on those spacers, little tricky to get on.
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Old 06-30-2005, 10:20 PM   #14034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_bam226
Pro4Capece, did you by any chance use the spacers that were used on the SD steering posts to kill some of the slop? And I'll agree w/you on those spacers, little tricky to get on.

Nahhhh, I didn't even think about that. Is that whay you've done? How does well does it work?


Is there a conversion to connect the upperdeck to the lowerdeck through the bell cranks? I know there are the holes in the deck, and I doubt those are only used for accessing the screw retaining the bb's in the bell cranks.
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Old 06-30-2005, 10:46 PM   #14035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro4Capece
Nahhhh, I didn't even think about that. Is that whay you've done? How does well does it work?


Is there a conversion to connect the upperdeck to the lowerdeck through the bell cranks? I know there are the holes in the deck, and I doubt those are only used for accessing the screw retaining the bb's in the bell cranks.
Mine still moves pretty freely. Using the servo saver posts, doubt any of the ones made so far will fit. I thought about it too, but even the ones made for the SDW still are little too long, unless of course you mod them a little.
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Old 07-01-2005, 05:59 AM   #14036
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Default gearing problem

well were do i start, i need some help
rules have changed and not sure what to do

i am running a monster-stock pro motor and was running 6.40 gear ratio with 3300 Mah batteries

but the rules are about to change and the battery limit has been droped to no more than 1500 Mah, i need to last 5 mins

i run a Mr4tc sd SSG with rubber tyres in silvercan (johnson 540) (we call this stock) with a ratio of 4.09, do i use this ratio for the above class(pro-stock) which i run the Mr4tc sd black version

as they will be using the same batteries do i up the drive ratio or do i drop it, how do i work it out, or will the monster dump the batteries

any suggestions would be great
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Old 07-01-2005, 08:46 AM   #14037
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You would need a higher ratio, this would mean that you need to make the pinion smaller and the spur bigger. It is definatley possible as i have run a race with a monster stock and only taken just over 1500mah and this was not the tidiest of runs.
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Old 07-01-2005, 08:53 AM   #14038
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If you have open motor, then try the Trinity Street Spec motor. It is the choice of most spec classes in the SouthEAst.

You can to anywhere from 5-10 minutes on a 1600 pack. We used to gear at about 6.0-7.0 depending on the air temp* and how strong the battery was.
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Old 07-01-2005, 09:59 AM   #14039
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pro 4, did you ever try this, never heard back from you.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtlemaster
if you put spacers under the suspension mounts you are moving the arms closer to the shock tower and this will raise ride height.
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Old 07-01-2005, 10:19 AM   #14040
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Default MR4TC-SD: Tunability Limitations

I'm thinking about picking up the Yoke shaft drive car, but just wondering about tunability.

Does this car have tunability for anti-dive/squat for front and rear arms.
Also are there other caster angles available? I believe the kit comes with 4 degree which seems to be ideal.

Also any reviews or links to reviews would be great. I'd be setting this car up for stock carpet racing. I'm also comparing this to the Pro4.
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