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Old 01-26-2005, 03:15 AM   #12016
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Default Re: Jaybee

Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
Are the drive shafts and the cvd's included inthe unsprung weight, even if its rotating?
I think anything between the shock-tower-end of the shock body and hingepin of the arm can be considered as unsprung weight.

is this correct? or should that be anything between the lower shock end and the arm hingepin



and I was thinking that chassis balancing should only be done with the sprung weight because these are the only one involved in weight transfer. This idea has already been shot down in one of the "How to balance chassis weight" threads in the past.

I'd like to hear the opinions of the people in this thread please.

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Old 01-26-2005, 05:40 AM   #12017
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Hi and Hello

Question to the masses:

I just finished building my MR-4TC SD SSG and notice that the lower suspension arms (front and rear) appear high off the chassis.

Currently my shocks are set at 60 mm length with short ends, per instructions.

Is this normal? Almost impossible to adjust droop this way.

Thanks!
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Old 01-26-2005, 05:46 AM   #12018
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The shocks need to be at least 62 or 63 mm long, i don't really remember exact.
I ran short ends in front and 63 mm and then long ends and about 64 mm in rear.
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Old 01-26-2005, 05:56 AM   #12019
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The instructions uses the upper holes on the front suspension C-hubs, while most people use the lower holes. 60-61mm is long enough if you use the upper holes, 62-63mm if you choose the lower holes. For the rear 60-61mm is fine if you run the original shock tower. If you use Rayspeed tower (old style), then you need 64-65mm long.
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Old 01-26-2005, 06:17 AM   #12020
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A big thanks goes out to Sparx and caveman for the quick turn around on my post.

I'll look at the car when I get off work and make some changes.

Thanks again for the help!

VRF201 (Roy)
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Old 01-26-2005, 07:47 AM   #12021
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Hi,

Ive CGM since last week. Great car. I will see this weekend how it performs in race.
But Ive a question. Does anybody knows the products of SpeedRacing and NIKIs? rcmart.com carries them. They look good and the price is awesome. Are they good or sould I spend a few more dollars and buy the products from Rayspeed, Yokomo and Team Suzuki?
And does anyone can tell me the order number of this item?
http://www.ultratechcleaning.com/yok.../rs-27_450.jpg

Thanks
Chris
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Old 01-26-2005, 08:07 AM   #12022
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedy-932
Hi,

I�ve CGM since last week. Great car. I will see this weekend how it performs in race.
But I�ve a question. Does anybody knows the products of SpeedRacing and NIKI�s? rcmart.com carries them. They look good and the price is awesome. Are they good or sould I spend a few more dollars and buy the products from Rayspeed, Yokomo and Team Suzuki?
And does anyone can tell me the order number of this item?
http://www.ultratechcleaning.com/yok.../rs-27_450.jpg

Thanks
Chris
I have a lot of NIki's stuff.
They are nice, but the motor mount requires some dremeling b4 it fits perfectly.
The rest of the stuff are great. Input shafts, center shaft.

I've seen the Speedracing steering knuckles, they appear too thin and looks likely to bend in a crash. Anyway, the graphite knuckles are better.

The rayspeed hub you attached are not for the CGM.(I think)
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Old 01-26-2005, 08:30 AM   #12023
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Thanks for the answer. Sounds great. But what has to be dremeled? What does not fit?
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Old 01-26-2005, 08:40 AM   #12024
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someone just asked me this question, i have taken pics !!
It's just a tiny bit of work, I no longer have the original shape to show b4 and after
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Old 01-26-2005, 08:47 AM   #12025
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anybody interested I have a set of ss bodies (nip) in the for sale forum.
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Old 01-26-2005, 09:14 AM   #12026
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Quote:
Originally posted by Midnight
Once again thanks Matt for your word of advice!!

I would also like to thank daniz24, my rear diff was real gritty, I havent rebuilt them in about 6 to 7 months. So I guess it is about time!!
No prob as you know, ball diff is one of the most important thing to take care on all EP cars....
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Old 01-26-2005, 02:16 PM   #12027
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Quote:
And does anyone can tell me the order number of this item?
thats a b4 rear hub(pn#rs27/rs28),rs28 has .5 toe in, it wount fit yok axles..

my 2cents on aluminum,i use it to de-tuning a twitchy car. example; running aluminum c-hubs and spindles will slow a over responsive front end. just like running your shocks upside down...

as anything, driving style plays a big part...

i also like to run my front diff tight; to the point of snaping the diff screw / rear diff about 2/3 to 1/2 the tightness of the front.
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Old 01-27-2005, 01:05 AM   #12028
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Default Diff tightness

What's the theory behind diff tightness. What difference does it make running the front tighter than the rear for example ?
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Old 01-27-2005, 01:41 AM   #12029
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You'll get a bit more onpower steering with a tight front diff but you'll lose a bit of offpower steering. In my experiences a tight rear diff never feels good on the track. Instead of tightening your front diff down try building your front diff with the yokomo diff grease for their nitro car diffs. It's a really thick silicone paste, I build my foam/carpet front diff with it instead of regular diff lube so I don't break a diff screw, it works really well in slowing down and thickening the diff action. The part # is CS-DGH, the retail price is only $4.50 for a tub of it.
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Old 01-27-2005, 01:47 AM   #12030
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Quote:
Originally posted by lee82gx
someone just asked me this question, i have taken pics !!
It's just a tiny bit of work, I no longer have the original shape to show b4 and after
I had to do that as well when I shortened the screw, except i didn't take that much off
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