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Old 11-08-2004, 09:27 PM   #10576
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Matt Howard or anyone..
Some questions on your CGM setups:
My current settings:
shock length 61mm
upper hole: outer most
Lower hole: 2nd inner
Spring : AE blue


How long are your (front) shocks?
I'm using AE spring retainers.
My shocks are 61mm, the total unloaded,free length from shock collar(on the top) screwed all the way up to the retainers is 39mm, whereas the spring is 25.4mm long, meaning it is not already preloaded when installed into the shocks.
But i can only get 5mm of minimum ride height? This is with the collar all the way to the top,leaving no room for left-right height balancing.

I'm assuming the since the springs are already not preloaded, i will get a minimum ride height of OVER 5mm with other stiffer springs of the same length, right? That would do no good.

So, is there something wrong with my setup/assembly of the shocks?

Thanks
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Old 11-08-2004, 09:51 PM   #10577
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You need to play with the lenghts... 61mm seems a little short... My shocks are arounf 62-65mm... depending on what springs and where I'm running them.... Basically... I adjust the length so that the arms will completely hang down as far as they can go.... Droop screws are for limiting down travel....
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Old 11-08-2004, 10:01 PM   #10578
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I'll try that...thanks
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Old 11-08-2004, 10:01 PM   #10579
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
No, it's not right. Just unscrew your shockends a couple of turns until the droop screws are actually doing something. The front should lift about 2-3mm and the rear 4-5mm before the tires lift up.

On the rear of the car I put on longer shock ends so now the overall length of the rear shocks is 64.5mm and indeed the car lifts a considerable amount more (more than the 1mm it did before) before the wheels lift off the ground.

Too much infact so I used the droop screws to limit the amount the car could lift before the wheels left the ground to around 4-5mm but when i did that the droop screws are in so far the shocks have no movment at all.

Shock holes and springs etc are all kit standard positions/springs.
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Old 11-08-2004, 10:19 PM   #10580
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are the parts that go inside the shock, seated all the way down, simple way to check this is to take shock end off, unscrew blue o-ring holder on bottom of shock, and see if the little black ring is even with the bottom of the hole that it fits in. (where shock rod comes out)

also did you reset ride height when you changed shock ends?
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Old 11-08-2004, 10:27 PM   #10581
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Quote:
Originally posted by vanguard
are the parts that go inside the shock, seated all the way down, simple way to check this is to take shock end off, unscrew blue o-ring holder on bottom of shock, and see if the little black ring is even with the bottom of the hole that it fits in. (where shock rod comes out)

also did you reset ride height when you changed shock ends?
Yeah the shocks a fine and yes I had to adjust the shock collars as well by reducing the gap between the collar and the point on the shock where the thread runs out from 4mm to 2mm.
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Old 11-09-2004, 01:24 AM   #10582
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Here's a tip for anyone with travel problems with their shocks that I did. In the shock body itself there's those two plastic pieces you push together that used to hold the foam thingy if you're using the non-bladder tops. Take the one piece that is the triangle and the little tube, use an xacto knife or something to cut the little tube off so you only have the triangle left. Now install only the cut triangle piece into the shock body for the shock shaft to use as a guide. You will now have an extra 4-5mm, at least, of shock travel. It's kinda hard to explain but when you take your shock apart hopefully it will be easier to understand.
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Old 11-09-2004, 05:46 AM   #10583
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Ok I think I have it sussed now.......

By altering the length of the front shocks by 1mm (to 61mm) and the rear by .5mm (to 60.5mm) and with kit springs/oil I now have a front ride height of 4.5 mm with the chassis being able to be lifted a further 3mm approx before the wheels lift and on the rear a ride height of 6mm and approx 4mm before the wheels lift off the ground.

The question is (and yes there is one ) is this right now because A: it feels a little mushy in the suspension (but hey what do I know it's my first on-road) and B: Shouldn't the back be the same level as the front?

