Yokomo MR-4TC SD

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Old 05-23-2005, 12:22 PM
  #13621  
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I got a little present from A STEVE....LCG is here...I was was RCX yesterday and ran into Glen got some good advice...The LCG they had there is one sweet car. I have to wait until tomorrow to build but hey all good thing come to those who wait. Yokomo didn't have a lot to show mostly drift but the BD and LCG got a lot of photos. I didn;t take any cause I will take some when I am done building. Also if you have the CGM the only par tyou need are the SD styl hinge pin mounts. Glad to be a service.
Take Care All & GOD Bless
Stephen <><
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Old 05-23-2005, 12:25 PM
  #13622  
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did u get any setup with yours? or know of where to start?
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Old 05-23-2005, 12:32 PM
  #13623  
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I was told that of german racer:

front:

oneway
no swaybar
Antidive 1mm
springs orange
oil: 90 wt
piston *3
damperstay: second hole
a-arm: outest hole
ride height 5mm
droop max


rear:

no swaybar
springs green
80wt oil
piston #3
damperstay: outest hole
a-arm: outest hole
3 degree toe-in
ride height: 5,5mm
droop max

body: Mazda 6

If you miss anything...cry...

Cheers
Chris
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Old 05-23-2005, 03:37 PM
  #13624  
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Originally Posted by Horatio
I get what you're saying, but I still reckon an element of risk entered Billy's equation in his quest to get a little extra grip. Plenty of drivers besides those at the worlds can run 5 minute races without hitting anything (but just not as quickly!!). The gamble being that on occassion, these plastic parts have been known to fail suddenly, purely under perfectly normal loads associated with racing - not crashing or hitting the boards - just hard cornering. Either way, his choices certainly raised a few eyebrows!
No slam, but I doubt that any NEW Yokomo plastic part has failed under perfectly normal loads associated with racing. When the SD first came out there were some weak parts and that was corrected quickly.

Now maybe you could hit something and stress a part or put a small crack in the part, which could go un-noticed. Then you go out and are racing and the part just snaps on the next run. This would make the part look like it failed under normal racing loads, when the failure was caused on a prior run.

Billy Easton tested both the graphite and plastic parts and was able to get faster lap times on his SSG than his worlds edition with TO27s. He was down in Florida at least a week or more testing.
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Old 05-23-2005, 06:08 PM
  #13625  
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Yeah, there are no parts on the SSG and newer that would fail under normal racing conditions. Maybe if you didn't have the full front bumper, and hit a corner dot, something could break, but definantely not under fast cornering.
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Old 05-23-2005, 09:42 PM
  #13626  
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billy also ran the plastic parts at nationals, as far as the rest, i only know what HE as said, i guess i could have misunderstood him. i have a picture of me and a top fuel dragster, even got to sit in it while it was running,(on jack stands) but that doesn't mean it was mine. didn't mean to start a frikaus.
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Old 05-24-2005, 04:24 AM
  #13627  
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Originally Posted by pops
No slam, but I doubt that any NEW Yokomo plastic part has failed under perfectly normal loads associated with racing. When the SD first came out there were some weak parts and that was corrected quickly.

Now maybe you could hit something and stress a part or put a small crack in the part, which could go un-noticed. Then you go out and are racing and the part just snaps on the next run. This would make the part look like it failed under normal racing loads, when the failure was caused on a prior run.

Billy Easton tested both the graphite and plastic parts and was able to get faster lap times on his SSG than his worlds edition with TO27s. He was down in Florida at least a week or more testing.
No, the newer parts are better that's for sure. And it's quite true what you say about damage occuring from the previous round only becoming evident in the next. The old hub carriers in particular could crack, but look OK - only the odd handling would alert you to the fact that something was infact wrong in the next round.

I also agree that some people's idea of what a 'clipping point' should be may vary by up to half a yard on a bad day!!

The part weaknesses are history now thanks to Yokomo's revisions.

