Turtlemaster

jaybee, you have to remember that not everyone has the same driving style. and not all setups are the same on all cars or even the same on the same brand of car. example, you can take two sdw's built buy the same driver, same day, same setup, give them both to a none interested party and ask him which one feels better, he will "find" a difference in them. the amount of extra rebound given by the o rings vs the foam is so small that i don't think you or i could tell. esp at FW. heck, i took the foam out of my shocks and can't tell the difference. do'nt sweat the small stuff. good fresh tires is most important at FW then setup.

pops

iTrader: (1)

I solved that problem when running mod by putting the O-ring in the front cup and removing the o-ring from the rear cup. This allows the center drive shaft to sit deeper in the rear cup. The further out it sits in the cup, the weaker the cup is. You can use the Suzuki cups but they are much heavier than the plastic.

Tbevofreak

Hi guys,

I'd like to know how long the SDW replica drivetrain is able to spin free for, is it as good as the Pro4?

I'm a little anxious concernig the CF shaft, can it handle low turn mod? I heard drivers having probs with Cf shaft breaking...

Thanks!

rc_bam226

The CF shafts that broke were the first generation one that were cheaper than the current version. I broke one using a 12 turn single, but I believe someone posted a fix by CA gluing the whole shaft to reinforce it. Mind you, this was a fix for the older shaft, not the newer one.

Johnnytc3

iTrader: (1)

So your saying the ones that comes on the SDW are stronger? Im thinking about picking one up, but have seen my buddy's sd carbon one twist like it was made out of putty.

Dan Hughes

The SDW one is made by Bomber. I had a RC maniax shaft and the shaft is ok but the ends twist in the shaft. I am getting the SDW one soon and i hope it doesnt do the same as the other i had.

rc_bam226

Yup, the one that comes with the SDW is stronger, and like Dan said, it is made by Team Bomber, relabeled for Yokomo. But that said, Johnny, if you do pick up an old one, its thin shaft that looks like the CF has been milled. You can buy the newer shaft, its available.

Johnnytc3

iTrader: (1)

Ok, cool, i saw one on speedtech, but didnt know if it was the rubber one or not, i guess ill pick one up prettty soon. But can it withstand the power of 7-9 turn modifieds?

rc_bam226

Turtlemaster has the SDW, and used a 9x2 Cobalt with it, and the only thing he killed was the rear input cup for the input shaft. If you were going to run something that low, recommend getting the Team Suzuki aluminum cups, or split a set with a friend.

ChadCapece

Ok, so I'm now on a diet. I need to drop 80 grams without performance loss. Where can I lose the most weight, and approximately how much?

I'm running rubber tires on asphalt. I'm using a MG servo, GT7, R300 (full sized) reciever, 3600 IB cells.

Thanks for any help
Chad

rc_bam226

What other weight saving options do you have on there? Or do you need suggestions?

SalvadoriRacing

you can save approx 30 grams doing this>>> aluminum dogbones (1gram each); carbon shaft (10 grams) ; switching from battery holder to battery strap (18 grams)......

There are inserts weighing up to 15 grams EACH......and others wheighing 15 grams PER SET..........try to play with inserts and find any combo that is good and lightweight.....

ChadCapece

Thanks SalvadoriRacing

rc Bam: I have removed the center deck and painted the body with thin paint.

I know this has been asked before, BUT how much weight will I save with the aluminium input shafts?

What tape is best for the batteries? Will I need to widen the slots for the tape?

rc_bam226

You can use either Fiberglass tape, or actual strapping tape for RC. You may need to widen the slots depending on the tape you use, and file down the edges of the tape slots, you don't want sharp edged graphite cutting through the battery tape.

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

-JB