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Old 05-25-2005, 01:36 PM   #13636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horatio
It looks awesome. If I buy a new TC next season, I think the LCG is top of my revised list. Still a bit scared of open gears, but I'll cross that hurdle when I get to it......!
It makes even the rayspeed look like a TC3....So far so good if I have a good setup by next sunday I will race it at the next series race....Verfy smooth drive train...PRO4 smooth....(well a very freed up pro4)LOL
Don't worry so much about open diffs. The EVO4 & SDW I have seen haven't had a problem so I would probably say the LCG will be fine.
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Old 05-25-2005, 04:30 PM   #13637
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Tested the LCG on carpet today. All I have to say: Itīs great. After 5 runs Iīm as fast (and a bit faster) as I was with my CGM. Very nice. Letīs see how it will work on asphalt tommorow.

Cheers
Chris
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Old 05-25-2005, 06:54 PM   #13638
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Mr. UPS delivered my LCG yesterday (thanks Steve). I started building it today and all I can say is that Yokomo is producing a kits that have to rank among the top in terms of quality.

I'm only half way finished. I guess it would have helped if I had completely disassembled my SD Black before I started building my LCG.

The drivetrain is silky smooth, and the steering mechanism in the LCG is even better than that of the BD.
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Old 05-26-2005, 12:23 AM   #13639
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what shock positions, springs and camber links, and spacers under ball studs are you using.?
thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
Yup I went over them again and found the problem.
The shock ends were not all the way tight. Once I tightened them down I got 5.5mm with no preload...so I guess it is ment for the only super prepaired tracks....Guess SoCal is out....too many entry and exits to the banked sections.
Thanks for getting back to me. It was really bothering me also.
Quick question though. With the LCG being lower should I stick with the Droop 6 front 5 rear? or should I change it?
Thanks,
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Old 05-26-2005, 03:47 AM   #13640
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The shock tower of the LCG is about 2-3 mm lower than that of the BD. As pointed out by Matt, you have to use the Rayspeed aluminium spring retainer which allow the spring to sit lower. Than you can work on the ride height and droop as normal
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Old 05-26-2005, 05:10 AM   #13641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agower
what shock positions, springs and camber links, and spacers under ball studs are you using.?
thanks
I am using the Yokomo SSS shocks ont he second from the outside hole both F/R. White and blue springs F/R camber links to the second whole from the inside. 2mm spacer under inner camber link both F/R.
The LCG took about 4 hours to build...Mainly because I had to take apart my Rayspeed and build a new rear diff as I got the delrin outdrives....with ceramic balls my diff is ultra smooth. Hope to test soon.
Unable to test the car right now as my Helios is in the mail coming back to me. I will have ot wait until Tuesday I think...Oh well....Got a YRX12 to work on while that is coming to me.
Thanks,
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Old 05-26-2005, 05:18 AM   #13642
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I forgot to mention, I'm glad that I didn't get the SDW. I think that the LCG is the better deal.
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Old 05-26-2005, 05:29 AM   #13643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geppetto
I forgot to mention, I'm glad that I didn't get the SDW. I think that the LCG is the better deal.
I will agree but would also say the SDW is still a champion in its own right. I think if it were not for the SDw the LCG would not have seen the light as quickly....I tell you it has lite a fire for shaft drive car in me that has been dead since the release of the BD...Now the BD will take the 19T car spot and the LCG will be my stock motor racing killa. great to have two great cars...Makes it alot easier to setup too. Now if I could have my Helios I would be a very happy racer.
Also be carfull how you shim the LCG. even with teh smallest shims I was seeing some binding if you went by the insructions. I will say one thing though...God Bless Yokomo USA for putting in a very thurough instruction manual...
Best helpfull hint while building your LCG
Take your SD apart. Well at least the suspention sections keep those together but removed from the SD.
Next is to clean all your bearings before you start...This one slowed me way down as I am AR when it comes to bearings.
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Old 05-26-2005, 06:56 AM   #13644
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Default Ackerman on SDW?

Hi guys,

Nice to hear all the good things about the LCG! Since the SDW came out Yokomo has raised the bar very high conerning quality, design, performance and finish.They seem to have made a lot of efforts to compet with the other High quality brands like X ray, HPI etc...and I think they probably even better now so I hope people will realize that and give yokomo a try, they definatetly deserve it.

Well, thats enough kind words, can someone tell me how do you adjust the Ackerman on the SDW without having some toe out?

It would be really nice if you could help me out!

Thanks!
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Old 05-26-2005, 07:06 AM   #13645
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make the lower connecting turnbuckle for the two steering bell cranks either longer or shorter
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Old 05-26-2005, 09:45 PM   #13646
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On the C-hub kingpins. Do you guys tighten them down all the way to the plastic? I've had 3 back out on me already.

Also, I'm having a hard time breaking in the Yok ballcups. The fit really tight on the studs, and won't let the suspension freely move.
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Old 05-27-2005, 04:39 AM   #13647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro4Capece
On the C-hub kingpins. Do you guys tighten them down all the way to the plastic? I've had 3 back out on me already.

Also, I'm having a hard time breaking in the Yok ballcups. The fit really tight on the studs, and won't let the suspension freely move.
Threads on composite materials can wear very quickly. The threads on the TTech P8 carbon chassis used to wear-out easily, especially where the gear covers used to mount. When this happened, it was time for a whole new chassis!!!

However, a tip I picked up really helped make those threads last longer.

When you screw into a new composite part, you are effectively cutting the thread with the screw (that's why it's so tight that first time - no sniggering at the back!! )

Thereafter, when removing the screw and putting it back in, the screw can easily end up damaging this internal thread, each and every time you repeat the cycle. Next time you remove a screw from a composite part, when you put go to put the screw back in, turn the screw slowly anti-clockwise (YES ANTI-CLOCKWISE) and feel/listen for a 'click'. When the click has occured, the screw's thread is now perfectly alligned with the internal thread of the composite part, and you can safely tighten the screw up, clockwise, without chewing up the thread. This technique makes the parts last much longer, including softer alloy parts too. It prevents cross threading and stripped out parts.

Regards the king-pins into the steering knuckle, I found that the small black plastic spacer can be too thick for smooth operation. Seing as the king-pins are going into composite plastic, there should be no need have them too tight. Err on the side of caution, assuming the threads are healthy, the kingpins shouldn't back out of composite steering knuckles.

Regards the the ball cups, click them onto the ball. Then squeeze them with a pair of piers whilst they are on the ball. This stretches the plastic slightly and the ball cup is instantly 'broken in'.
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Old 05-27-2005, 11:04 AM   #13648
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I kept having this problem with the standard kingpins. For a couple of quid (bucks, whatever) get the lightweight ones, part number is SD-414TA. Instead of a 1 piece kingpin it is a screw and a top hat washer. I've never had 1 of these back out.

//Stu

P.S. Any more thoughts on which body is best. Yoke Type D Dodge, Ride Dodge MK1 or MK2?
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Old 05-27-2005, 11:33 AM   #13649
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Stu, are you looking for a good allround body?
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Old 05-27-2005, 11:35 AM   #13650
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does anyone know which car Masami is running?

any pictures?
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