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Old 01-27-2005, 04:54 PM   #12046
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Ok, all you SDW owners out there. Just curious if any of you have tried running your setups from your standard SD's and if so what handling differences did you notice? What changes did you have to make etc and how was the stock setup out of the box?

Thanks,

Blake
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Old 01-27-2005, 04:58 PM   #12047
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not trying to start any arguements but next time your at a big race (nationals/worlds) spin a couple of factory drivers diffs and/or a diff of any x-ray car. then you will know.
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Old 01-27-2005, 07:59 PM   #12048
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Post Re: silicone

Quote:
Originally posted by rovic
. and ive found that the ae black silicone and ae clear silicone to be the best.
I second that...I like AE's black grease for my tungs- carbide thrust balls, and the clear silicone for my carbide diff balls. But since I went to ceramic bearings, I want to try ceramic balls all the way around. There's also different grades of ceramics; I believe Grade#3 through to Grade#25 or more. The lower the Grade, the better the bearings/balls. BOCA Ceramic Bearings for our Yoke SD's are a whopping $196.00 for Grade#5. And $2-4 'per' ball if you want to get them for your thrust or diff balls. There's more options in ceramic make-up when you're talking about varied usage and temp. rating also ie... running nitro. So if you got the money to waste, there are more choices for ya

Sorry for the rant...

- JB
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Old 01-27-2005, 09:52 PM   #12049
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Quick question....

to save a search....

In the Yokomo springs from softest to hardest it's yellow > silver > pink > bright green right?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-27-2005, 09:55 PM   #12050
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Default diffs

Ive tried a couple of different greases.
but twhat i found that got me a better performance increase, was Tungsten Crabide diff balls.
They cost a bit more, and are harder on the diff rings, but they roll so much better.
I put these in the Delrin diff halves abd they were magic.
Ive just been using Tamyia black grease, (not sure whats its called) and normal clear -ish suff on the balls themselves.
Its nothing fantastic, but it works!
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:24 PM   #12051
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Quote:
In the Yokomo springs from softest to hardest it's yellow > silver > pink > bright green
the order from soft to hard is:
black > white > blue > yellow > pink > stainless > green > orange (the hardest pro-series)



Quote:
Tungsten Crabide diff balls


jb; i would actualy use acer stuff before boca, especialy towards bearings, bocas tend to break. save it for the nats.
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:44 PM   #12052
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Quote:
Originally posted by rovic

jb; i would actualy use acer stuff before boca, especialy towards bearings, bocas tend to break. save it for the nats.
I was actually just mentioning some info on the BOCA bearings... in my Rayspeed I just put in Acer ceramic bearings and I like them ALOT . I want to try the Yokomo ceramics though.

- JB
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:56 PM   #12053
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rovic,, speaking of nats, have you tired that red stuff they were giving away at nats in portland. super smooth, so smooth in fact that the diff doesn't work, no matter how tight the diff screw, the diff will slip.

for my diffs i've always used the joel johnson stuff on both the diff balls and thrust bearing, and my diffs are the envy of the track. however after being told by B.E. himself, the best stuff on the market is the a.e. diff lube and black grease, i've been using it, i can't really tell the difference but then again, i'm no b.e..

the sandy-ness that you are feeling is probably because your diff screw is still to tight. when i'm done building a diff i tighten the screw all the way down and then start backing it off until they feel smooth, and then check for tightness (slipping), they have always been tight with no slippage, AND i don't have to readjust after a few laps. also i am using the carbide balls from A.E. think they are around 12 bucks. i have them in all my yoks and my LOSI truck

and for a little trick to help stiffen up the front diff without over tighting the diff screw, i use the trinity purple grease, the stuff made for the rear pod on 1/12 pan cars. it doesn't last for ever but it will make a race day or two. you can also use tamiya, AW grease.
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Old 01-27-2005, 11:23 PM   #12054
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i dont experiment unless ive tested it first, so no, no red stuff for me... its hard enough getting my pit man (jose) to bring my car so i can make my heat, didnt want to worry about my diffs.

ive been doing alot of testing on the diff and im wishing they made some out of metal.

and also i would like to get some masami universals...

when easton speaks i would listen, i do...
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Old 01-28-2005, 02:23 AM   #12055
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oh, i'm not even talking about testing in a car, in your hand, spin spin spin, and your right, jose has been slacking off on his pit-B duties, have you talked to him lately, hes becoming quite the off roader. new BJ4 and everything.

jaybee check your PM's
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Old 01-28-2005, 06:49 AM   #12056
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Default Links & Ball Ends???

The links in the attached photo, look like the links & ball ends that I remember from my old Yokomo YR-4M cars. Are these links & ball ends making a come back? Is there an advantage to using these? Are they still available? If so, where?
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Old 01-28-2005, 06:51 AM   #12057
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Sorry. The first photo was rather small. Here's a larger version.
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Old 01-28-2005, 07:25 AM   #12058
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dubro makes them.
Hope this helps,
Stephen <><
Also I believe that person was using them only on there steering as to help releave SLOP.....
Just my observation.
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Old 01-28-2005, 07:55 AM   #12059
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They're not dubro's, they're the links from the sway bar assembly. They fit tighter on the ball studs and since they're an open design they work really nice with the Ti ball studs that have the hex in the middle. I believe the SDW kit includes all the ball cups like this design.
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Old 01-28-2005, 08:06 AM   #12060
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hey Matt,
Thanks again for all your help last couple weeks has made a difference. Oh the ball cups, You got a part number?
Thanks,
Stephen <><
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