ritchie

i have been told it should be the same and does not matter,

however, when my sdw stripped a 70t spur and i changed it a 77t spur i no longer believe this. i'm not going to try and explain it, you have to do it for yourself and see if you can tell the difference, some can't, i could,

rough512

iTrader: (12)

Kindly describe the difference.

Mr. Shookie

iTrader: (9)

I finally got the Yok Ti Screw set. All I can say is WOW. I took every screw out and put them in a bag (stainless) and took the ti screw kit and did the old one hand weighs more trick but it realy does make that big a difference. Also they give you every screw except the screw that attaches the bevel gear, It ok I had a couple of ti screws from another kit that fit, but when I looked around at other ti screw kits for other car makers...I cringed, they want almost $100 from lundsford,,,,ouch, glad I got me a YOK...LOL
Anyhow just got a set of Acer Ceramics, that I also installed since I was tearign the whole car down for the screws anyhow, All I can say is once you go to ceramics, nothing else will do.
I did the saem thing with my TC3 before I got my Rayspeed SD and was able to take off 1.3 seconds per lap with teh change of just bearings so I look forward to racing next weekend to see if I have improved my lap times again. I believe I will be happy woth the results.
Has there been anyone who says they were slower when changing to ceramics?????
Just wondering.
GOOD LUCK TO ALL RACING THIS WEEKEND.....Hey go and get your girl some flowers and buy her dinner. Valantines day is Monday.....Just a friendly reminder so you don't get put in the dog house.
Stephen <><

rovic

ponder this?

if you have 2 sets of gears:
* diameter of a 48p spur / pinion gear are the same with 64p spur / pinion. would they have the same role out?

* does gear mesh play a part in the role out? if the spacing in the tooth is deeper on the 48p than the 64p? would the 48p gear actualy have a smaller diameter than the 64p when they are in contact with each other? (when you check gear mesh, contact is in the middle of the teeth, not at the point; so the diameter of the gear is smaller right?)

if think of this all the time...

92tsi

could anyone donate some parts to me, i need some steering parts sucha s the servo saver assembly, and anything else you dont need old foams and stuff like that. If your in michigan im at larrys and rc screwz

Mabuchi540

I've just finished painting one of these bodies and I'm wondering if the extra downforce it's supposed to have is in reference to the front or back or is it both over all?

I ask because the body (an HPI Vauxhall Astra) and settings I have at the moment have resulted in a certain setup to get it handling to my liking and I'd like to know what (if any) changes I should notice to a particular given set up?

For example if it has more downforce in the rear will I end up having to alter the setup to get the amount of steering back to how it is now...that sort of thing?

Edit: Here's a link to a picture of the body I currently run.....

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXECF4&P=7

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

The type D is a pretty "neutral" body so you shouldn't need to alter your setup very much. I've run them before and it runs fine, you'll like it.

Mabuchi540

I'll leave my setup the way it is then when I have my first run with it at the Nats coming up in March. Don't want to get it all scratched and dirty before hand you understand.

Change of subject.....

Is it normal for the outdrive bearings (standard bearings with light oil similar to the oil in the ceramics I have ready to go in) to almost dry out after only 2 runs?

I'm wondering if it's.....

A: Common with kit bearings lightly oiled.
or
B: Just bad luck because the surface was dusty.

All the other bearings are fine, admittedly they need re-oiling but not because they feel dry, just because it's a good idea with the thin stuff.

My main concern is if it's the thin oil in combo with the location of the bearings wouldn't the same thing happen when I put in the ceramics?

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

If you're running on a dusty surface it's probably good to clean them out every weekend, ceramic or not. I usually go a month or so before I clean and reoil my bearings but the tracks I raced on were pretty clean.

Mabuchi540

nice to know it's the surface rather than anything else, I assume it's just their exposed side (relative to the other enclosed ones of course) that is the problem then.

Wish there was some way to have a felt like seal like the ole RC10 used to have...now there's a thought.

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Does anybody know the lbs. rating of the SD 'kit' stainless springs? And also the black springs?

- JB

Bluey_74

iTrader: (5)

For you Guys hat are lucky enough to have an SDW at the moment, (mines still on laybuy!) Does the kit have Ceramic bearings, or are the Kit "Precision" Bearings just standard ones?

wes

iTrader: (1)

Part Number Colour Spring Rate lbs/inch
YS-1360 Black 9.67
YS-1355 Blue 10.45
YS-1465 White 11.01
YS-1460 Hot Yellow 12.85
YS-14525 Stainless 12.89
YS-14575 Hot Pink 13.09
YS-1455 Hot Green 13.75
YS-1450 Hot Orange 17.68

YS-1560 Dark Green 16.21
YS-1660 Red 18.29
YS-1655 Yellow 22.54
YS-1650 Green 24.87
YS-1760 Silver 25.89
YS-1755 Grey 26.38
YS-1750 Brown 32.08

rc_bam226

The SDW comes with precision bearings. They are not the ceramic ones, (I WISH), the precision ones are just high quality bearings.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

Just so everyone knows, Jason Schreffler is driving probably the only Yokomo at the snowbirds and qualified 4th in the A in sedan stock. I was told he was driving his Rayspeed car as well so it looks like the slightly more flexible car can be made to work on super high traction carpet tracks.