Yokomo MR-4TC SD
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (24)

Sparx and Racer,
I was told by Robert at yokomo that you can use the hardened universals if you grind or sand down the end of the ball to the pin on the one way side. I would imagine you could use any drive shaft if you did that as well.
Blake
I was told by Robert at yokomo that you can use the hardened universals if you grind or sand down the end of the ball to the pin on the one way side. I would imagine you could use any drive shaft if you did that as well.
Blake

Originally posted by Blakesrc
Sparx and Racer,
I was told by Robert at yokomo that you can use the hardened universals if you grind or sand down the end of the ball to the pin on the one way side. I would imagine you could use any drive shaft if you did that as well.
Blake
Sparx and Racer,
I was told by Robert at yokomo that you can use the hardened universals if you grind or sand down the end of the ball to the pin on the one way side. I would imagine you could use any drive shaft if you did that as well.
Blake
Our brothers in Japan? or Masami? Can Help?
And since its MIP, it only uses American (standard) nuts, not metric? Am I correct?
The MIP looks really beefy if your using a spool.

Originally posted by Al Williams
Does anybody know the part numbers for the SDW suspension arms. Are the front ones even available yet. I ordered some SD008HW, - are these just the rear ones ?
Does anybody know the part numbers for the SDW suspension arms. Are the front ones even available yet. I ordered some SD008HW, - are these just the rear ones ?
SD-200LW SERVO SAVER MOUNT (PAIR)
SD-200BW SERVO SAVER POST & COLLET
SD-118GW BATTERY PLATE (GRAPHITE)
SD-118MW BATTERY POST (PAIR)
SD-300FFW ALUM FRONT SUSPENSION MOUNT (FRONT PIECE)
SD-300FRW ALUM FRONT SUSPENSION MOUNT (REAR PIECE)
SD-630W SPUR GEAR HUB
SD-302W ALUM TRANSMISSION CASE
SD-010FW FRONT UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFT (W/SPACER)
SD-010RW REAR UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFT (W/SPACER)
SD-008HW FRONT & REAR LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
SD-304W MOTOR MOUNT
SD-017W FRONT SHOCK TOWER (GRAPHITE)
SD-018W REAR SHOCK TOWER (GRAPHITE)
SD-003W UPPER DECK (GRAPHITE)
SD-016RF REAR BODY MOUNT PLATE (FRONT) (GRAPHITE)
SD-016RR REAR BODY MOUNT PLATE (REAR) (GRAPHITE)
SD-002W MAIN CHASSIS (GRAPHITE)
SD-412WF FRONT ANTI-ROLL BAR SET
SD-412WR REAR ANTI-ROLL BAR SET
SD-016HW FRONT BODY MOUNT SUPPORT (GRAPHITE)
ZC-206SA ALUM BALL STUD HARD COATED (W/STOPPER)
SD-644W MAIN DRIVE SHAFT (HOLLOW GRAPHITE)

made the dive
i have blakesrc to blame.




Originally posted by Hebiki
made the dive
i have blakesrc to blame.
made the dive





Originally posted by lem2
In the RAYSPEED MIP CVD unit, the instruction is in Japanese, I understand the part about shimming the front one way cups, what I cant figure out is: if we use the RS-MIP CVD's in front, do we have to trim a part of the Alum HEX hubs?
Our brothers in Japan? or Masami? Can Help?
And since its MIP, it only uses American (standard) nuts, not metric? Am I correct?
The MIP looks really beefy if your using a spool.
In the RAYSPEED MIP CVD unit, the instruction is in Japanese, I understand the part about shimming the front one way cups, what I cant figure out is: if we use the RS-MIP CVD's in front, do we have to trim a part of the Alum HEX hubs?
Our brothers in Japan? or Masami? Can Help?
And since its MIP, it only uses American (standard) nuts, not metric? Am I correct?
The MIP looks really beefy if your using a spool.

Originally posted by racer
has anyone swapped out the SDW's universals for dogbones?
if yes, which ones did you use for the front/back?
would the ones found on the SD work with the SDW?
Thanks in advance!
has anyone swapped out the SDW's universals for dogbones?
if yes, which ones did you use for the front/back?
would the ones found on the SD work with the SDW?
Thanks in advance!

the bones are the same front and back, only the axle part is different.

Originally posted by ritchie
with the mip/rayspeed axles you need to file down the back side of the wheel hex so when you tighten the axle nut it doesn't bind. only takes a couple of minutes i've done it, no biggie. and they use the metric nuts.
with the mip/rayspeed axles you need to file down the back side of the wheel hex so when you tighten the axle nut it doesn't bind. only takes a couple of minutes i've done it, no biggie. and they use the metric nuts.
HEBIKI: Hi! where do you race in La Mirada? Or you go down all the way to Aliso Viejo or SoCal??

Originally posted by lem2
Thanks ritchie!!!
HEBIKI: Hi! where do you race in La Mirada? Or you go down all the way to Aliso Viejo or SoCal??
Thanks ritchie!!!
HEBIKI: Hi! where do you race in La Mirada? Or you go down all the way to Aliso Viejo or SoCal??


Originally posted by Blakesrc
Sparx and Racer,
I was told by Robert at yokomo that you can use the hardened universals if you grind or sand down the end of the ball to the pin on the one way side. I would imagine you could use any drive shaft if you did that as well.
Blake
Sparx and Racer,
I was told by Robert at yokomo that you can use the hardened universals if you grind or sand down the end of the ball to the pin on the one way side. I would imagine you could use any drive shaft if you did that as well.
Blake

Tech Master
iTrader: (1)

Originally posted by Sparx
I'm running the original steel CV's from SSG on my car, no need to grind anything and they hold up for 12-turn rubber real good
I'm running the original steel CV's from SSG on my car, no need to grind anything and they hold up for 12-turn rubber real good



Weird, i'm running One-way and i cant see or hear any rubbing, must look after more

Tech Master
iTrader: (1)

Originally posted by Sparx
Weird, i'm running One-way and i cant see or hear any rubbing, must look after more
Weird, i'm running One-way and i cant see or hear any rubbing, must look after more



aha ok, i'll take a look at that then, thanks

Tech Regular

I remember someone posted a pic using x-ray spring steel drive shafts in the front end.