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Old 04-16-2005, 08:27 PM   #13171
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Default Re: Re: which bearing????????

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Originally posted by JayBee
That's definitely not a Yokomo bearing; it looks like an 'ol regular bearing I got once from my LHS when one of my ceramics busted. You know what I'm talkin' about, one that comes out of a parts tray behind the counter . Matter of fact, I think I still have that bearing -JB
that's what I thought........thanks JB....
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Old 04-16-2005, 08:41 PM   #13172
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Maybe a Duratrax Teflon bearing.
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Old 04-16-2005, 08:49 PM   #13173
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YEP, I think you're right... -JB
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Old 04-17-2005, 09:34 AM   #13174
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Default Re: which bearing????????

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Originally posted by SalvadoriRacing
I bought an used yokomo SSG and I was taking the car apart when I noticed the bearings are different of my other SD (also used when I bought).....

so....which bearing is that??
Looks like a teflon shielded bearing, which are available from Yokomo. I get those all of the time.
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Old 04-17-2005, 02:14 PM   #13175
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Post Chassis tuning...

Regarding ride height, droop and weight balance, since all of these adjustments are related in some fashion, what is the order in which these should be set? I have 4-digital scales to check the weight at all four corners but adjusting the shock collars to get all four corners equal just doesn't seem right. It seems as though you are affecting shock travel to a large degree especially if a corner or two are off by a lot. Is there an accurate way to balance your car left-side/right-side without the scales or am I off on my thinking here?
ALL INPUT WOULD BE APPRECIATED -JB
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Old 04-18-2005, 11:22 AM   #13176
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Post Re: Chassis tuning...

Quote:
Originally posted by JayBee
Regarding ride height, droop and weight balance, since all of these adjustments are related in some fashion, what is the order in which these should be set? I have 4-digital scales to check the weight at all four corners but adjusting the shock collars to get all four corners equal just doesn't seem right. It seems as though you are affecting shock travel to a large degree especially if a corner or two are off by a lot. Is there an accurate way to balance your car left-side/right-side without the scales or am I off on my thinking here?
ALL INPUT WOULD BE APPRECIATED -JB
Matt...pops...johnbull... anybody? -JB
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Old 04-18-2005, 11:34 AM   #13177
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I set my ride height first, then droop, then I check the chassis tweek. I check the tweek by lifting the front end with an xacto knife in the middle of the front end, I then adjust the rear shocks so that both tires lift at the same time. However far I move one collar down I move the other side up to be able to keep the same ride height. I then do the same thing but for the rear of the car.
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Old 04-18-2005, 12:43 PM   #13178
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oneway of balancing your chassis is to mark an X out under each transmission case under the chassis by joining the screw holes up diagonaly and make a little mark in the centre where the lines meet do this front and back and you will have the exact centre of the car front and rear. so then either get some manufactured blocks or anything you can balance the car on with the point of the balancing thing being in the mark in the centre of the X, then you can adjust the weight left to right until it balnes off the scales.
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Old 04-18-2005, 01:33 PM   #13179
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The weight of my car is 1395 grams. I don't know the weight that it is suppose to be. Front left is 368.7g, Front right is 312.6g... Rear left is 345.3g and the Rear right is 367.7g. How do I even this out without having to jump back-n-forth between settings? There probably isn't a way is there -JB
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Old 04-18-2005, 06:16 PM   #13180
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First add 33 grams to the middle of the right side. Then weight again. Then adjust so that the left front and right front are equal. Same for rear. Then add 72 grams to the dead center of the chassis. Now your car is perfectly weighted.

For a more precise method: Remove tires and shocks. Weight both items. Subtract from 1500. Then balance out the chassis w/o tires or shocks.

If you add weight to get 1500 then you will actually run over 1500 with a body. But since a body is equal on both sides, you will be fine.
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Old 04-18-2005, 06:26 PM   #13181
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Post Pro4Capace...

Quote:
Originally posted by Pro4Capece
First add 33 grams to the middle of the right side. Then weight again. Then adjust so that the left front and right front are equal. Same for rear. Then add 72 grams to the dead center of the chassis. Now your car is perfectly weighted.

For a more precise method: Remove tires and shocks. Weight both items. Subtract from 1500. Then balance out the chassis w/o tires or shocks.

If you add weight to get 1500 then you will actually run over 1500 with a body. But since a body is equal on both sides, you will be fine.
Thanks man,
I will do that but when you say adjust so that the left front and right front are equal... adjust what?
-JB
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Old 04-18-2005, 06:33 PM   #13182
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Default Re: Pro4Capace...

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Originally posted by JayBee
Thanks man,
I will do that but when you say adjust so that the left front and right front are equal... adjust what?
-JB
Position of the weights.
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Old 04-18-2005, 06:52 PM   #13183
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Post Re: Re: Pro4Capace...

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Originally posted by Pro4Capece
Position of the weights.
Cool, will do... thanx again -JB
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Old 04-18-2005, 07:39 PM   #13184
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Default Re: Re: Re: Pro4Capace...

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Originally posted by JayBee
Cool, will do... thanx again -JB
No problem
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Old 04-18-2005, 07:49 PM   #13185
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jaybee, just a reminder, no one around weighs our cars for club races, you only need to worry about the 1500 for a two race like at 4 seasons or rain city. and not sure about 4 seasons and if you are going to set it to 1500, grams, around here we use ounces not grams and i think its 52oz or 53oz, call rain city to make sure.
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