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Old 01-25-2005, 02:01 PM   #12001
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anybody running the alum. rear hub carriers?

- JB
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Old 01-25-2005, 04:03 PM   #12002
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Quote:
Originally posted by racer
btw, which car are you running? SD or the SDW?

and which position are your front "C" hubs mounted to the front amrs? upper or lower position?

Thanks again
That's with my CGM with the old style RS towers. I've got the hingepin for the castor blocks in the lower hole
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Old 01-25-2005, 04:06 PM   #12003
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Default Re: ride height

Quote:
Originally posted by bigragu
hey matt,
here a question for u on the front of my car using like 58mm
cut foam tires i have to crank all the way down on the shock collars to make ride height is this a comman thing or am i over looking something.i just cant seem to figure out why i got to crank all the way down on shock collars to make ride height or should i use the rear shock tower on the front will this correct the problem

thanks buddy

p.s if inyone else has run into this i would love the input
You can run the rear tower on the front, the lower row of holes on the rear tower will help you with your problem. You can also try using the long shock ends if you're not already.
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Old 01-25-2005, 04:09 PM   #12004
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Quote:
Originally posted by Midnight
Hey Matt, do you know what piston is compareable to the rayspeed 1.1, and what is the diff between running the front hub carrier in the top or bottom hole. Thanks in advance and also thanks to everyone who spoke their advice.
the 1.1's are pretty much the same as the yok #2's but they don't wobble around in the shock body like the stock yok pistons do. That play between the piston and the shock body always bothered me but the RS pistons fit perfectly in them.
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Old 01-25-2005, 04:11 PM   #12005
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Quote:
Originally posted by JayBee
anybody running the alum. rear hub carriers?

- JB
I haven't seen anyone running those. It's just adding unsprung weight to your rear suspension.
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Old 01-25-2005, 05:48 PM   #12006
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I just wanted to say thanks for the help about the pistons! That should get me going in the right direction. What would I have to do to switch to rayspeed springs?

Also is their anyone who knows what is the difference between running the lower hole or upper hole on the front and rear hub carrier!
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Old 01-25-2005, 07:53 PM   #12007
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Default Jaybee

Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
I haven't seen anyone running those. It's just adding unsprung weight to your rear suspension.
I am!!! But after reading Matt's Reply I might take it out !! Will still run it at our Big Race on Sunday!
Matt Howard?
Are the drive shafts and the cvd's included inthe unsprung weight, even if its rotating?

Last edited by lem2; 01-25-2005 at 08:27 PM.
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Old 01-25-2005, 11:24 PM   #12008
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Quote:
Originally posted by Midnight
I just wanted to say thanks for the help about the pistons! That should get me going in the right direction. What would I have to do to switch to rayspeed springs?

Also is their anyone who knows what is the difference between running the lower hole or upper hole on the front and rear hub carrier!
You need the RS spring cups or the other way is using AE spring cups and a AE ball end for the shock end. Using the upper hingepin hole in the castor block will lower your front rollcenter. I've never really liked this setup but you might.
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Old 01-25-2005, 11:27 PM   #12009
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Default Re: Jaybee

Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
I am!!! But after reading Matt's Reply I might take it out !! Will still run it at our Big Race on Sunday!
Matt Howard?
Are the drive shafts and the cvd's included inthe unsprung weight, even if its rotating?
I think so. I've been taught that anthing on the suspension is unsprung weight so I guess cvd's would be included in that statement.
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Old 01-25-2005, 11:32 PM   #12010
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Once again thanks Matt for your word of advice!!

I would also like to thank daniz24, my rear diff was real gritty, I havent rebuilt them in about 6 to 7 months. So I guess it is about time!!
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Old 01-26-2005, 01:32 AM   #12011
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Default Man droop can be annoy to get the hang of....

depending how you check it.

Ok this time I tried the method as pictured at the back of the manual. That being with the wheels off and the chassis on a flat surface measure the gap/space that is indicated.

Going by that method with a completely kit rear end set up I have 5mm. But on the front which I thought was only 1mm more at six is in fact 7mm.

Is the 2mm difference too much and should I aim for the 6/5 f/r figure which seems to be quite common from setup sheets I have seen?
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Old 01-26-2005, 01:34 AM   #12012
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Default Thank You!!

Sombody should open up an "Ask Matt Howard Thread!!!"
Our queries are almost answered the same day!! To think he is in the service and in Korea! How busy can you get!! Hope you keep this up no mater how stupendous my questions are.

Just want to say that when I used te TAMIYA TRF Shocks there is no problem with the shock length or achieving a less than 5mm ride height. I am using the short Yoke Shock Ends with RS Spring retainer. FYI

Last edited by lem2; 01-26-2005 at 01:41 AM.
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Old 01-26-2005, 01:49 AM   #12013
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Default Re: Thank You!!

Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
Sombody should open up an "Ask Matt Howard Thread!!!"
Our queries are almost answered the same day!! To think he is in the service and in Korea! How busy can you get!! Hope you keep this up no mater how stupendous my questions are.
I agree... thanx Matt for all the help, it's greatly appreciated
Was that just a suck-up ...

- JB
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Old 01-26-2005, 02:00 AM   #12014
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Default Re: Man droop can be annoy to get the hang of....

Quote:
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
depending how you check it.

Ok this time I tried the method as pictured at the back of the manual. That being with the wheels off and the chassis on a flat surface measure the gap/space that is indicated.

Going by that method with a completely kit rear end set up I have 5mm. But on the front which I thought was only 1mm more at six is in fact 7mm.

Is the 2mm difference too much and should I aim for the 6/5 f/r figure which seems to be quite common from setup sheets I have seen?
After a bit of checking I found that to get 6mm instead of 7 I could either lenghthen the shock by 1mm and keep current mounting holes.

Or move the current length into the inner most hole (on the arm) or one hole lower on the tower (currently outer most hole on standard shock tower) to get the same droop amount but that's a suspension geometry change I have no idea what it would do? Which option you think?

As for the ask Matt thread idea why don't we just get the thread starter to change the title of this one.

Last edited by Mabuchi540; 01-26-2005 at 02:16 AM.
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Old 01-26-2005, 02:47 AM   #12015
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Quote:
Originally posted by Midnight
I just wanted to say thanks for the help about the pistons! That should get me going in the right direction. What would I have to do to switch to rayspeed springs?

Also is their anyone who knows what is the difference between running the lower hole or upper hole on the front and rear hub carrier!
I would advise you to get the HPI Pro4 spring cups. 2 packets of them, they would come with both the spring cups AND the shock shaft ends(which are like the Yokomo's but smaller in diameter)
Getting the AE cups are also good, but they dont come with the shock ends, you'll have to get them separately.
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