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Old 06-27-2005, 04:44 PM   #14011
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has anyone tried placing the LCG on an SD chassis?

the steerings posts can be changed to the raypseed version. not sure if the upper deck and motormount has to be changed as well. there would be no need for a custom 3mm chassis.
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Old 06-27-2005, 05:59 PM   #14012
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hey guys check out what i've done with my rayspeed kit . i dont have everything done that i want to do. i still have the rpm ball cups to cut down and add and a few aluminum parts that i am waiting for in the mail. what u guys think of it so far? anyone have any more ideas for what i should do to it?
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Old 06-27-2005, 06:06 PM   #14013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer
has anyone tried placing the LCG on an SD chassis?

the steerings posts can be changed to the raypseed version. not sure if the upper deck and motormount has to be changed as well. there would be no need for a custom 3mm chassis.
You'll probably need spacers to raise the upper deck to the same height as the steering posts. Since the LCG spec states that the height is lower than the SD, and the SDW. A close alternative would be to use the SDW steering posts which are lower by almost 3mm compared to the original SD posts.
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Old 06-27-2005, 07:45 PM   #14014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer
has anyone tried placing the LCG on an SD chassis?

the steerings posts can be changed to the raypseed version. not sure if the upper deck and motormount has to be changed as well. there would be no need for a custom 3mm chassis.

I have tried replacing the LCG lower deck with an SSG lower deck. All holes line up except for the LCG steering post and Battery posts, I had to drill the SSG chassis for these.

I was halfway through the build when I noticed that the LCG with SSG plate is LOT HEAVIER!!!!. So, I swapped the LCG chassis back. I'm going to try to lighten the LCG as much as possible and reserve it for BIG RACE duty. My current SD SSG which is still running great will be for practice and club races.

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Old 06-27-2005, 08:08 PM   #14015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hurley081182
hey guys check out what i've done with my rayspeed kit . i dont have everything done that i want to do. i still have the rpm ball cups to cut down and add and a few aluminum parts that i am waiting for in the mail. what u guys think of it so far? anyone have any more ideas for what i should do to it?
be careful where you place all those alumunum screws... especially in high stress areas like the toe blocks.
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:35 PM   #14016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
be careful where you place all those alumunum screws... especially in high stress areas like the toe blocks.

You might also have to apply CA on the counter sunk holes on the bottom deck. Carbon Fiber has tendency of "grabbing" the screws. CA helps smoothen the sandpaper-like surface of the bottom screwholes. Also, I avoid using non-steel screws for aluminum bulkheads and hingepin blocks.
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Old 06-27-2005, 10:41 PM   #14017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rough512
You might also have to apply CA on the counter sunk holes on the bottom deck. Carbon Fiber has tendency of "grabbing" the screws. CA helps smoothen the sandpaper-like surface of the bottom screwholes. Also, I avoid using non-steel screws for aluminum bulkheads and hingepin blocks.
Yes it's pretty, but can be a real bitch when you try to remove the screws. Ti screws are not the easiest, but aluminum can be a nightmare.
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Old 06-28-2005, 02:04 AM   #14018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer
has anyone tried placing the LCG on an SD chassis?

the steerings posts can be changed to the raypseed version. not sure if the upper deck and motormount has to be changed as well. there would be no need for a custom 3mm chassis.

that to me doesnt look like the lcg, notice that the camber links attach to a carbon piece and not to the ulkhead directly, and the whole bulkhead looks differnt aswel. also the shock towers look slightly different.

could be wrong though.
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Old 06-28-2005, 08:40 AM   #14019
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on Yokomo Japan, the LCG will be sold as a whole kit. 49,980YEN
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Old 06-28-2005, 09:53 AM   #14020
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49,980YEN .... that is another 410 greens for our skinny wallet!!
BUT I got my LCG conversion already.....

anyway.... broke 2 of my turnbuckle today at parking lot bashing with my brother~
Just wondering... which kind of turnbuckle are you guys using?
lunsford ti turnbuckle? standard yok one? Associated TC3 one?
as i'm in the market for the Ti turnbuckle. but is it worth it of bleeding out
our hard earn greens for them?

oh yeah... can i also use TC3's shock spring with the rayspeed cup?

thanks guys...
~Ming
still running my rayspeed.... when am i going to have time to build my BD and LCG and runs them
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Old 06-28-2005, 10:27 AM   #14021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pops
Yes it's pretty, but can be a real bitch when you try to remove the screws. Ti screws are not the easiest, but aluminum can be a nightmare.
whats the difference between alumimum, ti, and steel(or whatever screws that come with the car) screws?
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Old 06-28-2005, 10:31 AM   #14022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rough512
You might also have to apply CA on the counter sunk holes on the bottom deck.
You should never put CA in the countersunk screw holes. They are typically machined to closely match the shape of the screw that goes into them. With a build up of CA, the screw may stick out and not be flush or below flush. A chassis with screws sticking out of the bottom will not lay flat on a setup board.
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Old 06-28-2005, 10:31 AM   #14023
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strengthness & weight:

steel > ti > aluminum
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Old 06-28-2005, 11:30 AM   #14024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hurley081182
whats the difference between alumimum, ti, and steel(or whatever screws that come with the car) screws?
Aluminum is very light and soft.
Ti is light but not as soft as Aluminum.
Steel is steel, it is harder than the rest.

Some people have said that aluminum screws going into aluminum bulk heads will begin to react to each other, being of the same metal, and begin to corode. I am not so sure of that. But it is sometimes a good idea to use locktite on metal to metal, and the screws being made of Aluminum are very soft. They can get too tight and then you can't get them out without stripping the heads. Then you have a problem, it's dremel time!
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Old 06-28-2005, 11:37 AM   #14025
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it's basically when using Ti screws into aluminum. they will weld to each other if not properly treated....go to a Bicycle store and pick up some Ti-Prep. apply it to the screw threads....
I just use regular Diff Grease on all the screws...whether it's Ti or Steel. makes it alot easier to install and remove.
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