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Old 05-01-2005, 09:42 PM   #13351
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I've been fighting droop/ ride-height problems also and finally figured out today in my second heat that my problem has been all along- lack of shock length/full extension. I haven't checked the length yet but 63-64mm-ish was the ticket.
Got a question about shock rebound though (w/o springs)- Do you want to be able to get a full extension of the shock shaft after compressing or are you concerned with only being able to compress the shaft completely w/o any rebound? Also the foam compensators, how does the shock react without these? Is it recommended not to use them? -JB
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Old 05-01-2005, 09:51 PM   #13352
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I didnt use the foamies so i dont know what they would of done. As far as the shock rebound, everyone has a different method, but as long as the shaft can be pushed in smoothly and all rebound to the same distance, you should be fine. I usually set my rebound to about half or 3/4 of full extension.
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Old 05-01-2005, 09:55 PM   #13353
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Quote:
Originally posted by JayBee
I've been fighting droop/ ride-height problems also and finally figured out today in my second heat that my problem has been all along- lack of shock length/full extension. I haven't checked the length yet but 63-64mm-ish was the ticket.
Got a question about shock rebound though (w/o springs)- Do you want to be able to get a full extension of the shock shaft after compressing or are you concerned with only being able to compress the shaft completely w/o any rebound? Also the foam compensators, how does the shock react without these? Is it recommended not to use them? -JB
If you're using the bladders then don't run the foam compensators. You really only need to worry about not having any air in the shocks, when you install the bladder top the excess oil should be pushed out of the shock. Bladder shocks will always have some rebound to them, as long as it's not pushing the shaft out real hard your fine.
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Old 05-01-2005, 10:01 PM   #13354
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pro4Capece
Has anybody tried these input shafts? Will they fit work with the SSG drivetrain?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...972593430&rd=1

thanks

I have them, they suck in terms of fit, the drive cups fit on with a lil play which causes the main shaft to wobble . I got the yokomo ones a couple weeks back, and they spin much truer.
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Old 05-01-2005, 10:05 PM   #13355
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
If you're using the bladders then don't run the foam compensators. You really only need to worry about not having any air in the shocks, when you install the bladder top the excess oil should be pushed out of the shock. Bladder shocks will always have some rebound to them, as long as it's not pushing the shaft out real hard your fine.
Thanx Matt...does this hold true for all bladder shocks 'cause I'm using Tamiya ones? Looks like I'm rebuilding my shocks again, yipee -JB
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Old 05-01-2005, 11:47 PM   #13356
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
If you're using the bladders then don't run the foam compensators.
Matt, what difference do you see with and without the foam pieces?
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Old 05-01-2005, 11:52 PM   #13357
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Quote:
Originally posted by pops
Matt, what difference do you see with and without the foam pieces?
using the foam compensators and the bladder tops the shock will feel "dead", it won't have much, if any, rebound. Besides, since I cut my triangle piece inside the shock body I can't use the foam compensators. You only need the compensators when your running the standard bleed hole type shock tops
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Old 05-02-2005, 06:57 AM   #13358
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Matt, I'm confused....My CGM SSS shocks are built according to the manual with clear diaphrams , foamies and Yokomo bleeder type pistons installed. I don't seem to have any problem with the compression or rebound.
Which pistons are you using that don't have bleeder holes?? Do you feel this makes the shock work better ??
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Old 05-02-2005, 09:01 AM   #13359
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Quote:
Originally posted by Evoracer
Matt, I'm confused....My CGM SSS shocks are built according to the manual with clear diaphrams , foamies and Yokomo bleeder type pistons installed. I don't seem to have any problem with the compression or rebound.
Which pistons are you using that don't have bleeder holes?? Do you feel this makes the shock work better ??
He is talking about the foam pieces (compensators) in the bottom of the shocks and the bleeder holes refer to the older plastic shock caps?
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Old 05-02-2005, 09:14 AM   #13360
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Yes, the foam pieces in the bottom of the shock body are the compensators and the bladders are the rubber diaphrams that go on top of the shock body. The bleed hole shocks caps are plastic and have a hole that you bleed the shock with and then put a screw in them. I'll have to go check to be sure but I'm pretty positive all the SD versions included the diaphrams, not the compensator/bleed hole cap type.
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Old 05-02-2005, 12:51 PM   #13361
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yup!
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Old 05-02-2005, 02:03 PM   #13362
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one difference does the foam bit under the bladder in the shock cap make?
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Old 05-02-2005, 07:31 PM   #13363
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anyone else break a out drive cup for the center shaft. broke two yesterday. first one didn't even know it was broke until i turned car on for main and saw center shaft flopping around, thanks to yoks design was able to change it in about a minute or so, but next one didn't last one lap. i was running a 9x2 cobalt with a one way. rough track, pavement, on thought i had was that when hitting a bump the front end unloads a bits and spins faster and when it hits the ground the shock is breaking the cup. does this make sense. i pulled the shaft out last night, all is good there.
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Old 05-02-2005, 08:07 PM   #13364
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I've broken a center cup. I just replaced it with another plastic one. As the cups wear out, the slop is increased, which might give the shaft pins room to tear into the plastic during an impact. That's my only explaination. Now if I can just figure out how to make the front universals more durable
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Old 05-02-2005, 08:20 PM   #13365
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Are you guys breaking the front cups or the rear?
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