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Old 10-10-2004, 01:32 PM   #10006
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
Get some of the universals from the old belt drive car. I don't know the part # off the top of my head but they're awsome. The wide front bumper will also help lessen front end parts breaking
what universals, i thought the mr4tc had the same drivehafts as the sd?
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Old 10-10-2004, 08:27 PM   #10007
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the belt drive car had some hardened universals available for it as an option. The front's will fit the SD with only minor modifications. Pops is at the regionals, when he gets back I'll have him post some pics of what they look like and what you have to do to them to make them work on the SD.
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Old 10-11-2004, 02:11 AM   #10008
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Mr Matt,

Need your advise on chamber linkage for my SSG.

What is the ideal position for front & rear. I'm currently running:
Front - med row / most inner (std - lowest row / most inner)
Rear - lowest row / most inner (std - lowest row / 2nd hole from inner)

What do you think about the std linkage position from the manual.

I'm racing on medium grid / tight track.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-11-2004, 02:24 AM   #10009
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Quote:
Originally posted by MARKANO
Mr Matt,

Need your advise on chamber linkage for my SSG.

What is the ideal position for front & rear. I'm currently running:
Front - med row / most inner (std - lowest row / most inner)
Rear - lowest row / most inner (std - lowest row / 2nd hole from inner)

What do you think about the std linkage position from the manual.

I'm racing on medium grid / tight track.

Thanks in advance.
Those are the positions I use 90% of the time, you should be fine running those on your track.
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Old 10-11-2004, 03:03 AM   #10010
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
Those are the positions I use 90% of the time, you should be fine running those on your track.
Anyone have a link on the Rayspeed 2 conversion kit?
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Old 10-11-2004, 03:06 AM   #10011
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someone scanned the page out of a magazine a couple pages back for the RS ver. 2
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Old 10-11-2004, 09:17 AM   #10012
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sparx
The downside of the CGM is the weight, seriously overweighted (if you want to be at the 1500 g limit, like me )
I probably have nearly all the light stuff, alu axles, ti screws, graphite shaft, rayspeed shock towers and more, it weighs in at about 1470 unleaded...
I prefer CGM on carpet with Sorex 28 because the SSG is just too flexy, CGM allows the suspension to work better.

But the car is great in kit form, can be quite sloppy tho in A-arms but a motor shim on the hingepins solves that problem.
Hi again, how much does the car weigh standard with electrics in etc and shell and tyres on 1520-1550g if more what option part do recon will make a massive difference in weight (machined alloy motor mount or machined chassis )

Chazz
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Old 10-11-2004, 09:30 AM   #10013
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Hey everyone, we are still moving out some MR4TC car parts. They are under our "Closeout" section or you can just click here.

We also put the Rayspeed items on sale as well, just click here.

Thanks!
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Old 10-11-2004, 10:08 AM   #10014
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Quote:
Originally posted by JayBee
Sparx-
I got that idea from a friend of mine, I didn't use the Yokomo ones though. I got the ones from MIP, and they're for the MR4TC.

MIP Shiny CVD Kit (MR4TC-front)- MIP1471
MIP Shiny CVD Kit (MR4TC-rear) - MIP1472

They're a direct fit and you CANNOT use the axles off of the SD. They're also hard as hell to find except if you order them straight from MIP. I have never broke CVD/axles on the car yet or for that matter ANY PART on my Yoke; and I remember 1 race where the car flipped rear over front 4 times!
If you can find those MIP parts, grab all that you can afford, just leave some for me

PEACE & FISH GREASE,

jaYBee
I had a set of these (MIPs) on the rear of the CGM car and found that if I slightly overtightened them they would bind the bearings. If you do use MiPs be carefull. The Yokomo hardened ones are better in my opinion.
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Old 10-11-2004, 10:16 AM   #10015
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We have only broken one hardened universal in about 3 years, have bent a few and worn out a few sets too. If you do bend them you can but them in a vise or anvil and use a small hammer to straighten them, and their almost like new again.
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Old 10-11-2004, 11:17 AM   #10016
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The weight is coming down, slowly but surely.

At the last race meeting Sunday week it weighed in at 1530 grams, including moulded inserts.

I think that's quite acceptable.
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Old 10-11-2004, 12:20 PM   #10017
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i may have missed it but does any one know a good foam setup for this car to be raced on grey ozite?
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Old 10-11-2004, 12:27 PM   #10018
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anyone have part no for bevel gear (to change internal ratio to 2.55)? thx
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Old 10-11-2004, 12:48 PM   #10019
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Kraig, I was sad to see you aren't going to carry Yokomo anymore, but I'm not going to complain about your closeout prices...

On another note... I FINALLY got to run the CGM chassis this past weekend and it's like night and day over the CGM... Running no sway bars, silver/gold springs and the car handles beautifully.... I may need to stiffen the car just slightly, nothing that moving the shocks outboard won't solve.... The track I run is extremely tight and I have no luck when running a real stiff setup...
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Old 10-11-2004, 12:58 PM   #10020
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chazz
Hi again, how much does the car weigh standard with electrics in etc and shell and tyres on 1520-1550g if more what option part do recon will make a massive difference in weight (machined alloy motor mount or machined chassis )

Chazz
I don't have either the alu motor mount or lightened chassis, i'm trying to get my hands on a motor mount though
The lightened chassis is only around 7-10 g's lighter and is mostly lightened on the electronics side which is too light in the original shape. So i did'nt get it.. Ti screws is definetly the greatest weight reducer.
If i don't remember wrong my stock CGM weighed around 1550-1560 depending on what inserts i used in tyres..
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