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Old 12-08-2004, 05:19 AM   #11056
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Originally posted by JayBee
does anyone know what degree of caster the front hub carrier has on the stock SD? just looking through my parts and realized i have some 4 degree graphite ones. also, just got the RS new geo. frt. shock tower and on the package it says (FOR SSS-SIZE), does this mean i can't use the longer SS shocks? and the tower comes with hex nuts & rubber grommets, what are the grommets for?
something i thought was a bit weird is why does Yokomo package the frt. steering block w/ the rear hub carrier instead of with the frt. hub carrier (#SD-4134G)?

- jaybee
The only castor block out right now is the 4 deg one no matter if it's graphite or plastic or whatever. You might be able to use the SS shocks with the new lowered RS towers, I haven't tried so I'm not positive on that. Most of the setups now are using O rings as bump stops on the shockshafts to limit uptravel, with the longer bodies it will probably do the same thing. I haven't figured out why they included the O rings either, maybe to use as bumpstops on the shockshafts?. I have no idea why they package stuff they way they do, some of it makes sence and some doesn't
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Old 12-08-2004, 05:37 AM   #11057
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Since the discussion seems to be centered on the suspension right now, maybe some of you could share your secret for threading the king pins in straight to prevent binding in the steering. I've tried using the king pins that use the colar, but with only limited success.

Believe it or not, installing the king pins is always a major source of frustration for me.
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Old 12-08-2004, 05:49 AM   #11058
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I don't know what to tell you, I haven't had any problems with the kingpins binding the steering with either the stock kingpins or the coller/screw ones.
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Old 12-08-2004, 05:57 AM   #11059
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Is it possible to have the car PERFECTLY flat, parallel to the ground with perfectly EQUAL left-right tweak or downtravel?
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Old 12-08-2004, 06:05 AM   #11060
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Quote:
Originally posted by Geppetto
Since the discussion seems to be centered on the suspension right now, maybe some of you could share your secret for threading the king pins in straight to prevent binding in the steering. I've tried using the king pins that use the colar, but with only limited success.

Believe it or not, installing the king pins is always a major source of frustration for me.
i think what you need to do is to remove the C-hub and do it nicely. If you try to install the knuckle with the C-hub still attached to the arms, it's going to be a mojor pain.
if they are not straight, have you forgotten the shims?
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Old 12-08-2004, 07:25 AM   #11061
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Anyone got any news on a reliese date for the MR4 SDW yet? Rick
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Old 12-08-2004, 08:37 AM   #11062
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rick Draper
Anyone got any news on a reliese date for the MR4 SDW yet? Rick
I already emailed yokomo usa today and hopefully will get an anwer today as well.
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Old 12-08-2004, 09:16 AM   #11063
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Quote:
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I already emailed yokomo usa today and hopefully will get an anwer today as well.
Did they release it in Japan yet?
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Old 12-08-2004, 09:26 AM   #11064
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Quote:
Originally posted by Geppetto
Since the discussion seems to be centered on the suspension right now, maybe some of you could share your secret for threading the king pins in straight to prevent binding in the steering. I've tried using the king pins that use the colar, but with only limited success.

Believe it or not, installing the king pins is always a major source of frustration for me.
It is easier to do with the new lightweight kingpins. I use them on the top only, (If the hub breaks, and it always breaks on the bottom, I don't want to go looking for expensive screws on the track).
Screw in about 3 to 5 treads on the top and then the same on the bottom. Then screw the top pin all the way, the sleeve on the top won't really let you screw in the pin any way but straight. Then finish the bottom screw, you should have no binding.
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Old 12-08-2004, 10:07 AM   #11065
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Yokomo USA should have the SDW's in sometime next week so they're probably out in japan right now or they will be soon.
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Old 12-08-2004, 10:19 AM   #11066
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Quote:
Originally posted by lee82gx
Is it possible to have the car PERFECTLY flat, parallel to the ground with perfectly EQUAL left-right tweak or downtravel?
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Old 12-08-2004, 10:35 AM   #11067
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maybe when the car is absolutely box stock new but after you run it things tend to "shift". It's just that plastic pieces will not stay exactly the same with wear so you might have one shock slightly longer than the other after running for awhile. Also, if you're involved in a big wreck you might want to loosen all the top deck screws, put the chassis on something perfectly flat and then tighten the screws back down to prevent chassis tweek.
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Old 12-08-2004, 12:23 PM   #11068
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it is possible, see if someone you know has a hudy set up station, it gets everything perfect and also provides a nice smooth flat surface to fix chassis tweak on
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Old 12-08-2004, 12:29 PM   #11069
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
I don't know what to tell you, I haven't had any problems with the kingpins binding the steering with either the stock kingpins or the coller/screw ones.
My problem is that I can't seem to get the kingpin to thread straight into the hub. As a result, the turning action binds.

I'll try some of the suggestions offered here.
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Old 12-08-2004, 12:31 PM   #11070
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put it as straight as possible. push down hard and screw in slowly. dont blame me if it stuffs up
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