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Old 05-08-2005, 05:32 PM   #13456
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Default Really it's not that hard.....

Quote:
Originally posted by Turtlemaster
do not worry if you can't get anywhere close to 65 seconds like M540 has, i will bet just about anything he is the only one getting this kinda free spin time. as long as there is no binding you will be fine.

jaybee, remember the air hose test. what was that around 30 seconds?

just relube some ceramic bearings with even lighter oil, replace input/main and dogbones with light ones and have two diffs and ignore the kit shimming.

3 shims on the long side of each diff and none on the other and only one shim behind the crown gear (increased to two after a days running).

As far as I can figure it wouldn't work with a oneway in the front because that makes it 2wd in a straight line. As such once it's up and spinning you effectively don't have the momentum of the front wheels to keep it running.


Last edited by Mabuchi540; 05-08-2005 at 05:57 PM.
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Old 05-08-2005, 06:19 PM   #13457
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Default

Your right about the one-way, but I still can't figure how you had the strength to make the tranny spin for 65 seconds? I'm not challenging you, I just want to know how you did it, so I can compare my amout of free spin against yours.
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Old 05-08-2005, 06:25 PM   #13458
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Default Oh that....

Quote:
Originally posted by Pro4Capece
Your right about the one-way, but I still can't figure how you had the strength to make the tranny spin for 65 seconds? I'm not challenging you, I just want to know how you did it, so I can compare my amout of free spin against yours.
I couldn't do that on one spin/flick I wish lol.

I'm flicking (spinning I guess you could call it) across the top of the tire as fast as I can for about 5 seconds and don't start the clock so to speak until I take my hand away for the last time.
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Old 05-08-2005, 07:09 PM   #13459
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Quote:
Originally posted by asw7576
I'm testing brand new 7T xenon motor racing today with 80 spur gear and 21 pinion gear. This should give me final gear ratio 8.96, which is safe range for 7T motor, am I right ?
Why are you using Xenon Modified Motor? Why? Why? Stick to Reedy/Yokomo or Orion please
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Old 05-09-2005, 12:44 AM   #13460
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Quote:
Originally posted by daniz24
Why are you using Xenon Modified Motor? Why? Why? Stick to Reedy/Yokomo or Orion please
..... it's cheap

But I have orion V2 revoulution for secret weapon
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Old 05-09-2005, 05:11 AM   #13461
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Default Weight comparison SDW\TC4 full graphite

Well I weighed both and this is what comes out:

SDW is 541 grams and TC4 596 grams and thats with the full graphite kit and FT carbon battery strap but the car had the duct fan kit on

Thats still about 55 grams, not bad at all I find, imagine if I compared the SDW with the stock team TC4!!!!

The TC4 is still a really good car, great handling..
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Old 05-09-2005, 05:25 AM   #13462
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pro4Capece
How much freespin is everyone getting with their SSG? .
I can get 6 seconds freespin with my 1way equipped SSG. I think I can get up to 8secs if I replace the fron one way gear with a new one. I spin the rear tires using the thumb, fore and dirty fingers of both hands and spin the tires forward.

If the car fails to spin 6 seconds I remove the prop shaft to locate which end is binding. This weekend, I had to clean the small bearing on the motor mount when I found the free spin reduced to 4 seconds.



On an R2 I'm rebuilding, I can get 10 seconds despite one gritty axle bearing. I hope to replace that bearing soon.

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Old 05-09-2005, 07:43 AM   #13463
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Default Re: Weight comparison SDW\TC4 full graphite

Quote:
Originally posted by Tbevofreak
Well I weighed both and this is what comes out:

SDW is 541 grams and TC4 596 grams and thats with the full graphite kit and FT carbon battery strap but the car had the duct fan kit on

Thats still about 55 grams, not bad at all I find, imagine if I compared the SDW with the stock team TC4!!!!