And Billy's stopwatch obviously doesn't lie!
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Old 05-24-2005, 06:42 AM
  #13628  
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Since Yokomo just released the LCG. Is Rayspeed going to release their own
version also? like rayspeed II??

umm.... Saving the money now to see what Rayspeed is gonna put up!
(Because Yok BD Stole my wallet full of cash )

For the newer plastic part.... well... it acutally works better then the old one.
the C-hub and arms don't break that easily anymore.
but if you still clip the board or side curve hard enough.
they are still going to break no matter what you are using.
unless you are using the alum. arms... then they are just going to bent
or transfer the impact force to some where else.


~ming
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Old 05-25-2005, 06:31 AM
  #13629  
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Well for those who like to see the LCG all done.
Here you go.
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/421613657/0.jpg
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/421613657/1.jpg
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/421613657/2.jpg
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/421613657/3.jpg
She went together without much trouble....except one thing that I have to work on today....I couldn't get the rear ride height down below 6mm. the front hardly went below 5mm. I am using the short ball ends on the shocks....
I might have to ask someone here for a little hint......."cough cough MATT cough cough" sorry that was suppost to be suttle..LOL
ANy clues would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Stephen <><
Oh yea the rear diff is Excel Delrin availabel through Champ RC.
And the largest Spur is 100T 64p I don't know 48p sorry.
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Old 05-25-2005, 07:39 AM
  #13630  
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Lookin good Stephen
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Old 05-25-2005, 07:43 AM
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Are the cuts for the CVD´s of the delrin outdrives open to the side? I hope you understand what I mean... Sorry... don´t know how to explain it...
I just remember my Barracuda... nearly everytime you breack a-arm or a c-hub or a rear knuckle the outdrives were damaged, too...

Thanks
Cheers
Chris
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Old 05-25-2005, 07:48 AM
  #13632  
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Originally Posted by speedy-932
Are the cuts for the CVD´s of the delrin outdrives open to the side? I hope you understand what I mean... Sorry... don´t know how to explain it...
I just remember my Barracuda... nearly everytime you breack a-arm or a c-hub or a rear knuckle the outdrives were damaged, too...

Thanks
Cheers
Chris
With the delrin out drives they have the closed end. On one side I accidently melted it...Hard to explain...Part of the breaking method I use...Still works great though. Oh I only will be racign Stock with this car and the rear is not my problem area so I feel comfortable witht he delrin. Steve from speedtech also had the same problem with his delrin so he won't use them. But like I said I only race stock with the SD so no worries. Besides I have a spare diff already broke in and ready if something happens. Oh yea I will tryt he derin in the BD with 19T....I will see how they hold up.
I like these diff halfs much better than the HPI ones...Only because of the fit and finish. I really hope they last.
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Old 05-25-2005, 09:45 AM
  #13633  
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It looks awesome. If I buy a new TC next season, I think the LCG is top of my revised list. Still a bit scared of open gears, but I'll cross that hurdle when I get to it......!
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Old 05-25-2005, 11:14 AM
  #13634  
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[QUOTE=Mr. Shookie]
She went together without much trouble....except one thing that I have to work on today....I couldn't get the rear ride height down below 6mm. the front hardly went below 5mm. I am using the short ball ends on the shocks....
I might have to ask someone here for a little hint......."cough cough MATT cough cough" sorry that was suppost to be suttle..LOL
QUOTE]
Did you solve your problem with ride height yet? If you're already using the rayspeed spring cups with the short shock ends I have no clue. Take the car to the Reedy race and have Judge Itoh or one of the other Yokomo guys look at it, maybe even Masami
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Old 05-25-2005, 12:32 PM
  #13635  
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Originally Posted by Matt Howard
Did you solve your problem with ride height yet? If you're already using the rayspeed spring cups with the short shock ends I have no clue. Take the car to the Reedy race and have Judge Itoh or one of the other Yokomo guys look at it, maybe even Masami
Yup I went over them again and found the problem.
The shock ends were not all the way tight. Once I tightened them down I got 5.5mm with no preload...so I guess it is ment for the only super prepaired tracks....Guess SoCal is out....too many entry and exits to the banked sections.
Thanks for getting back to me. It was really bothering me also.
Quick question though. With the LCG being lower should I stick with the Droop 6 front 5 rear? or should I change it?
Thanks,
Stephen <><
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