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Old 02-04-2005, 12:49 AM   #12226
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Default Droop again

This droop thing has got me a little confused.

What I normally do is put my car flat on the table, and then lift the rear\front end up from the center. At this point the car will have tires on. With a normal ride height guage I look to see when the tires lift from the table. I usually set this to 2 mm both front and rear.

Now on a set of Hudy Blocks the above translates to about 8 on the scale. I usually measure under the king pins.

Also I notice, a lot of what I call droop is just the "flex" in the tyre mold, - so the droop screws are pretty much locked down, and the only "up movement" being generated by tyre flex.

Am I doing this right ?
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Old 02-04-2005, 02:14 AM   #12227
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Default

One thing with the universals that come on the worlds car, the linkage wears out very fast
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Old 02-04-2005, 02:34 AM   #12228
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Exclamation Setup from GP Worldcup

Hi out there!

I'm looking for a Set-up for the CRF-Track in Switzerland, where the GP Worldcup was held.

Can anyone help me?

It's for a MR-4 TC SD SSG with CS-27 Tires.

Greetingz
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Old 02-04-2005, 03:12 AM   #12229
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Default Re: Droop again

Quote:
Originally posted by Al Williams
This droop thing has got me a little confused.

What I normally do is put my car flat on the table, and then lift the rear\front end up from the center. At this point the car will have tires on. With a normal ride height guage I look to see when the tires lift from the table. I usually set this to 2 mm both front and rear.

Now on a set of Hudy Blocks the above translates to about 8 on the scale. I usually measure under the king pins.

Also I notice, a lot of what I call droop is just the "flex" in the tyre mold, - so the droop screws are pretty much locked down, and the only "up movement" being generated by tyre flex.

Am I doing this right ?
You need to have more than just tyre flex in your droop equation. You could be running too little droop if its pretty much on the limiters at standard ride height.
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Old 02-04-2005, 03:52 AM   #12230
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Default Re: Droop again

Quote:
Originally posted by Al Williams
This droop thing has got me a little confused.

What I normally do is put my car flat on the table, and then lift the rear\front end up from the center. At this point the car will have tires on. With a normal ride height guage I look to see when the tires lift from the table. I usually set this to 2 mm both front and rear.

Now on a set of Hudy Blocks the above translates to about 8 on the scale. I usually measure under the king pins.

Also I notice, a lot of what I call droop is just the "flex" in the tyre mold, - so the droop screws are pretty much locked down, and the only "up movement" being generated by tyre flex.

Am I doing this right ?
Yokomo sells a Droop/ Ride height tool thats gives you a explaination of how to set up Droop and ride height.

You should check out YOKOMO's web site and see the different types of Droop, ride hegiht, etc set up ... that everyone has.

A better idea is going to your LHS-Track and asking people what there set up is. Just to give you an idea of what your local racers are using and what works. From there, adjust your car to your driving style. Hope that helps. Good luck.

Last edited by ZeroCooL; 02-04-2005 at 04:14 AM.
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Old 02-04-2005, 06:30 AM   #12231
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Re shocks. Once I was going to need longer shock bodies I went for a set of AE TC3 shocks. I had a spare set lying around. They are a straight fit on the CGM. They are longer so allow for more adjustments, and you can have as much droop as you like.

I have now fitted a set of Corally Assassin / RDX shocks. They are beautiful. They have now been on for almost a full season and are still perfect.

I have now had the CGM for over a year and the more I run it the more I like it. I have been in RC over 12 years and this is the best car I've ever had - and I've had a few.
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Old 02-04-2005, 08:32 AM   #12232
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
and I've had a few.
Quit Braggin'

LOL

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Old 02-04-2005, 08:43 AM   #12233
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Default Ok so I ordered some Rayspeed pistons....

what I wanted was ones that had the equivalent dampening to Yokomo 3 holes pistons, so my bad I asked for 3 hole ones the same as Yokomo. What I got was 3 hole Rayspeed ones 3 x 1.2mm waaay bigger than the Yokes.

So if I want to keep any particular spring setup does anybody have an idea as to what grade oil I'll need to get to maintain equivalent dampening?
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Old 02-04-2005, 08:45 AM   #12234
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Tervor, yes my rear ones have about a 1/2 of turn of play in them, the fronts i never ran. (afraid to break them)
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Old 02-04-2005, 09:32 AM   #12235
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Default

Gear ratio question here.
I run a tight tech track asphalt with rubber CS27-36 tires.
I run a stock motor pushing 36000rpm @7.2V so what would be a good ratio I was trying 7.79 which is to much for it as i started to smoke....I think I running a mod motor before and kept the same pinion when I went back to stock. So any suggestions would be helpfull. I was thinking 6.90-7.20 is this range good for stock motors?
Thanks,
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Old 02-04-2005, 09:37 AM   #12236
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what's the straight length??
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Old 02-04-2005, 09:38 AM   #12237
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Default Re: Ok so I ordered some Rayspeed pistons....

Quote:
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
what I wanted was ones that had the equivalent dampening to Yokomo 3 holes pistons, so my bad I asked for 3 hole ones the same as Yokomo. What I got was 3 hole Rayspeed ones 3 x 1.2mm waaay bigger than the Yokes.

So if I want to keep any particular spring setup does anybody have an idea as to what grade oil I'll need to get to maintain equivalent dampening?
The holes are bigger, but remember there is less blow-by around the pistons than the Yoke pistons. The Rayspeed pistons have a larger diameter. You might want to try the same wt oil and see what happens first.
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Old 02-04-2005, 09:48 AM   #12238
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mr. Shookie
Gear ratio question here.
I run a tight tech track asphalt with rubber CS27-36 tires.
I run a stock motor pushing 36000rpm @7.2V so what would be a good ratio I was trying 7.79 which is to much for it as i started to smoke....I think I running a mod motor before and kept the same pinion when I went back to stock. So any suggestions would be helpfull. I was thinking 6.90-7.20 is this range good for stock motors?
Thanks,
Stephen <><
If your motor was starting to smoke at 7.79 why would you want to try and gear up to 6.9? You will turn the smoke to fire If I remember right, on a Monster Stock you should start out at around 8.3 to 7.5? What stock motor were you running?
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Old 02-04-2005, 09:48 AM   #12239
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Default Re: Re: Ok so I ordered some Rayspeed pistons....

Quote:
Originally posted by pops
The holes are bigger, but remember there is less blow-by around the pistons than the Yoke pistons. The Rayspeed pistons have a larger diameter. You might want to try the same wt oil and see what happens first.
Will do, I assume that if it is a bit soft then big jumps in grade wont be needed though. For instance I'm on 450 now so try a 500 if needed but not as much as a 600> etc?

Last edited by Mabuchi540; 02-04-2005 at 10:01 AM.
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Old 02-04-2005, 09:49 AM   #12240
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mr. Shookie
Gear ratio question here.
I run a tight tech track asphalt with rubber CS27-36 tires.
I run a stock motor pushing 36000rpm @7.2V so what would be a good ratio I was trying 7.79 which is to much for it as i started to smoke....I think I running a mod motor before and kept the same pinion when I went back to stock. So any suggestions would be helpfull. I was thinking 6.90-7.20 is this range good for stock motors?
Thanks,
Stephen <><
If the motor started to smoke at 7.79 then I would try something around 8.0-8.2. A good starting point on the monster stock on an average size track is 7.0-7.4
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