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Old 05-16-2003, 08:01 AM   #1321
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Sosidge. greetings from Malta.

Certainly my experiences - an average of 4 packs a day for a whole week, show that on a fairly grippy tarmac surface the standard springs with 40 oil seem to work OK.

I set the top arms so that i have virtually no camber change and i have inclined the shocks more. Now I need to fine tune with droop settings.

Like yours mine has a tendency to understeer on power. I improved it with the 7 degree front blocks and I think I will improve it, as well as the oversteer when braking into corners caused by weight transfer but reducing the droop.

But it's getting better each day. Tomorrow I will take my old faithful BD car too and run them both, just to compare lap and race times.

Yes Ralf. I am alot happier now. Good luck Sunday.

GILLES. (Utieh). I have received the blocks. Do you want 5 degree or 7 degree. I have both.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 05-16-2003, 08:05 AM   #1322
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Thegame,
You can find White Lightening here:

http://www.schwabcycles.com/cgi/wc.d...ems~vendor~131

Just installed the one-way and swapped out the kit screws for a set of TakeOff titaniums.
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Old 05-16-2003, 08:06 AM   #1323
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let's try 7!
could u send me an e-mail
tahnks very much

Gilles
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Old 05-16-2003, 09:06 AM   #1324
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johnbull, I haven't seen the 7 degree front blocks, do you have a part # for them?
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Old 05-16-2003, 09:10 AM   #1325
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John Bull, do you have MIP rear CVDs for the mr4TC??
Thanks

Gilles
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Old 05-16-2003, 09:12 AM   #1326
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RANDMAN.

These are for the MR4 belt drive car but they are a direct fit on the SD.

I use them on mine.

They are Team Suzuki sold in Europe as Fastrax number FTMR04.

Rewgards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 05-16-2003, 09:53 AM   #1327
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ralf
Sosidge,

the std set-up is with one ways or front diff ?
Mine is with the diff.
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Old 05-16-2003, 10:50 AM   #1328
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Thanks for the info....
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Old 05-16-2003, 03:09 PM   #1329
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I just found that one of the pins in a rear CVD had slid out half way, so I HOPE that was part of the cars problem... if not, more work!
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Old 05-16-2003, 03:28 PM   #1330
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what setup are you running ? are you runnign outdoors or Indoors ?
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Old 05-16-2003, 07:02 PM   #1331
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If there is any question on the freeness of the driveline )and I don't think there is) don't worry. With nothing but proper shimming of the driveline and cleaning the bearings out, I have gotten a consistent 13-14 sec of spin. And thats a light spin. I even kept the rubber sealed diff bearings.....I can honestly say that this car lurches forward noticebly faster than my FT TC3 ever did. And I had hours and hours of work on the FT. Awesome job Yoke!!!
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Old 05-16-2003, 08:07 PM   #1332
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I will try to get a hold of the Suzuki Castor Blocks, hopefully it wont be too hard.
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Old 05-16-2003, 10:29 PM   #1333
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How many shims did you use in the front and rear ?
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Old 05-17-2003, 01:01 AM   #1334
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

THE GAME>

The Yoke SD is the freest car I have ever built. I'm impressed.

I build at least one car a week. It's my job, and I have built virtually every type in existance, Yokes, Schumis, TC3, Losi, Corally, HPI, Tamiya, you name it. My son runs the quickest TC3 in the country which I built and maintain for him. The bearings got the works and they have run for a full season now, but it's not a touch on my new SD in terms of free running.

I built the SD to kit instructions in so far as shimming is concerned, and I never bothered fiddling with bearing seals etc. It needed a few minutes running to loosen up but now that i have done some 20 packs - 100 minutes, it is the freest car i have ever handled.

So if yours is initially a bit tight, just put it on the track and run it - and run it - and run it.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 05-17-2003, 05:39 AM   #1335
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Quote:
Originally posted by THeGame
what setup are you running ? are you runnign outdoors or Indoors ?
Indoors, slippy floor, Shumacher narrow yellow minispike tyres, so most of the setup will be meaningless to a lot of people.

In fact, the car ran best with the stock settings, except for no anti-roll bars - 40wt oil, ride height 5mm front, 5.5mm rear, with droop of 2mm at the front (measured at the chassis), and 3mm at the rear, 2 degrees camber all round for even wear.

Everything else I tried so far has been worse - I was aiming to improve consistency on the limit.

I've softened the car up and increased droop for my next run, I'll be trying...

Front: Yellow springs, 40wt oil, 5mm ride height, 3mm droop
Rear: White springs, 30wt oil, 5.5mm ride height, 4mm droop

I've also removed the foam circles from the shock bladders, I felt they gave too much rebound, which is apparently not the thing you want when grip is low.

Lots of things to mess around with though, including less static camber, more rear camber change (raising the outer balljoint by 2mm), different droop settings, rear shocks in one hole on the wishbone etc etc etc...
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