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Old 10-09-2004, 07:33 PM   #9991
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oops where usually i can get my hope ups for my SD and its cheap n easy???
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Old 10-09-2004, 07:36 PM   #9992
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Default Re: Slightly under weight.....

Quote:
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
Just weighed my CGM in it's ready to run state (finished the body painting etc etc) and it's slightly under weight, by 55 grams from the 1500 it's supposed to be.

Just wondering what would be best, put some weight down the center of the chassis (in the slots molded in the spine) so the handling remains consistant with the kit set up...OR....try and use the extra weight required to balance out the car left/right weight distribution?

Thanks in advance.
The GP3300's that we race with are very heavy, most of the time we have to put weight on the motor side to even the car out. Since you're running a 540 class with spec type batteries (not GP3300's) I would check to see if the car is balanced left to right before you placed any weight on the side. You never know, your car might be balanced right now.
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Old 10-09-2004, 07:37 PM   #9993
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Quote:
Originally posted by EngTat
oops where usually i can get my hope ups for my SD and its cheap n easy???
both www.speedworldraceway.com and www.speedtechrc.com are a couple of shops that carry Yokomo parts.
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Old 10-09-2004, 11:56 PM   #9994
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Quote:
Originally posted by EngTat
i am new to the sd, wat is the major upgrade i should do 1st? i would spare about usd 100 to 200 just to upgrade the car alone.
1 way, ti shock shaft is on the way so that would be my major upgrade. i need more advice before i continue that. thanks
if you're coming back to M'sia with the car anytime soon..
I'd suggest some alloy knuckles, wide bumper and plenty of arms and suspension mounting shafts.
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Old 10-10-2004, 01:59 AM   #9995
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is the parts of sd easy to get in malaysia lee82? or could u list me parts that i really need to get back.thanks.
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Old 10-10-2004, 09:10 AM   #9996
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Quote:
Originally posted by EngTat
is the parts of sd easy to get in malaysia lee82? or could u list me parts that i really need to get back.thanks.
in KL/ Klang Valley, yes. But prices are about 45% higher than the Yen prices....
In comparison, the online stores in US are selling at less than 20% higher, so i assume the LHS there would also be similar in prices.

As such i suggest getting all the spares you can afford...
These items are usually broken on 'Impact Velocity Losses'
1. Arms ( SD-008(G))
2. Knuckles(SD-415(G))
3. CVD bones(drive shafts) - SD-010FS
4. C - Hubs - SD-4134G
5. Suspension shafts- SD-009
6. King pins-SD414
others:
7. Wide bumper - SD-001W
8. Team Suzuki Knuckles
9. Tobee Driveshafts
10. Tobee input shafts
11. Bevel Gears -SD 503

I think that's about it for your budget lol

Most of these are covered in Steve's website(speedtechrc)
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Old 10-10-2004, 09:23 AM   #9997
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blakesrc
Mabuchi540,

I am planning on putting weight on the right side of the car next to the motor as far out as possible. There is deffinetly more weight on the battery side of the car so hopefully doing so will help balance out the cars weight distribution a bit more. Setting the tweek on the car will cure it but i have noticed that there is more pre load on my left rear shock than on the right rear.

Blake
I have my CGM weighted about 45 grams on the right side for a nearly dead-centered right to left balance according to my Integy scale.
--------------
Pratice day, I tried some more setups. Rollcenter positions and damperpositions and such and got the car pretty dialed. Parma Alfa body is great, not as twitchy as PF Alfa 2.0 and not as pushy as PF Stratus. A great in between
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Old 10-10-2004, 09:27 AM   #9998
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sparx
I have my CGM weighted about 45 grams on the right side for a nearly dead-centered right to left balance according to my Integy scale.
--------------
Pratice day, I tried some more setups. Rollcenter positions and damperpositions and such and got the car pretty dialed. Parma Alfa body is great, not as twitchy as PF Alfa 2.0 and not as pushy as PF Stratus. A great in between
Edit*
Do anyone know what i can do to not break my CVD axles? i do not even have to crash to break 'em, sometimes they break just when touching other racers in close fights
Last season it was the oneway gears that broke and now the cvd axles. I will probably try some Square Ti-axles and see how it holds up..
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Old 10-10-2004, 09:31 AM   #9999
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Get some of the universals from the old belt drive car. I don't know the part # off the top of my head but they're awsome. The wide front bumper will also help lessen front end parts breaking
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Old 10-10-2004, 10:00 AM   #10000
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sparx
Edit*
Do anyone know what i can do to not break my CVD axles? i do not even have to crash to break 'em, sometimes they break just when touching other racers in close fights
Last season it was the oneway gears that broke and now the cvd axles. I will probably try some Square Ti-axles and see how it holds up..
u see..... it's brokomo things.....

Ur cvd broke easily because one of the following reasons: (1) the cvd is damage ( not straight anymore ) so it spins like wobble, not in it's axis. (2) you need to add 1 0r 2 O rings to diff axle hub / cup to minimize cvd lateral movement, side to side movement. (3) the C upright carrier and steering spindle need to be replace. (4) diff axle hub / cup is damage, maybe it's time to replace especially the rear diff axle is made from plastic.
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Old 10-10-2004, 10:05 AM   #10001
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Woohoo !!! 10,000 replies..... I'm going to click it !!

Congratulation to yokomo mr4tc sd !!!
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Old 10-10-2004, 10:15 AM   #10002
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New axles. replaced 3 axles this day. 1 Alu and 2 steel. Only in front. But that's a thing with shaft and One-way i think, the shaft does not flex anything compared to a belt driven in which there are some flex in the belts and therefor breakage..
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Old 10-10-2004, 12:19 PM   #10003
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
Get some of the universals from the old belt drive car. I don't know the part # off the top of my head but they're awsome. The wide front bumper will also help lessen front end parts breaking
Sparx-
I got that idea from a friend of mine, I didn't use the Yokomo ones though. I got the ones from MIP, and they're for the MR4TC.

MIP Shiny CVD Kit (MR4TC-front)- MIP1471
MIP Shiny CVD Kit (MR4TC-rear) - MIP1472

They're a direct fit and you CANNOT use the axles off of the SD. They're also hard as hell to find except if you order them straight from MIP. I have never broke CVD/axles on the car yet or for that matter ANY PART on my Yoke; and I remember 1 race where the car flipped rear over front 4 times!
If you can find those MIP parts, grab all that you can afford, just leave some for me

PEACE & FISH GREASE,

jaYBee
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Old 10-10-2004, 12:30 PM   #10004
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Hi, i'm looking to buy a new car soon and i was wondering if there is any faults with the cgm and any parts which can make the car better overall

Chazz
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Old 10-10-2004, 01:22 PM   #10005
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The downside of the CGM is the weight, seriously overweighted (if you want to be at the 1500 g limit, like me )
I probably have nearly all the light stuff, alu axles, ti screws, graphite shaft, rayspeed shock towers and more, it weighs in at about 1470 unleaded...
I prefer CGM on carpet with Sorex 28 because the SSG is just too flexy, CGM allows the suspension to work better.

But the car is great in kit form, can be quite sloppy tho in A-arms but a motor shim on the hingepins solves that problem.
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