The TC4 is still a really good car, great handling..
Are you sure the car only weights 541 grams cause almost every new kit out is about 1500grams with batt, motor, and electronics. My SD is about 1551 and my BD is 1550...with bodies on. That is Roar legal....Other wise you couldn't run them..
If it just a club race then I take a few grams off and can get it down to like 1450-1500 but then the balance gets a little worse too. Right now both cars are balanced both front to back and left to right...SO nice to be balanced...took forever though..
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Old 05-09-2005, 08:31 AM   #13464
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Default Re: Re: Weight comparison SDW\TC4 full graphite

Quote:
Originally posted by Mr. Shookie
Are you sure the car only weights 541 grams cause almost every new kit out is about 1500grams with batt, motor, and electronics. My SD is about 1551 and my BD is 1550...with bodies on. That is Roar legal....Other wise you couldn't run them..
If it just a club race then I take a few grams off and can get it down to like 1450-1500 but then the balance gets a little worse too. Right now both cars are balanced both front to back and left to right...SO nice to be balanced...took forever though..
Stephen <><
Can you post a picture of where you put weight on the BD chassis?
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Old 05-09-2005, 08:35 AM   #13465
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Default Re: Re: Re: Weight comparison SDW\TC4 full graphite

Quote:
Originally posted by pops
Can you post a picture of where you put weight on the BD chassis?
Yea give me a couple of minutes though got to go to the gargage to take the snap shot.
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Old 05-09-2005, 09:00 AM   #13466
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Default

Here are the links to the pictures
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/421606718/3.jpg
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/421606718/4.jpg
There is 10grams under the Capasitor 5gram strips laid long ways and the 5 gram laid sidways in front of the capasitor.
There is a 5 grams in front of the servo
There is a 10gram and 5 gram behind the motor for a total of 35grams. How I balanced was with four digital scales....Took me forever...about half a day of putting 5 here and putting 5 there one side then the next.. This put it about as good as I could unless I had 2.5 gram then I could have it perfect but it is very close with that setup.
Hope this helps
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Old 05-09-2005, 09:01 AM   #13467
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Personally I think all this 'free spin' nonsense is a waste of time. Basically, the faster you get the wheels to spin, the longer they are going to spin for. The heavier the drive train is - the longer it's going to spin for. The heavier the tyres - the longer it's going to spin for. You get the picture!

I saw a video once of a guy spinning his TC3 tranny - it spun for about a minute.

Quite besides which, the real test of a car's transmission efficiency can only be done when it's under load!!

A better idea is to strip the bearings, de-grease them and re-lubricate them (with the 'special' oil of your choice). Running shielded bearings or bearings with no shields at all offer considerable friction savings compared to sealed bearings. Once you've got the the bearings fully prepared and the car's transmission fully sorted - build a ramp. Allow the car to roll down this ramp and measure the distance it rolls. When you know that the car rolls a certain distance when the car is freshly prepared, you can keep track of the car's 'freeness' at all times. Any reduction in this distance suggests binding issues.
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Old 05-09-2005, 12:11 PM   #13468
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Default A little help please!

Hi,

I m having a little problem with my rear diff in the SDW, when it spins I can see the diff gear moving slightly from left to right and one of the CVD is going up and down a little...why is this happening? its very annoying!

The wobble is very minor but I hope you can help me out on this..

Do I need to rebuild the diff?

BTW, I shimmed the diff in the bulkheads as the instructions say for a good alignement

Hoping to hear from you!!
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Old 05-09-2005, 03:47 PM   #13469
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Default Re: A little help please!

Quote:
Originally posted by Tbevofreak
Hi,

I m having a little problem with my rear diff in the SDW, when it spins I can see the diff gear moving slightly from left to right and one of the CVD is going up and down a little...why is this happening? its very annoying!

The wobble is very minor but I hope you can help me out on this..

Do I need to rebuild the diff?

BTW, I shimmed the diff in the bulkheads as the instructions say for a good alignement

Hoping to hear from you!!
You know this sounds like what happend to John Scotts BD last Saturday. He noticed that when he tightening the rear diff he heard a small crack, but didn't see anything wrong, except that the diff would wobble when it turned. He pulled apart the diff and the small ridge that retains the diff ring in had a crack in the plastic. It had seperated completly thru. I think this may be what happened to your diff. Just replace the diff outdrives and don't over tighten them.
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Old 05-09-2005, 04:37 PM   #13470
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Thanks pops! thats very interesting but what you call the diff ring is the metal plate that turns on the diff balls, right?

well, I ll just have to pull the diff a part and check but I don t remember overtightening the diff.....bad luck

I guess it will be a good excuse to place my first order at speedtech! But I ll be getting the spool with the plastic outdrives, BTW does a brand make aluminium or delrin diff outdrives?

Cheers!
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