Also once I got these settings I noticed the droop screws were'nt even touching the chassis even when I lifted the car off the ground so i removed them?
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Old 11-09-2004, 06:11 AM   #10584
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You can take them out if you want, but ideally you want the shocks to be alittle longer than you need so you can use the droop screws to adjust your droop if you need to. Can you lower your rear ride height? 4.5mm ride height in the front and 6mm in the rear will give you a bit more steering since the rear is higher than the front.
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Old 11-09-2004, 06:18 AM   #10585
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
You can take them out if you want, but ideally you want the shocks to be alittle longer than you need so you can use the droop screws to adjust your droop if you need to. Can you lower your rear ride height? 4.5mm ride height in the front and 6mm in the rear will give you a bit more steering since the rear is higher than the front.
Well I tried an upper set of holes thinking it would lower the rear which it did of course but to a ride height of like 3mm....

I've also tried un-doing the shock collars a bit...which does work but it just doesnt seem right to have the springs be able to slide up and down the shock body when the car is supported of the ground....

Longer springs to compensate perhaps or actually make the rear shocks shorter than the 60mm I started with to like 59mm?
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Old 11-09-2004, 06:28 AM   #10586
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
Well I tried an upper set of holes thinking it would lower the rear which it did of course but to a ride height of like 3mm....

I've also tried un-doing the shock collars a bit...which does work but it just doesnt seem right to have the springs be able to slide up and down the shock body when the car is supported of the ground....

Longer springs to compensate perhaps or actually make the rear shocks shorter than the 60mm I started with to like 59mm?
Don't worry about the springs moving on the shock body when it's supported, mine do as well. Try to make the shocks longer and USE THE DROOP SCREWS, LOL. I'm sorry, I don't know the lengths of my shocks and I honestly don't care. They're long enough for me to set the droop using the screws and I can adjust them up or down if I need to. You can use shock length to set your droop if you want, there's nothing wrong with that at all but the droop screws make it so much easier.
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Old 11-09-2004, 06:34 AM   #10587
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Talking I'm a .....

Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
Don't worry about the springs moving on the shock body when it's supported, mine do as well. Try to make the shocks longer and USE THE DROOP SCREWS, LOL. I'm sorry, I don't know the lengths of my shocks and I honestly don't care. They're long enough for me to set the droop using the screws and I can adjust them up or down if I need to. You can use shock length to set your droop if you want, there's nothing wrong with that at all but the droop screws make it so much easier.
.......

glutton for punishment I guess. :P It will have to do for now....I take it longer shafts are available?
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Old 11-09-2004, 06:39 AM   #10588
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
.......

glutton for punishment I guess. :P It will have to do for now....I take it longer shafts are available?
It sounds like you got everything straight now, you're just using the shock lengths to set droop, which is fine if that's the way you want to do it. I don't think there are longer shock shafts, people just unscrew their shock ends if they need them longer.
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Old 11-09-2004, 06:57 AM   #10589
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MATT.

I see where you're going with shortening the plastic bobbins.

You have to be careful not to take too much off the sleeve, for the reason those are there is to keep your shock shafts working in line with the shock body, especially when the shock is extended to it's maximum.

I tried running without them once and had to put them back because the shafts started to twist and the shocks leaked.

Another easy way of lenghtening shocks is to buy Tamiya or HPI shock shafts. They fit straight on and are a bit longer than the Yoke items. Everything else stays the same.
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Old 11-09-2004, 07:00 AM   #10590
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
MATT.

I see where you're going with shortening the plastic bobbins.

You have to be careful not to take too much off the sleeve, for the reason those are there is to keep your shock shafts working in line with the shock body, especially when the shock is extended to it's maximum.

I tried running without them once and had to put them back because the shafts started to twist and the shocks leaked.

Another easy way of lenghtening shocks is to buy Tamiya or HPI shock shafts. They fit straight on and are a bit longer than the Yoke items. Everything else stays the same.
True, you have to be carefull, but it was easy to do. With longer shafts you might run into problems of the piston hitting the bladder when the shock is fully compressed.
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