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Old 01-23-2005, 08:21 PM   #11956
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Thanks anyways.. later.
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Old 01-23-2005, 09:48 PM   #11957
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Default Re: THANX...

Quote:
Originally posted by JayBee
Matt and ritchie for the input on the inline steering blocks, I actually like the amount of steering it gives. I also changed the kingpin/ spacer position also to what was suggested, but still not clear on how this changes the front-end set-up .
Anyhow, my problem is now that I can't seem to get the amount of droop I'm after in the rear. I'm using the original RS shock tower with the 'long' shocks along w/ the Yoke 'short' ends. Maybe I should try shaving the end off the triangular piece within the shocks huh...

- JB
just try unscrewing the shock ends a couple of turns.

the spacer deal, is hard for me to explain but it all has to do with, angles and math and roller center and blah blah blah, lol all i know is i have never tried it on the cgm but love the steering of the worlds so i will do it to the cgm.
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:00 PM   #11958
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Quote:
Originally posted by vi3tishduy
Hey guys, i am highly considering the Yoko Mr4-TC but, is it too old? Also any new hints on an upcoming yoko car? Anyway, my questions are, whats the major difference between the CGM and the SSG or the carbon fiber chassis? The CGM tub chassis said it had new steering system or something like that, also, how durable is the car? I'm thinking of buying one off this forumn but i need 325 first. Anyway, thanks! if you want, just pm me with comments thanks..
sorry, missed this one, as far as i know there won't be any new cars coming out anytime soon. yokomo released the worlds car last month but it was a limited edition and i believe they are all sold. but of course i guess they could make a few changes and release it as a kit. the main diff between the ssg and cgm is as you stated, tub vs plate and steering rack, shock towers are different also, i can't tell you which is better cause everyone likes different stuff, but i like the cgm better. i went and looked at the stuff for sale, it looks like the guy had a ssg "silver car", and bought a cgm conversion kit, and also a black chassis. but think about this, how much is a brand new cgm, and do you really need or want the black chassis.
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:41 PM   #11959
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Quote:
Originally posted by agower
does anybody know where the micro cooling fan and the mount actualky go on the cgm, it says you will have to drill a hole for the stand on the ssg and black special but nothing about the cgm, so i asume the must be a hole somewhere for it to go into?

and what is the hole for the motor mount underneath the chassis for on the very outside as it says to not put a screw in it? its not for the fan mount as it doesnt go all the way through.

many thanks
A Gower
The fan holder is made for the flat graphite chassis. You need to drill and counter sink a hole in that chassis.

On the CGM you can just place the fan up in front of the motor, I use shoe goo and it works very well. I also added a seperate switch and wired it directly to the wires at the speedo from the battery. The fan can be turned on anytime there is a battery hooked up to the speed control. When the speedo is turned off after a race the fan continues to run and cool down the motor.
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:42 PM   #11960
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rob Phillips
Hey Matt, what rollout would you recomend for a monster stock. I compared my gearing with a buddy's tc3 and I was way off. My car lacked top speed and punch but my driving has kept me in it. Now I just need to get the car to do as well.
I've never raced stock foam so I can't help you, sorry. I'd say gear it like your buddies TC3 and see what happens
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:43 PM   #11961
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Default Re: THANX...

Quote:
Originally posted by JayBee
Matt and ritchie for the input on the inline steering blocks, I actually like the amount of steering it gives. I also changed the kingpin/ spacer position also to what was suggested, but still not clear on how this changes the front-end set-up .
Anyhow, my problem is now that I can't seem to get the amount of droop I'm after in the rear. I'm using the original RS shock tower with the 'long' shocks along w/ the Yoke 'short' ends. Maybe I should try shaving the end off the triangular piece within the shocks huh...

- JB
You can also put a ball stud on the arm and use a ball cup on the end of the shock shaft.
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:44 PM   #11962
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Default Re: THANX...

Quote:
Originally posted by JayBee
Matt and ritchie for the input on the inline steering blocks, I actually like the amount of steering it gives. I also changed the kingpin/ spacer position also to what was suggested, but still not clear on how this changes the front-end set-up .
Anyhow, my problem is now that I can't seem to get the amount of droop I'm after in the rear. I'm using the original RS shock tower with the 'long' shocks along w/ the Yoke 'short' ends. Maybe I should try shaving the end off the triangular piece within the shocks huh...

- JB
shave away my friend
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Old 01-24-2005, 01:27 AM   #11963
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Thanx guys... but as far droop goes, the more droop in the rear of the car, the car is going to pitch forward alot more under braking and cornering thus producing a loose rear-end right?

- JB
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Old 01-24-2005, 01:34 AM   #11964
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yeah, if you run too much rear droop you'll have alot of weight transfer to the front under braking. Too little droop and your rear end will feel "skatey". Always have to find that happy medium
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Old 01-24-2005, 01:40 AM   #11965
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Default Off hand without having to do it to find out.....

on SSG/CGM suspension geometry IF the shocks are the same length front and back will the droop be the same front and back?

Assuming you don't change any shock mounting positions that is.

Last edited by Mabuchi540; 01-24-2005 at 01:46 AM.
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Old 01-24-2005, 01:40 AM   #11966
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So shock & spring-wise, with a higher rear vs. front droop situation, do you want a stiffer front-end and softer rear-end? That way the front-end doesn't pitch too much...

- JB
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Old 01-24-2005, 07:03 AM   #11967
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you can put a solid wire in the front on the car in place of the shocks, and solid wire in the rear of the car in place of shocks, when you hit the brakes weight is transfered forward. same for on power steering, when you hit the gas the weight goes to the rear of the car. shock piston size, weight of shock oil, and droop control how much and how fast.
the easiest way to do it, is just at the track, run a couple of laps to get a starting feel for the car, then turn the droop screws a turn or two and see what it does.

besides that, why are you hitting the brakes, it only slows you down.
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Old 01-24-2005, 07:08 AM   #11968
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Matt what about rollout (or sp/ pin w/approx tire size) with a 12 single Orion V2 Hara. I was running 100/27 with extremely small tires. Have you ran on of these motor yet? Man this thing is sweet!
After running the pack until it dumped, It was much cooler that my stock motors. The motor was bone stock, just out of the box.
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Old 01-24-2005, 07:15 AM   #11969
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
yeah, if you run too much rear droop you'll have alot of weight transfer to the front under braking. Too little droop and your rear end will feel "skatey". Always have to find that happy medium
Hi Matt, I was checking your setup and notice that you always positioned the front camber link at the same spot. How's the difference with the stock position?
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Old 01-24-2005, 09:33 AM   #11970
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Can anyone tell me which yokomo piston would be the same as the rayspeed 1.1 piston? Also, what the diff between a long rear camber link and a short rear camber link, and if you shorten it on the hubs or on the shock tower? Lastly, what if you mount the ball stud on the upper hole or lower hole on the shock tower? The reason Im asking all these questions is b/c the rear end of my car wants to slide out, and I changed the droop, ride height, oil, and just about anything you can think of per another guys info, but I have no idea what these things do. So if someone could give me an idea what they do I can try and figure it out my self. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
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