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Old 04-05-2005, 05:10 PM   #13081
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Quote:
Originally posted by v0rtex
Does anyone know if the new LCG conversion will convert a CGM ok, or will it only convert an SSG or Black?

I assume the CGM would be OK because its just a different chassis on the CGM, right?
It looks like only the suspension and diff/oneways are carried over so it "should" be able to convert a CGM with no problem
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Old 04-05-2005, 08:34 PM   #13082
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Default Re: broken drivepins

Quote:
Originally posted by agower
Hi,

i keep on sanpping the pins that attach the axel to the dogbone when i am runing a spool. i must of gone through about 15 of the pins. it always seems to be the front right wheel everytime, i hav tried replacing the axles and theactual dogone but cant stop it.

i only race 27t indoors and yes i do crash and it does break then sometimesm but others it just randomly breaks?

i hav just been trying it on the road outside my house where it has randomly snapped today, but today it didny and i was going for about 20minutes so i am confused with what could be causing it?

is it that the bin grub screw holding the pin in place comes undone slightly so the pin moves along and so the pin is snapped becuase there is more force over the little area? is there anything i can do to stop this if it is?

or is there something that i have missed?

many thanks
A Gower
First race out,I had the same problem this weekend, snapped the left front axle pin in the first qualy, and the right front in the second qualy. I had threadlocked it and tightened in down, but i think the problem is that the pin is soo hard and brittle, the grub screw cant "hold" onto the pin, therefore slowly vibrating,slipping out and snapping. I was running a steel spool up front so that probably loosened it a little faster.

Not having any spare axle pins, i made two out of some LOSI body clips, roughend up the surface where the grub screw sits and didnt have a problem the rest of the day.

Other than that, car is awesome with the stock settings except AE 35oil and Matt H's droop setting(thanks). I will probably go harder on the springs and that is it.

I probably wont run the losi axle pins for long lol, does anyone know of better CVDs or Universals?
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Old 04-05-2005, 09:45 PM   #13083
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
It looks like only the suspension and diff/oneways are carried over so it "should" be able to convert a CGM with no problem
i think the servo posts will be different from the cgm to lcg, i "think" the lcg will use the ssg/sdw posts, (longer)
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Old 04-05-2005, 11:48 PM   #13084
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Default Re: Re: broken drivepins

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Originally posted by Johnnytc3
does anyone know of better CVDs or Universals?
Use the Hardened universals from the mr4tc special, the OLD belt drive car. Hopefully Pops can pop in here and give you the part # since I never write it down anywhere. They're the best universal for the front of the car
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Old 04-06-2005, 12:12 AM   #13085
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Are these the same as the $39.99 hardened ones on SPEEDTECH?
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Old 04-06-2005, 12:18 AM   #13086
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you'd have to ask Steve, he would know, but I know he did carry them.
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Old 04-06-2005, 01:22 PM   #13087
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Default Re: Re: Re: broken drivepins

Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
Use the Hardened universals from the mr4tc special, the OLD belt drive car. Hopefully Pops can pop in here and give you the part # since I never write it down anywhere. They're the best universal for the front of the car
ZS-010FH
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Old 04-06-2005, 06:24 PM   #13088
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Hey pops,
You mentioned setting my droop to 6mm in front & 5mm in the rear. How are you measuring this? Since there's a few different ways to get there, which method do you have? With the wheels taken off, I measure the end of my arms( how far they drop down in relation to the chassis) and make sure it hits the mm's I want on the droop gauge. I'm using the AE one where it has a flat side that reaches over underneath the chassis. But when I put the wheels back on, I hold the wheels down and lift up the chassis and only get a difference of 2.5-3mm of uptravel. This is from starting at a ride height of 5mm and ending my uptravel at 7.5-8mm. I thought 6mm of front droop is 6mm of uptravel added to the starting ride height. Am I incorrect on this? - JB
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Old 04-06-2005, 06:25 PM   #13089
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Thanks POPS!
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Old 04-07-2005, 01:57 PM   #13090
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Thumbs up Greetings Pops....

ygpm...and thank you for the parts.
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Old 04-07-2005, 03:36 PM   #13091
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Quote:
Originally posted by JayBee
Hey pops,
You mentioned setting my droop to 6mm in front & 5mm in the rear. How are you measuring this? Since there's a few different ways to get there, which method do you have? With the wheels taken off, I measure the end of my arms( how far they drop down in relation to the chassis) and make sure it hits the mm's I want on the droop gauge. I'm using the AE one where it has a flat side that reaches over underneath the chassis. But when I put the wheels back on, I hold the wheels down and lift up the chassis and only get a difference of 2.5-3mm of uptravel. This is from starting at a ride height of 5mm and ending my uptravel at 7.5-8mm. I thought 6mm of front droop is 6mm of uptravel added to the starting ride height. Am I incorrect on this? - JB
I use a Yokomo ride height droop gauge, I think it is the same as the AE type, can't remember. The setting is taken the same as you are doing without the wheels to the end of the arm. The droop is the amount of suspension travel. The reading of say a 6 on the droop gauge is less than 4. The lesser number being more suspension travel.
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Old 04-07-2005, 03:37 PM   #13092
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Default Re: Greetings Pops....

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Originally posted by Mabuchi540
ygpm...and thank you for the parts.
No problem glad you could use them.
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Old 04-07-2005, 05:36 PM   #13093
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Default Shimming?

I got my assortment of shims today. I've been tearing down the tranny and realized that I can't visually shim it. How are you guys shimming the gears when you can't see the mesh?
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Old 04-07-2005, 05:52 PM   #13094
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Default Re: Shimming?

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Originally posted by Pro4Capece
I got my assortment of shims today. I've been tearing down the tranny and realized that I can't visually shim it. How are you guys shimming the gears when you can't see the mesh?
By how it feels. Leaving the inoput shaft in with the gear, and diff/one-way in place. Just feeling the amount of play that is there or not there. Similar to how you set your gear mesh between the spur and pinion.
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Old 04-07-2005, 11:13 PM   #13095
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Quote:
Originally posted by pops
The reading of say a 6 on the droop gauge is less than 4. The lesser number being more suspension travel.
I guess I'm an idiot pops but please elaborate on this.
Question: If my ride height is 4mm and when I lift my car up I get 8mm on the ride height gauge, my droop/uptravel/wheel sag,etc. is 4mm corrrect? I understand alot of things about the car but this particular measurement, I DON'T. All I want is A consistent way to get the droop I want.
Not everyone chime in at once
Thanx fellas -JB
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