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Old 10-08-2004, 10:28 AM   #9976
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lonestar
yes it does... it prevents the body from flexing and rubbing on the front tires under heavy turning/breaking, it gives a tad more downforce on the front at high speeds, and best of all, it considerably lengthens you body's lifetime (no more front cracked fenders)... My paint jobs are average because I hate painting bodies... the less often the better!

Later
Paul
I can identify with you on this subject. I like to do fade paint jobs, but if the body gets hit and the paint chips off, it can be really difficult to 'touch it up'.

Interesting idea about that 5th body mount - it's just the thought about all those lost body clips that worries me......

CML distribution offer tuff stuff that Nitro racers brush paint onto their bodyshells to help protect the paint. I've heard it's very good. Custom Color also do a really good Nitro Block, that sprays on too.
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Old 10-08-2004, 10:36 AM   #9977
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lonestar
Stephen,

the 9550 is a great, bombproof product (actually it's WC in Surikarn's 414 I believe), and in the SD, when rotated, it really helps free up some space for the radio. As far as servo speed is concerned, some racers actually prefer slower ones... I know Jukka Steenari's tried some slower KO servos and he likes them better because it prevents understeer (the front tires don't slip because of too fast angle changes). I'm not Jukka and I like quicker servos better

btw... there finally are some pics of this last WE's race... last round of the Swiss Nationals... My Yoke took 2nd in the 17T class, it was on rails... The guy who took victory was an ex 12th scale national champion who did his come back in mid season after he quit for a few years... so I guess he was a worthy contender
Anyways, here are a couple of pics from a website that did a page on my car...







The car was absolutely perfect, stable but with a lot of steering. I used a funky front shock position, on a rear shock tower's body mount hole... front shock were near vertical and steering was *very* direct. The car was fantastic and gave a good run for their money to all the guys who sold their SD's when the Pro4 came out For those interested I can email a setup sheet (Orion's B-type rubber on carpet, 17T), it's too big to post here.

Later,
Paul
Hey what is the big orange thing hanging off the side of your car? I see the receiver and I see the ESC and at first I thought it was the transponder but that is at the front bumper. OH I also lije the fan in front of the motor. Have you thought about the REEDY heatsink and fan combo?
HOPE ALL IS WELL WHERE EVER EVERYONE IS AT.....
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Old 10-08-2004, 11:47 AM   #9978
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thanks Blakesrc, exactly what I was looking for

Jeff, I will be at Hutch this weekend. I have a few of Toso's setups as well but they state that he adjusted droop acording to tire size, and don't acctually give an exact amount. I was planning on 19t, but what ever the crowd want's to do, I guess I will follow.
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Old 10-08-2004, 04:32 PM   #9979
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i still have the yok sd black special partly build is that a worth upgrading to yok CGM chasis or should i just continue using the SD BS chasis? does the CGM have alot of diffrence as in handling etc...
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Old 10-08-2004, 06:53 PM   #9980
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Quote:
Originally posted by EngTat
i still have the yok sd black special partly build is that a worth upgrading to yok CGM chasis or should i just continue using the SD BS chasis? does the CGM have alot of diffrence as in handling etc...
You should be fine with you Black Special. What surface are you usually racing on? If it's foam carpet then I would only suggest getting another topdeck and doubleing them up to stiffen the car just a bit.
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Old 10-09-2004, 01:30 AM   #9981
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do u mean i get the same upper deck and add it??? thanks. i havent decided on wat kind of track i am racing.
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Old 10-09-2004, 02:06 AM   #9982
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yep, if your racing on carpet with foams get another upper deck and bolt both of them down, it will really stiffen the car. If you're racing on asphalt or something there is no need, we actually take the middle brace off when running outside to get alittle more flex into the car.
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Old 10-09-2004, 02:18 AM   #9983
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so do u glue the two upper decks together? or just bolt them down together?
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Old 10-09-2004, 02:23 AM   #9984
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no need to glue them, just screw 'em down. this way you can go back to one if you want to.
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Old 10-09-2004, 09:20 AM   #9985
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i am new to the sd, wat is the major upgrade i should do 1st? i would spare about usd 100 to 200 just to upgrade the car alone.
1 way, ti shock shaft is on the way so that would be my major upgrade. i need more advice before i continue that. thanks
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Old 10-09-2004, 09:35 AM   #9986
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Just get an assortment of springs and you're good to go. When you feel the need to replace or upgrade your bearings, Yokomo makes a set of ceramics that are really nice.
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Old 10-09-2004, 05:29 PM   #9987
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i dont think that i will need the bearing for the moment, other than the spring set, wat is ur opinion for other option parts??? thanks
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Old 10-09-2004, 05:46 PM   #9988
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Slightly under weight.....

Just weighed my CGM in it's ready to run state (finished the body painting etc etc) and it's slightly under weight, by 55 grams from the 1500 it's supposed to be.

Just wondering what would be best, put some weight down the center of the chassis (in the slots molded in the spine) so the handling remains consistant with the kit set up...OR....try and use the extra weight required to balance out the car left/right weight distribution?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-09-2004, 06:13 PM   #9989
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Quote:
Originally posted by EngTat
i am new to the sd, wat is the major upgrade i should do 1st? i would spare about usd 100 to 200 just to upgrade the car alone.
1 way, ti shock shaft is on the way so that would be my major upgrade. i need more advice before i continue that. thanks
Go get the graphite parts. You can use the standard one for practice or as a spare. Ti screws, alum universals and other lightweight stuff are always acceptable.
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Old 10-09-2004, 06:30 PM   #9990
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Mabuchi540,

I am planning on putting weight on the right side of the car next to the motor as far out as possible. There is deffinetly more weight on the battery side of the car so hopefully doing so will help balance out the cars weight distribution a bit more. Setting the tweek on the car will cure it but i have noticed that there is more pre load on my left rear shock than on the right rear.

Blake
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