Horatio

It will be interesting to see how these compare to the Orion V2 modifieds.

Have you used MIP CVD's on the Yok SD Matt? I know you usually use the old MR4 UJ's - but those RS/MIP items look pretty good, just wondered if you knew how durable they are for 'average racers'.

Regards

Horatio

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

The old MIP CVD's for the yokomo cars would bind up the axle's when you tightened the wheel nut down, hopefully these have been reworked so that doesn't happen again. I personnaly will never trust an aluminum cvd in the front of my car but I always run them in the rear. There's just too much stress on them in the front for me to justify running them. I just hope those new motors use the two magnet setup, the quad magnet motors suck (batteries that is )

DENNIS STORTI

iTrader: (42)

hey matt couple questions wherer can i get the new stuff overseas i use to run with u at etown im in pa. but i ordered some stuff from presicion rc an was wondering when i can get the body fan an mount

im me on aol im if u can xcaptainpunchx is my sn

DENNIS STORTI

iTrader: (42)

i also have some setup issues im running with cuffs every week at my track an hes fast

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

The type E body is out right now, have your hobby shop order them from yokomo usa. The fan and mount will be out shortly, I don't think anyone has them yet.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I heard Cuff's got pretty fast after I left, maybe he learned something from me What kind of setup are you running and what surface? I did very little foam carpet racing so I might not be that big of help for you.

Mr. Shookie

iTrader: (9)

I run at my LHS and it is a tight turning parking lot type. No bells and whisels but it has the most important feature of all, families having fun....that is what a HOBBY is supost to be about. I will be venturing out of my local area in the near future to SoCal and when Hot Rods finish preporation of its on road track (supost to be in Januay) I will probably run there. I plan on going to KZ (or Sunvalley's as per there new name blablabla) I run there with my 1/8 scale Kanai 3....second favorite scale..I will bring my 1/10 next time I go out there. All set-up help would be appreciated.
Also I just installed the Product D gear ratio revision on my SSG and for what it does I would recommend it. It brought my Motor into touching the Drive shaft if I use anything smaller than a 48P 69T spur. I read all that people were saying about how the Product D item was not useful, I respectfully disagree with there assesment of that product. It changed my roll center and helped me get my car so close to a finishing set-up that I need maybe another day of tuning before it will be ready for a set-up sheet. I have had a problem with pushing before the Upgrade and it still pushes a little but a like I said one more day of tuning should have it solved. I look forward to your suggestions.
Thanks in advance
Stephen <><

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

I don't get it... how can bevel gears change anything about handling? The only thing I can think about is a different mesh which binds the transmission differently and creates a different built-in braking pattern... as for the rest, gear ratio is gear ratio to me... otherwise, I need somebody to explain, because I really don't get it...

Paul

Mr. Shookie

iTrader: (9)

Well here is how it works for ME. By changing the gear ratio, you can use smaller spur gears by which you can move the motor in towards the center line of the car, by which it make the roll center better, by which makes MY car handles better for ME. These assesments are what is working for me. I actually bought it, tried it, enjoy it and will keep it. I am a person who will only give advise or my opinion on things I have either seen or have tried myself. I am not bashing anyone, but tired of people always bashing things that they haven't tried themselves. I happen to like the Product D gears, not only does it help roll center but the gears are aluminum which last longer than the plastic ones. Also you will have to shim the diffs inward so as not to have a binding issue. Hope this helps you make a informed judgement.
Stephen<><

Horatio

Matt:

Cheers for the CVD/Motor info. Much appreciated.

vtl1180ny

You are actually making the motor work a tiny bit less to get the car moving... The TC3 is a 2.5 ratio.... Me personally I like the fact them my Yok is 2.3 and TC3 is 2.5, they are always around 2 teeth apart on the pinions which means I never have to buy any more than what I own...

caveman

Anyone remember yokomo had made aluminium endbell years ago, which was purple in colour. Looks just like the new one except colour. Reedy never used it( too expensive, I think) but Corally did use it, I had one long time ago.

caveman

when you talk about move the motor toward the center, you change the polar moment, not roll center. Roll center is determined by suspenion geometry. I like to use bigger spur gear, so I can move the motor to the outside, it helps to balance the weight left and right. GP cells are so heavy, even Sanyo are heavy.

Horatio

Ok - so you would like to keep the motor as close to the centre line of the car as is possible.

You will also want to do the same for the cells - fair enough.

When using GP3300's, the motor side of the car is the lighter side of the car - it's way too deep for me to want to go there for any length of time - but I gather that if you move the motor closer to the cells, you'll probably need to add extra weights to keep the chassis properly balanced (in theory).

Regards ratio with the 2.5 Product D - anyone with a TC3 will have already used that very same internal final drive ratio. ON the SD, I pretty much use the 48dp 70 tooth spur - I use ratios in the 1:7 range for 19t superstock indoors on rubber.

Using the stock internal ratio, that means I'm usually running 21/22/23 tooth pinions with the 70 tooth spur, depending on the track. On 2.5 ratio kit, that would mean I would need to use 23/24/25 tooth pinions - placing the motor further out.

So what Spurs do you run?

Horatio

Your post came in while I was writing mine - sorry if it appears to repeat what you just said.

Also thanks for pointing out that lateral balancing is actually to do with the polar moment of inertia - not roll centres.

As I understand it, roll centres are determined by the Angle of the camber links, the angle of the suspension arms at ride height and the lines that intersect with the contact patch of the tyres.

The lower the roll centre is from the CoG, the more the car will roll and therefore produce more grip - the higher the roll centre/closer it is to the CoG, the car will roll less and produce less grip.

Front and rear roll centres are not normally the same and the line that passes through both these theoretical points produce what is known as the roll axis.

If a car isn't laterally balanced, it will obviously effect the CoG but what about the the roll centres? Surely these theoretical points won't be central to the car - so presumably neither will the roll axis? Even if the suspension geometry is symetrical?