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Old 04-29-2003, 08:29 PM   #991
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how close are the batts to the drive shaft, closer then the TC3s ?
how about setting the tweak, is the tweak off on the car bad ?

thanks

you got Aol or Aim ?
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Old 04-29-2003, 08:36 PM   #992
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Alot closer than the TC3. And much narrower. I think the Evo3 is a tad narrower or the batteries closer to center than the SD. Tweak, not that bad for mine at least. No AIM right now. Forgot to reload it in the puter. Only use Yahoo right now. Same name...
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Old 04-29-2003, 08:37 PM   #993
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
Damn is that a brand new G10?! Sweet! haha. I have one but it was in my Evo3. It might fit in there. You may have to mount the receiver on it's side. You can gain more room if you feel lucky and mount the servo like I did. Even with a standard sized servo you may gain alittle more room this way. But don't tempt it if you aren't comfortable with drilling and counter sinking 2 new holes in your chassis.
Yep it is. I got it at my lhs hanging behind some old stock servos. I don't think I am brave enough to drill new holes on the chassis. Everytime I do it, I end up taking out a couple grams off the chassis due to the big holes I end up making . I will try your tip on mounting the receiver on its side. Thanks.
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Old 04-29-2003, 09:02 PM   #994
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Those of you that have built your cars, I have a problem that I need help with.

I'm almost done with the car, but I've noticed that theres a notchy spot in the drive train. Its something with the front diff case. It only happens when I put the front diff case on. I've checked the gears and theres no debree in either gear. But every time I put the front case on the notch in one spot is there.

So, what should I do? Remove one of the shims behind the gear connected to the shaft? I know Mo and Matt said to build it just like the instructions, but I'm sure the instructions didn't intend for there to be a notchy spot in the drive train.
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Old 04-29-2003, 09:18 PM   #995
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DARKSEID,

I know with the TC3 you had to play around with shimming the drivetrain to get the car free. Often times the diff cases fit too tightly. A little exacto and dremel action and that was solved. I would try different things or just leave it the way it is and run it in on your car stand. Put a motor in it and hook up a motor run. Might solve the problem and also break the gears in some.
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Old 04-29-2003, 09:21 PM   #996
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Make sure there isn't some flashing in the diff cases. Does it just happen when you tighten the screws down or as soon as you press the cover on? If there is nothing rubbing the gear, then I would remove 1 shim. Just make sure there is not too much slop in the gear mesh.
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Old 04-29-2003, 09:29 PM   #997
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Well, heres what I got right now. I've found that if I lightly tighten the front diff cover, instead of tightening it good, then the nothchy spot is gone. Its on securely though, so I'll stick with it as it is.

mo: I checked the gears very well. No flashing. So I'll chalk it up to needing to not overtighten the front diff cover.
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Old 04-29-2003, 11:37 PM   #998
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I had the same problem but after the first day of racing it was smoth as silk. It should fix its self.
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Old 04-30-2003, 01:21 AM   #999
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Default Rear Arms Binding

Hey guys, almost finished up assembly today and everything looks great except for some serious binding on the rear arms/inner hinge pin, anyone else had this problem? The stock setup calls for the 3 degree block and that one is really bad, if i try the 1 degree block the arms still dont drop under their own weight. Do i need to get a reamer or am i missing something?

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Old 04-30-2003, 01:21 AM   #1000
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

You guys make me so jealous - all discussing the building and i haven't as much as seen mine yet, and won't for another week.

YOKOMO MMS.

I have one of these and use it frequently. In fact I have just about ditched the dyno and just rely on this for setting up my motors these days. It gives me more reliable and consistant figures than the dyno ever did, and it's so much easier to set up.

I definately recommend it.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 04-30-2003, 05:48 AM   #1001
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SD Now officially in the UK-at last

The only place thats got them at the moment that I know of is dc racing.

Thanks
Andrew
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Old 04-30-2003, 10:28 AM   #1002
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Default HD blue aluminum dog bones from Tobee Craft

Tobee Craft just released HD blue aluminum dog bones for the SD. Part no. 42400 SD-04 price 800yen = $6.71USD.each.

Don't know if these will be available in the US...but I'm going to order some from Japan.



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Old 04-30-2003, 11:07 AM   #1003
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Those look pretty nice. I wonder how they'll hold up. At least they are cheap. Where are you ordering them from?
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Old 04-30-2003, 11:26 AM   #1004
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Quote:
Originally posted by mo
Those look pretty nice. I wonder how they'll hold up. At least they are cheap. Where are you ordering them from?

Looks like they will hold up better than the YOK version.

Don't know if it's in stock yet or not...I've put in a request for it with RainbowTen in Japan...

I've got some Rayspeed o-rings and Bladders coming..hopefully next week from them also... they don't have the pistons or shock springs yet..hopefully soon.
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Old 04-30-2003, 12:40 PM   #1005
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The word on the Rayspeed O-rings is "butter". I haven't run them yet but that is what I have been told by my sources..
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