Yokomo MR-4TC SD

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Old 02-15-2005, 04:03 PM
  #12436  
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Sparx and Racer,

I was told by Robert at yokomo that you can use the hardened universals if you grind or sand down the end of the ball to the pin on the one way side. I would imagine you could use any drive shaft if you did that as well.

Blake
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Old 02-15-2005, 05:31 PM
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Originally posted by Blakesrc
Sparx and Racer,

I was told by Robert at yokomo that you can use the hardened universals if you grind or sand down the end of the ball to the pin on the one way side. I would imagine you could use any drive shaft if you did that as well.

Blake
In the RAYSPEED MIP CVD unit, the instruction is in Japanese, I understand the part about shimming the front one way cups, what I cant figure out is: if we use the RS-MIP CVD's in front, do we have to trim a part of the Alum HEX hubs?

Our brothers in Japan? or Masami? Can Help?

And since its MIP, it only uses American (standard) nuts, not metric? Am I correct?

The MIP looks really beefy if your using a spool.
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Old 02-15-2005, 07:58 PM
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Default Re: Part number for SDW arms

Originally posted by Al Williams
Does anybody know the part numbers for the SDW suspension arms. Are the front ones even available yet. I ordered some SD008HW, - are these just the rear ones ?
This is SDW part number for all you guys reference. SD-008hw is 1 pc front and 1 pc rear arm

SD-200LW SERVO SAVER MOUNT (PAIR)
SD-200BW SERVO SAVER POST & COLLET
SD-118GW BATTERY PLATE (GRAPHITE)
SD-118MW BATTERY POST (PAIR)
SD-300FFW ALUM FRONT SUSPENSION MOUNT (FRONT PIECE)
SD-300FRW ALUM FRONT SUSPENSION MOUNT (REAR PIECE)
SD-630W SPUR GEAR HUB
SD-302W ALUM TRANSMISSION CASE
SD-010FW FRONT UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFT (W/SPACER)
SD-010RW REAR UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFT (W/SPACER)
SD-008HW FRONT & REAR LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
SD-304W MOTOR MOUNT
SD-017W FRONT SHOCK TOWER (GRAPHITE)
SD-018W REAR SHOCK TOWER (GRAPHITE)
SD-003W UPPER DECK (GRAPHITE)
SD-016RF REAR BODY MOUNT PLATE (FRONT) (GRAPHITE)
SD-016RR REAR BODY MOUNT PLATE (REAR) (GRAPHITE)
SD-002W MAIN CHASSIS (GRAPHITE)
SD-412WF FRONT ANTI-ROLL BAR SET
SD-412WR REAR ANTI-ROLL BAR SET
SD-016HW FRONT BODY MOUNT SUPPORT (GRAPHITE)
ZC-206SA ALUM BALL STUD HARD COATED (W/STOPPER)
SD-644W MAIN DRIVE SHAFT (HOLLOW GRAPHITE)
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:10 PM
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Default SDW

made the dive i have blakesrc to blame.
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:13 PM
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Originally posted by Hebiki
made the dive i have blakesrc to blame.
I knew it
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:43 PM
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Originally posted by lem2
In the RAYSPEED MIP CVD unit, the instruction is in Japanese, I understand the part about shimming the front one way cups, what I cant figure out is: if we use the RS-MIP CVD's in front, do we have to trim a part of the Alum HEX hubs?

Our brothers in Japan? or Masami? Can Help?

And since its MIP, it only uses American (standard) nuts, not metric? Am I correct?

The MIP looks really beefy if your using a spool.
with the mip/rayspeed axles you need to file down the back side of the wheel hex so when you tighten the axle nut it doesn't bind. only takes a couple of minutes i've done it, no biggie. and they use the metric nuts.
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:44 PM
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Originally posted by racer
has anyone swapped out the SDW's universals for dogbones?
if yes, which ones did you use for the front/back?
would the ones found on the SD work with the SDW?

Thanks in advance!
i only switched out the fronts, i'm using a set off a ssg/cgm
the bones are the same front and back, only the axle part is different.
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Old 02-15-2005, 11:09 PM
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Originally posted by ritchie
with the mip/rayspeed axles you need to file down the back side of the wheel hex so when you tighten the axle nut it doesn't bind. only takes a couple of minutes i've done it, no biggie. and they use the metric nuts.
Thanks ritchie!!!

HEBIKI: Hi! where do you race in La Mirada? Or you go down all the way to Aliso Viejo or SoCal??
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Old 02-16-2005, 01:45 AM
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Originally posted by lem2
Thanks ritchie!!!

HEBIKI: Hi! where do you race in La Mirada? Or you go down all the way to Aliso Viejo or SoCal??
yup.. i race at all three locations. but the SDW is not allowed at the Tamiya track on saturdays. if i get into the Reedy race, i'll be using that car for sure.
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Old 02-16-2005, 06:14 AM
  #12445  
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Originally posted by Blakesrc
Sparx and Racer,

I was told by Robert at yokomo that you can use the hardened universals if you grind or sand down the end of the ball to the pin on the one way side. I would imagine you could use any drive shaft if you did that as well.

Blake
I'm running the original steel CV's from SSG on my car, no need to grind anything and they hold up for 12-turn rubber real good
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Old 02-16-2005, 08:36 AM
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Originally posted by Sparx
I'm running the original steel CV's from SSG on my car, no need to grind anything and they hold up for 12-turn rubber real good
You must be running a diff and not a one-way. More clearance is needed for a one way.
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Old 02-16-2005, 08:46 AM
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Weird, i'm running One-way and i cant see or hear any rubbing, must look after more
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Old 02-16-2005, 08:55 AM
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Originally posted by Sparx
Weird, i'm running One-way and i cant see or hear any rubbing, must look after more
It is not so much rubbing as that when the suspension compresses, the ball on the bone will bottom out inside the the outdrive, it should happen on a dff too, most likely hit the diff screw too. You just have to grind down the ball just about even with the pins on the bone.
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Old 02-16-2005, 09:16 AM
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aha ok, i'll take a look at that then, thanks
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Old 02-16-2005, 11:14 AM
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I remember someone posted a pic using x-ray spring steel drive shafts in the front end.
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