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Old 11-28-2004, 09:38 PM   #10906
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Originally posted by SNAIL MAN
Matt:

Any advantages of using the RS springs over the std Yok springs with the SS shocks.
I know the RS are longer.
sometimes the quality control on the yokomo springs kinda sucks, you'll get a pair of springs and one of them is kinda deformed or a mm shorter than the other. The RS springs are alot better and I haven't had one that's been noticeably different than the other.
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Old 11-28-2004, 09:43 PM   #10907
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Quote:
Originally posted by JayBee
Thanx Matt, for right now I went back to the Yoke springs, but I switched to the AE shock ends w/ the balls too 'cause my Yoke shock ends were shot. Just curious though, with the RS spring cups, is it a nice fit with the std. Yoke shock ends? The other problem that I'm running into is that since both frt./rear shock towers are the same, some of my bodies (my alpha 156 especially) don't fit correctly; maybe that's why RS came out with the new geometry ones huh? However, Matt do you have any set-up tips for a smediumish-technical carpet track? In stock, nearly everyone is strictly running Take-offs 27's.
THANX

- JAYBEE
The RS spring cups are a perfect fit with the standard yok shock ends, that's what they were designed for. My rubber tire carpet setup were pretty much the same as my outdoor setups. I don't remember exactly what I ran but this should be close.

front- RS yellow springs, RS #2 pistons with 40wt oil, gold sway bar, arms spaced all the way back, with a oneway.

rear- RS white springs, RS #2 pistons with 35wt oil, silver sway bar, arms in middle for more off power steering, arms in rear for more on power steering.

I don't remember where I had the shocks mounted but it wasn't anything wacky, probably just in the middle on the towers, outside on the rear arms and second from outside on the front arms.
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Old 11-28-2004, 10:52 PM   #10908
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Thanx Matt but I know for sure I'm not going to be running a 1-way right now (since I've only been in less than 10 races), just the diff up front. Does this change anything?
Thanx again...

- jaybee
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Old 11-28-2004, 11:02 PM   #10909
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You won't have as much steering but the car will be easier to drive. Once you get used to it give the oneway a try, it's alot faster.
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Old 11-28-2004, 11:07 PM   #10910
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Hey Matt, just for clarification, when you say move the arms... are you saying to change the wheelbase?
Sorry...

- jaybee
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Old 11-28-2004, 11:14 PM   #10911
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
Forty6, I have spare bones. What part do you want me to measure? I was gonna toss the bones on my 415 with HPI Pro4 spindles and axles. I wasn't planning on using my Yokomo til next year for asphalt season. Right now it's all carpet. So I'm using my Evo IV and TC4. I would use the Yokomo. But their suspension mounts sit too high.
Tip to tip of the dogbones, just the dogbones. I would like to see if they are the same length or even close to the MIPs of the old belt car. Thanks.
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Old 11-29-2004, 12:16 AM   #10912
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RaySpeed MIP CVD tip to tip.. bone only... 47.84mm
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Old 11-29-2004, 12:30 AM   #10913
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MR4TC SP: Front Knuckle & C-Hub

Anyone has tried the SP 4deg. C-Hub & kunckle(curve type if you know what I meant) on the SD???
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Old 11-29-2004, 01:20 AM   #10914
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AGOWER.

Titanium Racing is a UK firm so you shouldn't have any problem getting their CVDs. Get them through CML. They are TIR's distributors in the UK.

Yes, these are the Mk 2 versions. They are much better than the Mk 1 in every respect. I recommend these but not the older type.

And you don't have to make any modifications. They fit straight on.

For USA users I believe Schumacher USA handle Titanium Racing products in the USA.


UNDERBODY.

I modified a Fastrax TC3 underbody for my CGM and it works OK. Very little modification needed. Again Fastrax are available in UK from CML.
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Old 11-29-2004, 01:43 AM   #10915
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
The RS spring cups are a perfect fit with the standard yok shock ends, that's what they were designed for. My rubber tire carpet setup were pretty much the same as my outdoor setups. I don't remember exactly what I ran but this should be close.

front- RS yellow springs, RS #2 pistons with 40wt oil, gold sway bar, arms spaced all the way back, with a oneway.

rear- RS white springs, RS #2 pistons with 35wt oil, silver sway bar, arms in middle for more off power steering, arms in rear for more on power steering.

I don't remember where I had the shocks mounted but it wasn't anything wacky, probably just in the middle on the towers, outside on the rear arms and second from outside on the front arms.
Matt: Does 'gold sway bar' mean the thickest one (1.6mm)? Thanks!


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Old 11-29-2004, 06:56 AM   #10916
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Quote:
Originally posted by JayBee
Hey Matt, just for clarification, when you say move the arms... are you saying to change the wheelbase?
Sorry...

- jaybee
yep, for me the car just seems to "work better" with both the front and rear arms spaced all the way back.
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Old 11-29-2004, 06:59 AM   #10917
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Quote:
Originally posted by fai
Matt: Does 'gold sway bar' mean the thickest one (1.6mm)? Thanks!


the bronze bar is the thickest one, it goes fron thinnest to thickest like this- black, silver, gold, bronze. I don't know the exact measurements of each one though.
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Old 11-29-2004, 07:12 AM   #10918
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
yep, for me the car just seems to "work better" with both the front and rear arms spaced all the way back.
thanx Matt, I'll try that
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Old 11-29-2004, 07:21 AM   #10919
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
RaySpeed MIP CVD tip to tip.. bone only... 47.84mm

Thank you!
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Old 11-29-2004, 10:24 AM   #10920
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Quote:
Originally posted by JayBee
I wish I've known that the RS springs work optimally with the longer SS shock bodies 'cause I was having ahelluva time last night setting my ride height & droop.

- jaybee
i had to use the long shock ends on the rear but the fronts were ok with the standard ends, i have a extra set (4) RS shock ends that i can loan you as well as extra shock ends. call me. i'm leaving thrusday morning so you have two days left. lol
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