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Old 01-24-2005, 11:22 AM   #11971
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Default droop

i found that droop height on the front dictates how the rear end will track.

droop height less than 6mm, tends to over power the rearend and cause the car to spin out (over-responsive frontend)/ especialy on transition corners & low bite tracks

7+ amouth of droop tends to make the rearend planted, caused the car to push some what.

* i run 8mm of droop height and stand up the shock / longer camber links. car is responsive and rearend tracks with no-fishtail...

think of it as a bell curve, to little = no good , moderate = good, to much = no good...
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Old 01-24-2005, 11:25 AM   #11972
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http://home.tiscali.be/be067749/58/
-touring car setup guide(on l-side frame)
-interactive version(top right)
-hover cursor over the setup sheet and a pop-up explanes(cool)

this is a great site that gives the basics on what geom changes do. its based on the tc3 which is great because that car had few geom options and you could feel every change.
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Old 01-24-2005, 02:12 PM   #11973
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Can anyone point me in the right direction to get the front to be more responsive and turn in faster. I think i 1 way would help but i dont have one yet, the track is very tight and small.
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Old 01-24-2005, 03:16 PM   #11974
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Have you tried the inline steering blocks? That should help out a bit
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Old 01-24-2005, 03:40 PM   #11975
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Ill try them, thanks i forgot i had them in my box!
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Old 01-24-2005, 04:54 PM   #11976
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I'm getting alot of steering from those

- JB
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Old 01-24-2005, 05:47 PM   #11977
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Thanks iamramos and rovic, but that helps but it doesnt answer my question fully!

Can anyone tell me which yokomo piston would be the same as the rayspeed 1.1 piston? Also, what the diff between a long rear camber link and a short rear camber link, and if you shorten it on the hubs or on the shock tower? Lastly, what if you mount the ball stud on the upper hole or lower hole on the shock tower?
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Old 01-24-2005, 07:05 PM   #11978
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question for Matt Howard,

you mentioned you have trimmed the triangler peice inside the shock. to get more droop etc...

what is the total length do you have the shocks set at?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-24-2005, 07:12 PM   #11979
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Quote:
Originally posted by Midnight
Can anyone tell me which yokomo piston would be the same as the rayspeed 1.1 piston? Also, what the diff between a long rear camber link and a short rear camber link, and if you shorten it on the hubs or on the shock tower? Lastly, what if you mount the ball stud on the upper hole or lower hole on the shock tower? The reason Im asking all these questions is b/c the rear end of my car wants to slide out, and I changed the droop, ride height, oil, and just about anything you can think of per another guys info, but I have no idea what these things do. So if someone could give me an idea what they do I can try and figure it out my self. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Try using the R+3 rear arm holders and white RS Springs all around.
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Old 01-24-2005, 07:25 PM   #11980
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Quote:
Originally posted by Midnight
The reason Im asking all these questions is b/c the rear end of my car wants to slide out, and I changed the droop, ride height, oil, and just about anything you can think of per another guys info, but I have no idea what these things do.
Do you already try to rebuild your rear diff?
Sometimes a bind suspension arm can also cause this.
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Old 01-24-2005, 09:05 PM   #11981
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Quote:
Originally posted by Midnight
Thanks iamramos and rovic, but that helps but it doesnt answer my question fully!

Can anyone tell me which yokomo piston would be the same as the rayspeed 1.1 piston? Also, what the diff between a long rear camber link and a short rear camber link, and if you shorten it on the hubs or on the shock tower? Lastly, what if you mount the ball stud on the upper hole or lower hole on the shock tower?
about pistons...duno, but as tiscali states...shorter camberlinks make the car square up faster though the turns. longer give more roll thru the turns(opposite). mounting link on the tower lower, is just like a shorter link but more drastic. and visa/v for longer links. that should help w/ Q2 and 4. For Q3 of 4, i'm assuming you mean shifting the links inward and outward. (anyone correct me if i'm wrong cuz I have not tested this much, but)shifting outward allows the car to rotate more i.e. less traction. back to the links, more roll is needed for slippery/dusty/oily tracks and the opposite is true for high bite/carpet tracks
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Old 01-24-2005, 09:33 PM   #11982
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for the most part, (iamramos) thoery is correct; i have yet to test all the shock holes and camber positions...

longer camber links = stability and smooth=holding line
shorter = aggressive and can be lose (helps initial turn in, but sacrafice mid/exit cornering=push.

my advice; use droop and shock position to find drivable car. then use camber links and oil/pistion to fine tune your set-up...

i use springs (front) to ensure the car doesnt bottom out in the corner, going to soft will cause push and to firm will push.(rear) springs usually the same as the front; +/- spring rate for more steering or rear grip...

hope that helps,
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Old 01-25-2005, 12:10 AM   #11983
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Quote:
Originally posted by racer
question for Matt Howard,

you mentioned you have trimmed the triangler peice inside the shock. to get more droop etc...

what is the total length do you have the shocks set at?

Thanks in advance!
My front shocks are 62mm long using the short ends, my rear shocks are 67mm long with the long ends. Thats the total length with them being off the car.
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Old 01-25-2005, 01:40 AM   #11984
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Arrow Question...

hey Matt, when you press down on the front and rear shock towers so your car stays planted, how much 'movement' should your spur gear have? Probably a silly question, but I'm going throughout the car trying to find out where all the slop is to eliminate it...

- JB
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Old 01-25-2005, 01:47 AM   #11985
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Hi Matt, just wondering if when using shock length for setting droop assuming the same mounting positions are used (or does that even matter) does equal length f/r = equal droop?
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